Chugger boat finally starting construction

[kcassells]

Is smell overthinkin…. Sand off the woods, wipe off with acetone, clear off dust boogies and saturate the woods with eeepppoxyy let it set in and dry.
That stuff not's not cheap but its no dif than a coat of eeepppoooxxxyyy. Just gets interjected into crap wood as a cheap fix.
C'mon zool take this one over. This one has your name all over it.

 

[zool]

Skip the cpes, diluted epoxy just reduces it effectiveness,and chemically changes its composition.....full strength epoxy is the only way to go.....all in all, thinned resin will only penetrate a minute amount, epoxy is a sealer, to encapsulate, so thinning reduces the encapsulation.

Epoxy resin and 4-6 oz cloth is all u need, the thinner the cloth, the easier to drape, and wet out.

 

[matt167]

So here I think is my plan. 1700 biaxial cloth on the entire boat Bottom. To the cabin. So complete bow and transom. With epoxy. Then tape the edges with same fabric. Coat the cabin top with epoxy and tab the inside floor. Then paint everything with some
So here I think is my plan. 1700 biaxial cloth on the entire boat Bottom. To the cabin. So complete bow and transom. With epoxy. Then tape the edges with same fabric. Coat the cabin top with epoxy and tab the inside floor. Then paint everything with something like awlgrip 545 and then the Rust-Oleum

 

[zool]

545 under rustoleum is a waste of money....you can just use Rustos primer, like clean, metal or such, which is formulated for under an Alkyd.

You dont need an epoxy primer for over epoxy, 545 is made for under Linear Polys and Acryic Urethanes.

Also, keep in mind that fairing over 1700 is alot harder than fairing over 6oz eglass.

Whatever you choose, ill enjoy following along, that little chugger is neat!

 

[sphelps]

You could if you want warm the epoxy in some hot water. That will make it a thinner viscosity and maybe penetrate the wood better ...

 

[matt167]

I guess I'll use 6oz cloth.. Any guesses as to how much epoxy? I have a 16' by 65" bottom, and the sides are 24", at least to where I will 'glass to. so, 150ish square feet of cloth

 

[zool]

You will likely use less than a gallon to wet the cloth, but you will need more for thickening to fill in screw dents and to make a fairing mix.

The way I always approach it is to get a 2 gallon kit from USC of laminating resin at 3:1. (its cost effective that way) at $128.00 including hardener. No Hazmat shipping surcharge for epoxy. They also have E-glass in the 6-9 oz +/- range and various fillers.

Iboats has resin too, But I havent tried it yet.

 

[matt167]

I always use USC for glass supplies, although I normally go poly.

Will the 7.5 oz E cloth work well?

 

[zool]

Yup, its just a little stiffer to drape over the edges. You can always tape the edges with lighter stuff, then butt joint the heavier cloth to the edge, Doubling the edges helps further protect them from scraping.

 

[matt167]

I have a little Glen L drift pram I partially built a few years ago. screwed up and did not put the seat boxes in place during construction which slightly changed shape of the hull ( S&G construction ) where they will not fit .. I'll probably figure out some seat boxes out of cardboard and fiberglass them in, and frame them with douglas fir. That boat was done with poly

I was searching Glen L's stuff and notice they have 60" wide glass cloth, and 6oz tape. So I may purchase their cloths.

 

[kcassells]

I'll bet you can just cut the tape off the roll you are ordering and save $$. Did you check us comp? for comparison?

 

[matt167]

I looked at USC wrong. they have 60" cloth at half the cost. I could order 5 or so yards of lighter eglass to cut into tape.. I think 12 yards of 6oz will work for overall coverage

 

[matt167]

More work tonight.

The stood up side/ frame is the first one done, now both are complete. This week, I will go 3D with it

 

[kcassells]

Hey thats' got to be exciting!

 

[matt167]

Had to wait to get an extra set of hands, so that I could put it together square. It needs all the framing in the cabin done, and a couple bulkheads on the bottom to square it completely.

 

[matt167]

Little more done

 

[matt167]

where to mount anchor light on new build?

I'm curious where to mount my anchor light on the boat I'm building. It's a cabin cruiser where the cabin stands 2' above the gunwales. I'm putting the acrylic windshield from a 60's runabout on it, so the cabin roof might not be a good place.

how high does it need to be over the cabin/ structures? is it just as long as it is visible from the 360*? This boat will be anchored at night and I plan to cruise the Erie canal next summer with it

 

[GA_Boater]

On top of the cabin, higher than the windshield and you standing behind the W/S.

 

[dingbat]

First boat was an I/O and the light socket was mounted on the transom. Light was on a 36” or so removable mast.

Next boat was an outboard. The mount was integrated into the top of the windshield from with an 18” removable mask.

Current boat has a 18”, fold down mast mounted on top the hardtop. Perfect location

Remember, unless you mount it above your head, you will have to deal with light in your eyes. A mast mounted shade helps, but not really

 

[alldodge]

Maybe a split light, one on the windshield that is a combo which can be switched from only forward to all around, and have a stern light