Are you doing the new motor breakin oils and stuff, I lived in florida, how can you guys go miles off shore with one old out board, do you have towing insurance, We both know how fast it can bad out there.
To be honest I am not sure how he honed the cylinders they came back very smooth and shiny. I could not see any obvious honing marks. This guy was referred to me by our largest boat shop in town. They send all their machine work to him and I drove 2 hours to get it to him. I am assuming he knew what he was doing but we all know what happens when u assume. I have had the boat almost 8 years taking it out 1-3 times a week to fish plus some days of heavy use towing skiers etc. It is a 1979 motor so I am sure it has quite a few hours on it. By the way the one cylinder that was re bored is at 90 psi.. The two at about 110 are new pistons but the cylinders didn't need to be re bored. Having not done any machine work myself I am a little confused by the last 2 responses.
I may have gotten lost in the post but a couple of things:
If he honed the cylinders you WOULD be able to see an X pattern of uniform scratch marks running at about a 30 degree angle as referenced to the top of the piston assuming it were flat. If he put new rings on the new pistons used in the cylinders with no honing then there is nothing to seat them and they will probably leak due to the imperfections in the cylinder walls vs the new uniform rings.
I suppose I gave an inaccurate description. I did notice the x pattern uniform scratch marks.. They were so uniform it made the cylinders look cleaner and shinier if that makes sense.. Where as before you could notice some very light scuffing.. That is what got "cleaned up"
It felt smooth to touch but now that I am picturing it I did notice the x hatch honing marks but there were no places I could catch a nail over. I shouldn't have said I couldn't tell it was honed because I could tell. Sorry for my confusion
It felt smooth to touch but now that I am picturing it I did notice the x hatch honing marks but there were no places I could catch a nail over. I shouldn't have said I couldn't tell it was honed because I could tell. Sorry for my confusion
Then they were honed and new rings should seat. Give them a little time. Some engines who knows where in function...cars, boats, motorcycles.....have tin plating on the rings so that a break in period is not required....like your car. Used to be you had to "break in" an engine for the first 500 miles meaning that you babied it and slowly worked it into full performance. Heck, back in the days of solid lifters, you had to bring your car back in for the valves to be adjusted.....'64 Rambler American (don't know what kind of lifter but adjustment was part of the warranty) and '77 Toyota Silica 20R over head cam engine for a couple of examples.
strange post? its got me a little confused on whats new and whats used? whats been bored and what just got tha hone?... a cross hatch ona steel sleeve motor will not go away on tha cylinders until its completely wore out.... unless ya BORE (by a good machinist) every hole and replace with NEW pistons and rings, straignten tha heads, deck tha block
ya not gonna get a close ta even comp across tha board "usually" when dealin' with an older, high hour motor
"a cross hatch ona steel sleeve motor will not go away on tha cylinders until its completely wore out.".... let me qualify this a little bit...
if its been done with a proper hone and not a drill motor... normally a piston will cry "uncle" long before it goes away
strange post? its got me a little confused on whats new and whats used? whats been bored and what just got tha hone?... a cross hatch ona steel sleeve motor will not go away on tha cylinders until its completely wore out.... unless ya BORE (by a good machinist) every hole and replace with NEW pistons and rings, straignten tha heads, deck tha block
ya not gonna get a close ta even comp across tha board "usually" when dealin' with an older, high hour motor
"a cross hatch ona steel sleeve motor will not go away on tha cylinders until its completely wore out.".... let me qualify this a little bit...
if its been done with a proper hone and not a drill motor... normally a piston will cry "uncle" long before it goes away
Glad you clarified that. Completely disappearing is one thing. Being able to easily detect their presence via visual and feel on a new hone is something else. And age visibility is usually in the areas where minimum ring contact occurs. Cast iron liners in an aluminum block and a cast iron block are both cast iron and exhibit the same properties with respect to hone marks.....at least when I had my butt up in the air digging into one.
