Carb kit

JasonB

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I have picked up a used Holley 4bbl to replace the 2bbl on top of my Mercruiser/Ford 302, but I need to rebuild it. I can order the Sierra kit for this carb, but I'm wondering if Sierra does the same thing with this kit that they did with my Rochester 2GC. When I purchased the kit for it, it was the exact same box I could have gotten at the auto parts store for half the cost.<br /><br />The Holley is a 4160 family, and it originally came from a Mercruiser 255, Ford 351. The Sierra kit is 18-7096. Any ideas which Holley kit this would cross to (or really is)?
 

Don S

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Re: Carb kit

If you head over to www.holley.com and click on the "marine" link at the bottom of the page, you can find info on your carb and find the kit number and compare it to automotive kits.
 

Laddies

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Re: Carb kit

is's a model D2JL-9510E Holley NAPA kit number 2-5029, but with the model No. can be bought any where
 

JasonB

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Re: Carb kit

Thanks guys. That's the right carb Laddie. I had called Holly and they didn't have a specific kit listed for this carb and recommended a generic 4160 kit. The PDF of models on Holley's site doesn't list this one (maybe due to being marine?) The Holley# is 6576 for this carb.<br /><br />Looks like NAPA sells 25029 (called off as a 4150 kit?) for $29 with is $20 better than the sierra kit. I don't mind spending the money for the Sierra if there are differences, but I don't want to pay 2x the price for Sierra to put a stricker on a Holley or Motorcraft box.
 

Buttanic

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Re: Carb kit

Some of the Holly marine carbs use a different type float valve than the automotive carbs. The gaskets should be the same.
 

JasonB

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Re: Carb kit

Crud, I also need an electric choke conversion for this carba nd found out there is a slightly higher price marine version I will need to get...<br /><br />Laddie, not questioning you, but before I order one, that P# you gave is definetly for that carb? It was described on NAPA's site as for a 4150. I don't know the differences in Hoilley carbs enough to know if those carbs use the same kit, so just checking. If that is right, I'll swing by NAPA this week for one. Thanks.
 

mkast

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Re: Carb kit

I had three different Holley marine carbs to rebuild, different applications. I ordered all the Holley Rebuild Kits from Summit Racing, $20 to $26 each, and the kit was specific to the Holley marine carb.
 

JasonB

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Re: Carb kit

Just got off the phone with Holley Tech Support. Geez, leave it to me to have an oddball. They can give me specs on the carb, but said that they don't list a kit, possibly due to an agreement with the original engine builder. They can offer no info on any Holley branded kit that would work.....<br /><br />So I'm down to Laddie's part or a Sierra,AP, or GLM kit.<br /><br />They dis say that the less expensive choke kit is the proper one for this carb. The other I saw may be for a newer model?
 

Laddies

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Re: Carb kit

the number I gave you came from a old NAPA Marine Catalog fo a 255 mercuiser (Ford 351)
 

jonmurr

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Re: Carb kit

I ran into this on the 4160 Holley on my boat. My list number is a orginal Ford Marine part, thus the way Holley works, Ford was in charge of any and all service parts. They have been long discontinued, of course. The front float bowl is marine specific, along with very specific fuel metering block because of the J-type bowl vents. The way I went was, with the assumption front front needle and seat being OK, the other gaskets and rear needle and seat can come out of the appropriate generic Holley 4160 kit. The newest generation of Holley gaskets are great. Only took 45 years to come up with a fix. I told them I had a 4160 Holley with electric choke and I got what I needed. I stay away from Borg-Warner and Sierra kits. They have cruddy gaskets and a bad, cheapened needle and seat design that leaks.<br />good luck <br />Jon
 

JasonB

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Re: Carb kit

Thanks Jon. Unfortunately, the needles/seats are suspect. this thing was so varnished up that the jets are blocked solid with varnish. I'll have to soak everything in dip for a week to get it cleaned up right. Do you know if the needle/seat can be found in any other kit, or the P# of the Holley kit you used? There seems to be a countless number of 4160 kits.<br /><br />My leisurely carb rebuild of what I had assumed wuld be a fairly standard Holley has become a bit more involved, but then again, no boat project ever goes as expected.....
 

