chrysler engine trouble

Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
6
i have a 1979 Chrysler 100hp and have converted it to auto ignition ie it doesn't have the magnapower ignition any longer heres my question the motor will start and run a lil bit and dies like its flooded out the carbs are clean compression it all good have good spark timing is good im at a lose because ive tried everything from adjusting the fuel air mixture needle valve,timing,new gas,idle adjustment I just don't know whats wrong with it... I am a certified machnic and can work on anything but im just plane stumped help me please
 
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
6
ok ive looked all over this fourm page and I still have no idea what is wrong with my motor the points are clean.. it idils ruff but smooths out after a couple of second.. when its put in to gear it boogs down and dies.. I have look all over the motor for a high speed mixture n have found nothing if I could get a reponse it would be great a place to start something anything cause its about to head to the scrap pile soon this has kept me from fishing already this year n most of last year.. someone help me !!!
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
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18,183
If it dies as you go faster it's not getting the fuel it needs.
Open the fuel pump and check the diaphragm.
No high speed mix.
Check the jet in the bottom of the carb.That's the only thing that controls high speed.
The air screw, set it at 1 and 1/4 turn out for initial adjusting.

The coil, what's the voltage in? What's the voltage out?
How hot is it getting? Too hot to leave your fingers on it?
If it's to hot to leave your fingers on it then it's bad.
 

Frank Acampora

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Jan 19, 2007
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12,004
If it dies as soon as you put it in gear, the idle speed is too low. Correct idle speed is 700-750 RPM in forward gear, in the water. You can try setting the idle speed to about 1000-1200 RPM in neutral, but because of variations in load, prop diameter, and pitch. it may not be correct in the water. It is always best to set idle speed in the water.

As far as the automotive coil ignition, it is alright, I have done a couple myself. However unless you get a high performance coil, plug voltage will be down around 10,000. The original factory ignition is at least double that. BTW: timing advance at wide open throttle should be 32 degrees advanced. 30 degrees is better if you are worried about fuel quality. and you will not even notice a drop in performance.

At the top of the page Go to my video about synchronizing timing and carbs
 
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
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6
I really appreciate everyones input give some time to get this all checked out.. the coil I have on it is a regular auto not a hp one. Do the spark plugs have to be changed because the Plugs are still the surface gap plugs in the motor.. the coil never really gets hot just warm to the touch I will reply back as I check on all the problems are solved.. thank you for all the imput
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
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Jan 19, 2007
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12,004
Yes, plugs should be changed to bent electrode plugs for best performance. Idle should improve with them because the auto coil simply does not produce enough power to reliably spark a surface gap plug--especially when they get a little fouled. Typically, an auto coil is rated to run at 9 volts. This is because when the auto engine is cranking, battery voltage drops to 9. There is a special circuit in autos (way old school) so that after the engine starts, voltage flows through a resistor and the 12 volts battery is dropped to 9 at the coil. Now, if your coil is not getting hot, then there is no real need to put a resistor in line.

As for plugs, I suspect that the OMC QL77 plug might be a good choice. Not sure because I haven't done a standard ignition engine in years
 

Nordin

Commander
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Jun 12, 2010
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2,684
Yes you have to use regular bent electrode plugs because a battery ignition system (auto typ) only produce about 10-15000 volts from the ignitioncoil.

A CD system produce about 25-30000 volts and the surface gap plugs need a higher voltage to produce a spark.
To the old 3 and 4 cyl. Chryslers with battery system with distributor 1967 and older the factory suggested Champion J4J.

Soo try them or equal from another brand. I think NGK B6HS or B7HS.
 
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
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6
I will go out today and get the plugs n see what it does n gap the point to .009 or.010 then retime it an see how it runs will report back when I get a chance to work on it this weekend sometime
 
Joined
Mar 17, 2015
Messages
6
Thanks for everyones input the motor runs great.. the engine was a lil out of time fixed.. spark plugs changed... new coil installed with a resistor that is external and wired correctly. HHopefully I wont have anymore issues out of the motor for awhile and get some great fishing this year if anyone would like to see pics of the fish we catch or of the motor let me know id be glad to share..thanks again you guys help alot of ppl n from a disabled veteran it means alot.. if the tread must be closed then please do so
 
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