Burning up bravo 3 impellers

thumpar

Admiral
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
6,138
How does the inside of the impeller housing look? Mine is the plastic type and was all pitted on the back side.
 

Fun Times

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
9,257
Actually I'm not really surprised as I've personally noticed no water supply to the impeller on the B-3's in the past when someone else has installed the flushing device (muffs) for me and I have read many times on the forums that members have had a difficult time with getting water to the impeller especially after doing a new impeller on B-3's mostly. Some members have had to "prime" the water hose between the transom and impeller housing. My fix to get water to the impeller was to remove the flushing device, trim the drive up and down 2 times to try and help purge any possible air in the water passage ways/hoses, then with the drive down, I made sure the flushing attachment was installed correctly....< Worked every single time.

B-1's that have dual water pick-ups (lower and side pick-ups) needs to have the lower pick-up hole blocked with duck tape, etc. or you'll suck air shortening the impellers life dramatically.

One of the most important things you need to ensure is done correctly in order to run an engine on the flushing device is to ensure the flushing attachments are installed as tightly as you can get them hugging the lower unit pick-up holes....The tighter the better. Also be sure to align the water hose fitting to the "center" of the intake pick-up holes for best water saturation throughout the drives water passages.

If the flushers are loose around the intake holes then just as you tested/experienced, the water won't be able to build up through the drive even if the impeller is trying to suck the water up due to the water volume just won't be there enough for the impeller suck it up. The impeller would only be sucking the air between the drive and pump. I've even had this same situation recently with a loose fitting flushing attachment on an Alpha Gen 2 drive. The impeller just wouldn't push the water to the engine until I tightened up the flushing attachment.

For the best tight fit, I recommend you buy quicksilver flushing kit part number 44357Q2. This design will let you push together a really tight fit on both sides of the drive giving you the most water available.

Don't be afraid to run the engine at home as long as you know you have a good tight fit and good enough water pressure which it looks like you do since you were able to squeeze together your flushing device and see water flowing up through the drive housing and out.

A quick tip for you when running the engine any time (home or lake) once you get to know your boat/impeller housing design/location, if you are able to carefully reach the backside of the impeller housing without touching the belt spinning, put your hand/fingers on both the sides and rear of the housing to see if you feel any heat at all...If you do then you are sucking air and need to shut it down and figure out why. The housing should be as cold as the water you are using while running.
Hope this helps get over the fear, good luck.
44357Q2,
223_M71044357Q2.jpg
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
When I picked it up they had told me that during the break in process, which I did not ask them to do, that they had noticed that it was running real hot and that they could smell rubber and hear some crackling noises coming from the bell housing area. .
I would say that these "mechanics" do not know what they are doing if they allowed the engine to overheat even a little bit.
 

MarkSee

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,172
Yeah they cover them completely but like I said I can't get the water to go all the way up the drive until I press on the muffs, otherwise most of the water just doesn't seem to enter the water inlets. I'm just as baffled as you guys are..



Are your muffs the ones Ft has in his attachment? If not, I strongly recommend you get a set of what he shows.
I used 2 other types of flushers that did not do a good job of sealing and I experienced what you did and that was resolved by using this set of FT muffs and making sure they are securely installed.

The one thing to watch for, and it happened only once, is that if there is too much water pressure, the adapter for the hose that goes into the device can come out thus leaving no water entering the drive.
Have another person just standing to the side of the boat watching for that is good insurance.

Mark
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,547
Not real sure because I have never put muffs on the drive to see if water would come out, but something doesn't sound right about that.

I have a other B3 on a stand and will try to see what happens with mine tomorrow

Well cannot say that anymore, but took my spare B3 and put the below style muffs on them
Photo991.jpg

For the test I used a 3/4 hose from a 4 foot frost proof hydrant on full. Water pressure around 85 psi.

Had a garden hose ball valve (cheap ones) on the end and the valve was attached to the muffs. The ball valve opening is about 1/4 inch, and there was a garden Y fitting with the same 1/4 hole feeding the hose. So my take it there is a 1/4 hole feeding the B3 drive.

Opened the valve just enough the hear the water hissing, about 1/8 turn. Nothing came out the top, appeared all leaked around the muffs.
Opened 1/4 way and started seeing water come out the top

Photo988.jpg

The more I opened the more came out. Here is full open

Photo989.jpg
 
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