JasonB

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Re: Carb kit

Just got off the phone with my favorite Napa stor and they have the Echlin kit Laddie gave me the number for. Their system shows it to be for a 4150 as well. Do these cabs generally use the same parts? (Again, not questioning your info Laddie, just trying to learn more about carbs)
 

Laddies

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Re: Carb kit

more or less but the marine carb will ussally have a differant top gasket and differant jetting--Bob
 

jonmurr

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Re: Carb kit

The napa kit probably fits both. 4150 in Holley nomenclature means the carburator has two metering blocks, the things that hold the jets. 4160 carbs have no rear metering block, just a plate that fits<br />entirely inside the fuel bowl in the back. This makes the carb shorter, bur the only way to change the secondary metering is to change the whole plate. I have never even seen one purchased. Hold tight, my Holley catalog is at the house, will post back around 1800.<br />Jon
 

JasonB

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Re: Carb kit

The woman I spoke witha t Napa snickered when she saw the same kit is called out for some models of the Edsel....<br /><br />My book doesn't cover disassembly of this carb very well, does the back metering block just pry off like the front one?<br /><br />I only have $50 in this carb before rebuild so I figre it will be an ok deal even with the cost of rebuild and a new choke kit. Is the quality of the Napa\Echlin kits any better than the Sierra, or are they all the same? It is just over half the cost of the Sierra. I would prefer a Holley kit, but I really want to replace all needles/seats/gaskets/etc to make sure I don't have to do the job twice.<br /><br />Many thanks to both you guys.
 

jonmurr

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Re: Carb kit

I went home to check my notes and hey, we have the same list # carb. This makes it easier. The Holley kit # is 37-1542. This is called their "fast kit" or something. Its 19.95 at summitracing.com. It has everthing you need except for the secondary diaphram. It goes in the housing off to the side of the carb on the starboard side, the sqarish one with four screws. If the carb has been sitting long, it is suspect. You can take the lid off and make sure it is not torn or chrunchy. The lid will be a PITA to get back on. You will get used to it.<br />Last thing. My carb is wierd. The front fuel bowl is sealed, marine style (no external adjusting screw for float level) while the rear one is common Holley style with the large hex nut under a large slotted screw. My OMC parts book shows my Carb with normal float screws front and rear, while a current Holley Marine 600 has marine style float bowls (no external adjustment) front and rear! Exciting stuff. If your carb has marine float bowls, you also need needle and seat part # 6-511 they are 10 bucks and have a viton tip for better sealing. The regular needles are in the kit I mentioned earlier. The rear fuel bowl comes off just like the front one, it is probably glued on by the old gasket. Just beat with a rawhide mallet a little bit it will pop off. Get a gallon of CHEM-TOOL carb cleaner. disassemble. Soak offending parts in this stuff, for a while but as little as possible as it chews through the carb plating after a while. Scrape off the old, horrible gaskets with a plastic scraper or sharpened popsicle stick. Metal scrapers peel off the little sealing beads on the parts and fuel leaks are a serious bummer :eek: Once all parts are clean, take a straight edge and lay it across the main body where the fuel bowls sit and the base. Any banana-shaped main bodies will cause all sorts of wierd running problems. You can get these planed at a machine shop, if necessary, If you find a bunch of goo on the front metering block, soak that baby. Get a syringe and gently shoot carb cleaner into all the little holes and their are some in the main body, too. If they are all not clear, it will run wierd. When you reassemble, be easy on the torque. The carb screws don't hold the whole boat together. The sound of all 4 holes feeding your '02 the first time wiil be great.<br />Jon
 

nms1991

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Re: Carb kit

JasonB you may not want to hear this but you may want to look at getting a new carb if it is varnished that extensive and it needs a electric choke. the best prices I have seen are in Jegs or Summit catalogs.
 

JasonB

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Re: Carb kit

I appreciate the thought nms and I have wrestled it quite a bit, but I never do boat things the easy bolt on way. I'ts a hobby to make these things work. I think it is salvagable and I will have about $150-$175 in the carb itself. Edelbrocks at Jegs/Summit are $300 and I enjoy the challenge of rebuilding it.<br /><br />Jon, that secondary diaphram is toast. Looked like the last person installed it wrong. Do you know what part# replaces it?<br /><br />I'm not sure that I have the marine style bowls. I did some poking around at Holley's site. While this isn't the carb I have, the front bowl on mine looks identical to this one: Link to Holley carb except the fuel inlet is different. The rear bowl is identical except no accelerator pump. Sorry to be such a newb. Is the black object on the front bowl of this carb a float adjustment? Normal Auto 4160 <br /><br />I'm confident I can do the rebuild (I have a mechanic brother if I get in too deep) I just need some pointers in Holley Terminoligy :). I successfully rebuilter my existing Rochester 2GC last year...
 
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