Re: Burning wood with latex house paint?
dr b, how did you get the heat into the house? I've seen some of those setups that were insulated and burned oil or wood, stayed hot for ages and cycled the water thru radiators in the house.
If engineered well and built good they would seem to be a hot thing. (no pun intended)
my unit was in the house....in the basement is where it started...and thats where it worked best but I did move it upstair to the living room a year later and then i took it out and moved it to my shop as i moved...
Basically as J_Martin said I used PEX tubing (the blue color) 1/2in tubing...I went with a No Pressure system for safety reasons...there is NO need for a pressurized system unless you plan on having 200degree water temps and there is also NO need for water temps over 180degrees....
I made my unit using 2 sheets of 1/4 in steel and then I made a box within a box the front was the common wall of the boxes...there was 6inches between the tops of the boxes and 2inches around the rest...even the bottoms...the water filled the outer box and circulated the water via a small water circulation pump (80.00 at Menards)
I have several bungs welded to the lower and upper sides of the unit...the lower bung is where the pump and 4 port manifold hooks to and the top is where the 4 port return hooks to...
I had 4 zones (4 separate pex runs) that went to 4 different coils... and I used the AC condensers for cars/trucks that I robbed from the scrap yards...I used these in the beginning because they were readily available and built to handle 400psi so I know they wouldnt leak...even though I run no pressure....
I also welded a 6in 1/4 steel round pipe for the flue/stack and I used an automatic damper..these things are great...
now I did NOT line the inside of the unit with fire brick and the fire was built right in the steel...reason is brick robs the heat and there is no need for that...brick acts as an insulator and in a typical wood burner you'll want this to keep from getting teh steel too hot and warping and/or busting...but in my unit the steel doesnt get that hot as it is water cooled...
I divided the main box into 2 halves and I welded my own style grate in between the upper and lower doors...the top was used for larger whole logs and the bottom was for the starter wood...my theory was start a fire on the bottom and as in burns it will catch the wood on top and burn it all and it lasted about 4 hours...I could fit 3 logs on top as it was 20in x20in bottom was a tad smaller...also as the bottom burned you made a amber pile of hot coals and you get alot more radian heat from the hot coals than you do the actual fire at times....and as the top burnt it added to the coals...just give them a little stir once every hour or 2 and they burn to nothing...
I only had to clean ash once a week or so...and I only got a max of about 4 inches of ash...enough to fill a 5 gallon bucket and this was used for fertilizer known as pot ash...works well on the yard and the garden...so all is used...
Now I had a 12in x 12in box welded on top as a water fill point with an automatic water valve to keep the unit filled and when in use the steam coming off the water made a good natural humidifier...
I normally had a stack temp gauge and my stack temps just off the unit were about 450 degrees..this kept the water at 180 degrees very easy...so in the room you got a radiant heat off the unit which also warmed the house...the circulation pump was always on and I wired in a line switch from a line heater to control the furnace fans...I had 2 furnaces and 2 cores in each furnace...
I also used hot water heater control switches for safety switches...if by chance the water temp hit 185 degrees the switch would activate the line switch and turn the blowers on and relieve the heat....worked very well...
I tested teh unit to 210 degrees and it was way more heat then you could use...160degree water temps worked the best....used the least amount of wood and was easy to maintain....
My units fans ran 10 minutes on and 30 minutes off and this was at 0 degrees out side and the thermostat set at 74 degrees... and it ran on a wheel borrow amount of wood a day...very small amount...and when it was 20 degrees outside it used half that amount...
this was a 4,500 square foot home built in 1860 with double brick and no outside insulation...
Total cost involved...from buying the steel, all welding supplies, renting the lift and sleeving teh chimney (for safety) and all pex and plumbing supplies all installed and working.... $800.00 and I welded it myself and I am not a trained welder I am self taught....
I will say I could have gotten by with about half the size of this boiler...er I mean water heater...