Buyers beware

[docyg2000]

Ok, I did a dumb thing and did not look under the boat before purchase one because it was so cheap, 2 any, Got under it and saw the bottom of the hull was scraped up through gel coat and paint to the fiberglass. Yeah I know, but who does this. They used electric tape for rollers.

Will this effect the boats functionality, I hoping I can just put a keel guard on it.

 

[GA_Boater]

Ya better do something about the keel sitting on the crossmember. A keel guard won't last before it's worn through.

Where are the rollers and bunks?

 

[docyg2000]

I have no idea. But I plan on putting them on new bunks and rollers. Do you think the boat will ride ok, with the keel like that?

 

[gm280]

Seeing what you have, I would absolutely install a center "V" type roller there AND carpeted bunks and adjust the bunks and rollers to fit the boat. Then I would rework the bottom of the hull, If you wait, your boat will need so much more work then it needs presently. It doesn't take much to rub through the bottom like it is sitting. JMHO

 

[docyg2000]

Yes I will definitely install the rollers and bunks, I am not loading and unloading the boat at this time. Are you saying that more damage can happen with the boat just sitting the way it is and that I should install the rollers and bunks immediately, or could it wait until I get finished with the upper portion of the boat?

Also can you be a little more specific when you say rework the bottom?

Thanks

 

[briangcc]

Based on what we can see, the brackets for the rollers went clear through the gel coat and into the fiberglass. If left as is, the fiberglass will absorb water when the boat is launched and you're now in a world of more hurt.

Best advice is to get the boat supported correctly on the trailer and then start on repairs. From the looks of things you may be purchasing some fiberglass and resin...along with fairing compound and some sort of bottom paint or gelcoat. The guys and gals here are very knowledgeable and will point you in the right direction for repairs...should you deem the boat worth the effort its going to take.

 

[MTboatguy]

Do you have a way to lift the boat off the trailer? Such as a strap cradle?

Again as was stated, you will need to do some fiberglass work as well as fairing and paint to properly repair it, not difficult at all, but imperative, you don't want raw fiberglass exposed to water. It can absorb moisture just sitting raw such as it is right now. Right now it is not usable.

How is the rest of the boat? Floor solid? There are lots of people here that can help you along with the process and are more than willing to help you with information on how to do it properly.

 

[garbageguy]

Ouch! Seeing that little bit of the boat/trailer, wonder what else is going on with all of it.. You may want to assess the whole thing (paperwork too), and then decide what you want to do.
"2 any"? "Electric tape"?

 

[docyg2000]

I plan to be in it for the long haul. The floor seems pretty solid there is a soft spot in the deck. I've removed most the carpet that could get to. Some of the carpet I cant get to unless I take the cap off. I was planning on glassing in the floor so I'm happy to know I will also need to glass seal and paint underneath. Here are a couple pics.

It's an 88 Venture Stallion.

thanks for the replys.

​​​​​​​

 

[docyg2000]

Can I use a engine harness and an heavy duty strap to lift up the front end of the boat off the trailer. What's kind of cloth should I use on the bottom of the boat. According to the specs the boat weighs 750lb.

 

[Chris51280]

Best way to lift it is from underneath with a floor jack and a V-shaped support at the keel. You can put additional 2x6 on the bunks to have it at higher position on the trailer.
Once you have a soft spot, the rot is there from underneath. Once you lift up the floor and drill test holes, you will see. It appears solid but what you see is the fiberglass over the rotten wood. The boat is 31 years old and the way the keel looks like with the tape shows how much the owners took care of it. There is no such thing as good deals in old boats. You always spend more than what it is worth. Even free is still expensive.
To fix the keel, I have some spots too where the boat was beached and requires some repair.
Best way is to grind the loose fiberglass off and a little at the surrounding area. wipe down with acetone. depending how much was scraped off, you need to get fill the area up with csm and woven. Then fair it with. Fairing compound can be made out of resin, cabosil and glass bubbles. sand that down to shape the new keel then gelcoat. last coat should be waxed so you can sand again to blend in. There are videos on youtube that sho how to repair cracks and holes in fiberglass that should give you an idea. since you are doing the floor which I don;'t believe will be everything, you already get most of the materials anyways.

 

[Redtruck12]

Long haul sounds about right.
pretty much everyone who has been there will tell you “ the deck is the last thing to rot
likely transom first, stringers second.... then the decking.
expect the unexpected and once you get the decking up and core samples are taken of stringers and transom you’re going to have more to write about.

 

[docyg2000]

That doesn't sound good.

 

[docyg2000]

Ok I need to order glass and resin. Where do I begin. Should I use csm and 1708 or just csm. I found some 1.5oz CSM for .35 a yard is 1.5 strong enough?

 

[kcon]

Sorry to say it, but the guys above are probably right...dollars to donuts every bit of structural wood core in that boat are rotted out. You need to get a drill and drill into the lower part of the transom from the inside of the hull and check if that's rotted out. If there's a miracle and it's solid, you can shoot some marine epoxy in the hole and call it good. I wouldn't go ordering glass or resin just get until you know the scope of work by first removing the decking and grinding back bad glass, because odds are you'll need a LOT more glass and resin than you'll initially think you will.

If you're replacing structure, which the deck usually essentially is, you will need 1708 to tab it in. If you need to replace stringers, bulkheads, and transom...you'll need a lot of 1708.


My opinion, go get core samples of the transom and stringers before you do anything else, generally the lower the better...water rots boats from the bottom up.

 

[docyg2000]

Thanks, I moved the boat into the warehouse so I don't have to worry about it getting wet. Got most of the carpet out and kids removed. I will do the transom test and begin cutting this week. I will post pics and have questions next time up.

How big of a hole should I drill in the transom?

 

[MTboatguy]

Thanks, I moved the boat into the warehouse so I don't have to worry about it getting wet. Got most of the carpet out and kids removed. I will do the transom test and begin cutting this week. I will post pics and have questions next time up.

How big of a hole should I drill in the transom?

I normally use a 1/4" drill bit to test, others may go larger, but I have always been able t judge the wood quality with a 1/4", what you are looking for is firmness as well as evaluate the crumbs that come out with the drill bit when you are taking it back out. Be careful, you don't want to punch a hole in the hull.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ok I need to order glass and resin. Where do I begin. Should I use csm and 1708 or just csm. I found some 1.5oz CSM for .35 a yard is 1.5 strong enough?

first, you need to build a cradle, then cut out the rotten floor, etc.

from there you need to grind all the tabing

then you make your new structure

then you order your glass materials.

and CSM is just a primer (no strength) for the heavy cloth you will need the 1708 for strength. read the DIY stickies at the top of the forum. specifically links 14 in its entirety, link 18, then 2, 3, 4a, and 4b..... all the answers you need for restoration are in those links.

 

[docyg2000]

What's a cradle?

 

[Scott Danforth]

read link 14