Chrysler 105hp new owner questions .

[George Pan]

I found this Force 120hp engine . Is in sale for parts. Is this Power trim compatible ? Seller says that is 2001 year but i think is doing wrong. Is giving power trim for $500 with harness and relays . What do you think guys ? Is too pricey and risky ? Maybe to search for a CMC pt 130 used on ebay ?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Well, George: Since Mercury discontinued production in 1998, it can't very well be a 2001. As far as the power trim, it is difficult to tell from the photos. . If the power trim unit has a single cylinder it is not compatible. If it has a 5 sided trim cylinder, a tilt cylinder and a shock on the other side, it will bolt up to your engine. Looking at the photos again, the engine does have the Mercury style transom clamps but I can not see the power trim. However, If I were you I would NOT buy the engine or the power trim unit.

 

[George Pan]

No Title

Finally i found a bargain 200$ a power trim from Force 90hp . I check it with the battery and is working . Is seems to very good condintion .

Because is difficult to remove the engine . I deside to swap the hydraulic system to my Chrysler mounts. I try to remove the two main rods that they keep in place all the system but is stucked from the rust. I hit with the hammer but nothing happens . Do you have something to advice me ?

 

[Frank Acampora]

George: Hammering on the mounting rods does nothing but mess up the threads. Personally, I hate working on old power trim units because they are always stuck badly from corrosion. If you have time to work on it keep soaking the pieces in penetrating oil. Then, in between heat them--actually, as a last step heat the transom mounts to expand the aluminum and the holes. Then try to tap out the mounting bars. If you can remove the mounting assembly from the engine put it in a big press (6 tons or more) and try to press the bars out.

It will be a long frustrating job and I don't envy you.

 

[George Pan]

Frank do you think that is easier to remove the engine from the boat and just change all the system keeping Force main swivel bracket ?

 

[Frank Acampora]

That is difficult to say. Even if you are able to swap, you will still have a tilt system with bound-up components. It really depends upon what tools you have and how much time is available.

 

[George Pan]

No Title

I finally manage took out the old rods . I use Chrysler rods and it seems ok .

 

[Frank Acampora]

The round black thing at the end of the trim ram is a wiper. (it looks black in the photo.) It keeps junk from getting in and damaging the sealing O-Ring inside the pentagon top. It would be best if you could push it back down into its seat and then "stake" it in by punching in three or four places.

 

[George Pan]

Thanks Frank i fix it !!!!

2 questions

1) two times the engine died during normal cruising at 3200-3800 rpm . (Tank is always full ). After this was difficult to start again the engine and if i was try to push the throttle dies again . After several times of start up is ok and if i push the throttle little harder and faster is working good again . This happened 2 times at first 50 hours. Maybe spark plugs ? but at cruising is weird

2) I could not found L20V but i manage to find L76V is ok to use them ?

 

[George Pan]

I am searching the problem these days . Do you think is any part to clean at my electronics ? Like distributor or something else ?

 

[Charlie75]

Well I'm not the greatest of all experts here, but we have had similar symptoms over the years, and to me this seems like a typical bad CDI powerpack case.

 

[George Pan]

The weird is that my engine is brand new . i have done some hours for the break in . Is a long story but is true is a brand new Chrysler that i found stock from an old dealer here in Greece.

 

[Charlie75]

That's a gem you have there. Been dreaming of finding something like that myself.

New or old, the story tells that those magnapower units failed on regular basis and were actually shoveled away at workshops during the 70's and got replaced on warranty.

At fault, they can occasionally work fine, and then suddenly just die, and then work fine again.

CDI Electronics manufacture an aftermarket substitute for the original Motorola unit.

However it is advisable to do some further researching before throwing away money on expensive parts.

 

[George Pan]

Do you think that is good to go for Automotive conversion ? I have seen and MSD streetfire that could work .


Something else is that today i put my hand at pipes of spark cables to the head engine , and i got hit from power , this happend to all the cables behind the plug .


Maybe i must change the spark cables first.

 

[Charlie75]

Honestly, if I were you, I would care for that motor and pamper it.

Have you checked the carb bowls for dirt? It can move around when you cruise, and cause occasional stalling.

Do not touch the high voltage cables when the motor is running! They transfer 30000 volts to the spark plugs. There is most certainly nothing wrong with them.

Auto conversion? Forget it! You would have to change your "brand new" optical preamp-distributor to some old points distributor...*

Streetfire? No thanks, if you ask me. Don't mess with a motor that nice and tidy.

Me? I would consider nothing but purchasing the CDI Electronics 115-3301. It comes together with a new coil and it mounts nicely on the same threads as the old Motorola pack. It's a clean and professional solution.*

I have this powerpack on one of my 75 HP's and it works perfectly.

Charlie

 

[George Pan]

You have right. I prefer Pnp solutions too.
I will check and the carbs .

I love the engine i have too much power with hice sound and feel . Specially with power trim now .

I am trying to find what happens because i have these symptoms from the first run.

I want to check the carbs and the timing ignition .

About the spark cables . At cars when you touch them you havent any problem.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Agree! Do not convert to MDS streetfire. It was an after market conversion to improve old style automotive ignition. You already have a capacitor discharge ignition and there will be no advantage. In fact, as stated above you will need to convert back to points.

To check the spark plug wires and boots, run the engine at night. If you see arcing at the boots or on the wires THEN they need replacing. If you do not see arcing then all are good. L76 V was the Mercury equivalent spark plug used in later model Force engines. It is acceptable to use them.

Stalling at cruise and hard starting really sounds like a fuel problem.The fuel pump diaphragm may be old and hardened from age or you may have a button valve problem inside the pump. If you have a quick-connect fuel fitting at the tank it may have a bad O-ring and be sucking air. You need to check the complete fuel system from tank to carbs.

 

[George Pan]

I have and a symptom that engine after 3000rpm doing like couch some times.

How easy to check my fuel pump ?

 

[George Pan]

I forgot something important to ask . I have the propeller from force 90hp 3 cylinders that i bought to swap the power trim .

Is aluminum but no part numbers . For sure is a little bit wider and smaller diameter from mine. I don,t if is the stock propeller. I will take some photos tomorrow. Do you know what diameter had force 90 from the factory?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Factory propellers were always 13 1/4 inch diameter in the 15, 17, 19, and 21 pitch. After market props ranged from 13 to 13 1/2 inch diameter. I do believe that some were slightly smaller, about 12 3/4 inch but I have never seen one. It doesn't mean they don't exist.