Cold weather use.

[Rranger]

I have a 5.7 L with a closed cooling system and a 25 hp outboard kicker. I plan on fishing later this fall in possibly freezing weather. My concern is when I pull the boat out of the water do I do the following.
1) Put both outdrive and outboard in the full down position and allow to drain ? Turn over both engines without starting to empty out impellers ?
2) Drain manifolds, I installed quick drains on the stern sides at the lowest point.
3) Do I need to drain the fresh water supply line from the impeller to the engine?
Am I missing anything?
For what it's worth it's all inland fresh water fishing.
Thanks for any pointers, tips.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yes, you should drain the raw water line from transom shield

 

[airshot]

Your OB should drain by itself when upright, it is only the I/O you need to worry about. I am in the same situation you are, I boat into November so some freezing weather at night is expected. I have made up a twin light bulb harness that allows one 100 watt light bulb on each side of my engine block inside the doghouse. At first I used a thermometer to be safe but found that the block will stay around 55 degrees when the outside temp drops to 25 degrees. Yes there is a slight gamble as to whether the electricity may go out or the bulbs could burn out but that is a gamble I take. So far no issues, but I do use good quality light bulbs and if the power does go out I know it from the house and will get up to take necessary steps.

 

[fishrdan]

I also boat/fish all winter long and what I do is, pull up the ramp a bit, open the engine hatch, open the block, manifold and riser drains, pull the lower water pump hose and remove the garboard drain on the transom. (Where I fish, it's pretty much dead in the winter, so I can monkey around on the ramp without inconveniencing anyone.) I pull into the parking lot and stow everything from the trip, then the last thing I do is close the drains, clamp the lower water pump hose back in place, lower the drive to let it drain, then raise the drive and put the drive clips on.

If you have an oil cooler, that needs to be drained also.

I wouldn't turn the engine over to try and clear water out, if it fires and the impeller runs dry it could ruin the impeller.

 

[JoLin]

I don't run mine again after winteriziing, but I turn the engines over a couple of revolutions to drain the circulating pump. Disconnect the coil wire to the distributor beforehand, and it can't start accidentally.

 

[Bondo]

I don't run mine again after winteriziing, but I turn the engines over a couple of revolutions to drain the circulating pump. Disconnect the coil wire to the distributor beforehand, and it can't start accidentally.

Ayuh,... That's why I pull the Big hose of the circulatin' water pump,....

Rranger don't have that problem though,....

Everything in the drive will self-drain in the down position,....
The in-comin' water line, through the P/S cooler has to be drained,....
The raw water side of the heat exchanger of course,....
And the exhaust, where ever the raw water exits through,....

I don't like any sorta "Quick Drains", as if ya ain't pullin' the plug outa the castin', 'n pokin' the crud outa the holes in the castin',...
Ya ain't really drained anything,....
Ya still have a 50/ 50 chance of freeze bustin' the castin's,....

 

[thumpar]

I take the intake and output hose from my impeller housing and put lanyard switch in off to turn the motor over just to make sure there is no water between the fins. Since you have closed cooling you don't have to worry about the block. I would make sure the coolant is mixed properly though.

 

[stonyloam]

If it is closed cooling you need to drain the seawater side of the heat exchanger (guessing yhere should be a plug on the underside), and make sure the power steering and oil coolers drain (if you have them). Drain the manifolds unless you have a full closed system (antifreeze cooled manifolds).