Couple questions about winterization..

[lrdchaos]

I have a new to me 350 mag with Bravo 3 outdrive and will be completing my 1st winterization. Couple questions….

When changing gear lube, I understand you take the cap off the monitor bottle, then pull the 2 screws on the outdrive to drain. When filling, I know I wait to see oil come out of the vent screw then I put the screw back in. At this point to I keep pumping fluid in until oil back fills the bottle?
I just had the cone clutch replaced and new oil added, so the new oil will have 10 or so hours on it. Would you change oil with only 10 hours?



Next when fogging the cylinders they recommend running 2 cycle fuel through the engine. If I can’t do that, can I stabilize the fuel, pull each spark plug, squirt fogging oil in to each cylinder, put the plugs back in, then turn the engine over without starting? Will that essentially fog the engine?

 

[Bt Doctur]

not exactly, if carb`d just spray fogging in thru the carb, EFI and MPI should run the mix . Aside from the rings it protects the valves with a coating of preservitive
And you also have to drain the block if rwc and the raw water side of the heat exchanger if fwc and maybe the elbows.
If you think you have the quick drain system think again. That has led to more cracked blocks and manifolds.

 

[lrdchaos]

not exactly, if carb`d just spray fogging in thru the carb, EFI and MPI should run the mix . Aside from the rings it protects the valves with a coating of preservitive
And you also have to drain the block if rwc and the raw water side of the heat exchanger if fwc and maybe the elbows.
If you think you have the quick drain system think again. That has led to more cracked blocks and manifolds.

I have a 5 point drain system and will drain the block and fill with antifreeze through the hoses until I see antifreeze coming out of the exhaust and outdrive.

I would assume with the cool fuel module, I could pull drain some fuel out and refill with 2 cycle then just run the engine until the fuel works it’s way into the engine.

 

[Cortes100]

I did not have the cool fuel thingy, but if you can introduce the 2 stroke oil that way, it should work. With my 4.5L, I mixed up the cocktail in a jug and pulled the main fuel feed line off the tank, stuck it in the jug. It don't take much fuel when idling for 10 minutes.
I wouldn't changed the gear oil with only 10 hours. I'd pull the bottom plug, drain out an ounce to make sure it's clear.

 

[poconojoe]

I don't know if I've been doing it wrong, but once the lube comes out of the (top) vent hole, I stop. Then I top off the reservoir from inside the boat. While boating, I always check the level of the reservoir and always keep a bottle in the boat.

 

[Lou C]

If you are back filling with AF:
1) you’ll need a lot even my little 4.3 takes 4.5 or so gallons
2) if you are in a cold region I would not use -50 or -60 I have used -100 or, if you can find it, Sierra PG antifreeze mixed up 50/50 with water. -50 or -60 get hard at a few degrees above zero but do not expand. I’m not comfortable with that in a cast iron engine.
3) after complete draining and poking the holes, disconnect the bottom end of the big hose on the circulating pump. Drain and reconnect it. Then disconnect the top end of that hose. Now fill the engine from the top end of that hose till the AF spurts out of the thermostat housing neck. No need to pull thermostat housing. Reconnect hose; engine is done. Fill each manifold via the feed hose the same way, till AF runs out the exhaust. Now done. Lastly you have to disconnect the hoses at any fuel coolers or p/s coolers to make sure they drain and then reconnect the hoses. Since they are usually in line with the raw water intake hose I like to first put the drive down then disconnect that hose at the thermostat housing hold it up and fill with AF till the AF runs out the outdrive water intakes.

 

[H20Rat]

Never understood why someone would run a 2 stroke mix through a 4 stroke engine. Ever see what happens to mixed fuel when the gas evaporates? You end up with an oily, goopy mess. Nothing in a 4 stroke fuel system will benefit by having oil in it, but it is an easy way to make sure you have to change plugs far more often than required.

Fog if you want, but on most 4 strokes, that is optional. I've owned 4 stroke power toys/lawn equipment for 35+ years, and can count on 1 hand the number of times I've fogged a 4 stroke engine.

(I'm in a relatively low humidity area also, so your mileage may vary)

 

[Lou C]

I would (and do) fog a 4 stroke carbed engine it is humid here all year and the engine spring & fall may be covered in condensed moisture due to humidity and day/night temperature swings. But use fogging oil which is made for this purpose.

I would follow what the manufacturer advises for any fuel injected 4 stroke.