Correct Starcraft rivets?

[starcraftkid]

I don't leave any of my boats in the water, but when they are in the water, its for 12 or more hours at a time several times a week.
All I really have around me is saltwater, you can't run a gas motor here in freshwater, so that's not much fun, so I favor the saltwater, especially since I mainly use my boat to fish. I'm always building my next boat, if I really like it when its done, I keep it, if not I move on to the next and try something else.

What's surprising me the most is that there's no way to actually call Starcraft or any of the other manufacturers for that matter, the best I could find was an old number for Smokercraft that didn't get any reply so far. Calling a dealer got me nowhere.

In reality, any rivet would probably be fine strength wise, I just don't want a boat that I can't sell later because its got a bunch of odd looking rivets on it.
The average buyer won't go near anything thats been worked on in any way, especially around saltwater. I'd be a bit leery myself if I found a boat for sale with a bunch of mismatched rivets all over.

 

[Snde]

You should never use rivets from the hardware store on your aluminum boat. your boat is likely 5052 which is a good quality aluminum for salt water, you should not mix aluminum types "unless they are compatible" especially in salt water. You can use 1100 which is a soft non structural aluminum, for structural you can use 5052 or 5056 these do not require annealing"(heating in a furnace to achieve full hardness)" . the rivet you need will end in B like MS20470B6-6 it is a universal head which is similar to the structural rivets along the side of the hull and it is 3/16 shaft diameter by 3/8 long.
You should use the brazing head on the bottom of the hull as it has less resistance in the water counter sunk would be best but much harder to install as you would need a special tool. you will not need any epoxy or sealant just make sure your surface is clean and flat.


8gal compressor at walmart for 135ish Briggs and Stratton
impact hammer medium with control triger like the small one from home depot, I think it was $25ish hose was $20 dewalt,
a 2 pound hammer will work as a bucking bar but a bucking bar is better "control".
any Pneumatic Air Rivet Hammer Set "Bits"


MS20470B6-6
MS20470 = universal head
B = 5056
6-6 = 3/16 - 3/8

Where to buy:
for the bottom of hull I recommend Brazier Head Solid Aluminum 3/16 by 3/8 long these are 5056 :
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Bra...vets-s/693.htm
bottom keel you will need 3/16 by 1/2 long, gives you a little extra if the hole is a little to large also

for the seams I recommend the universal head as it will look similar to the OEM rivets on the seams, these rivets could be use on the bottom of hull as well because the resistance difference is likely negligible, I spent the extra cash, plus I have extra rivets now.
https://military-fasteners.com/rivet...ts/ms20470b6-8
https://military-fasteners.com/rivet...ts/ms20470b6-6


If you use hardware store pop rivets on your hull in salt water with or without epoxy, you can expect to replace them every year or two and it will damage your hull from all the drilling and oxidation . you will also need a decent bulge pump. you can get 5052 blind rivets but they are hollow.

source:
http://www.flight-mechanic.com/aircr...vets-part-one/
http://www.flight-mechanic.com/aircr...vets-part-two/
http://www.flight-mechanic.com/aircr...ts-part-three/

I am pretty sure I have a Seafarer

 

[Snde]

5052 and 5056,