Dead in the water

[mpdive]

Re: Dead in the water

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the line from the pump to the carb should be an all steel line. At least that's what I was told.

 

[paultjohnson]

Re: Dead in the water

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the line from the pump to the carb should be an all steel line. At least that's what I was told.

You are correct , sir ! From the gas tank to the fuel pump, there is more of a vacuum on the fuel line, so if those hoses leak, it wont spray fuel all over. more like a few drips. There is also protection from the anti-siphon valve on the fuel tank. Now between the fuel pump and the carb, there is pressure, not vacuum, so if that section has a rubber hose, and it sprung a leak, fuel could spray all over the place, and ya could get all blowed/burned up:facepalm:

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Dead in the water

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the line from the pump to the carb should be an all steel line. At least that's what I was told.

That's a common misconception - I thought that for years myself. But the regs allow rubber line - specifically type A1 - from the pump to the carb. Using the appropriate fittings of course.

But with the original poster's set up, it sounds like someone jury rigged the line and simply cut the metal line and added a rubber hose to it. That would be a no-no.

I would suggest doing what you have planned with the fuel water separator and then buying some metal fuel line from the local auto parts store and bending it to fit from the pump to the carb.

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Dead in the water

I had the same engine in my boat - here's where I installed the fuel water separator - it bolts to the side of the block. Note the metal line and the clear line to the carb.

Here's the pump. The left barb is the inlet from the separator. The right barb is the clear overflow to the carb, while the flare fitting is for the fuel line to the carb.

 

[Oshkosh1]

Re: Dead in the water

Where did you get the new pump?

Can I/Should I retro-fit a new electric one?

Also...There currently is no clear line from the pump to the carb. I will add one when the new carb gets here, where does it fit on?

Did you have to fabricate a custom plate to mount the filter assembly to the block?

Can I use steel brake line to fabricate a fuel line?

Thanks

 

[oops!]

Re: Dead in the water

no....that is a proper marine fuel pump with seperator...

the clear line is if the pump gors...the gas will dump into the carb....causing you to flood. this is better than dripping gas in the bilge.

the clear line goes from a factory outlett above the diaprham to the carb....(also marine, not auto)...the carb has a fitting for this hose.

the reason the line is clear....is so that when you see gas flowing thru it....that means your fuel pump is shot and should be repalced.

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Dead in the water

Where did you get the new pump?

I believe I got it here. But you can try here on Iboats as well. If I am not mistaken, it is the same pump as a 3 liter.

Can I/Should I retro-fit a new electric one?

You can, but a mechanical pump works well and is more dependable in my opinion.

Also...There currently is no clear line from the pump to the carb. I will add one when the new carb gets here, where does it fit on?

Put it on the barb pictured here:

Here's where the various parts go:

Did you have to fabricate a custom plate to mount the filter assembly to the block?

I think I used some plate aluminum I had laying around. But you can use whatever is handy. I took advantage of the three threaded holes in the side of the block - you can see them pictured here:

Can I use steel brake line to fabricate a fuel line?

Sure - brake and fuel line is the same - you will want the 3/8ths line, but I suppose 5/16ths would work as well.

 

[Oshkosh1]

Re: Dead in the water

Great pics...Thanks!


Currently, the barb in which the clear tubing is supposed to attach to is connected to the valve cover fitting which you have vented with the copper tubing/hose setup attached to the flame arrestor on top of the carb. Is this fitting on the VC some sort of PCV?

I will also fab some sort of a bracket to attach to the block...great idea!

I'm new to the I6...seems like a solid motor so any good advice/tips unique to it are appreciated.

 

[boattoy]

Re: Dead in the water

go to airtex website. they supply all the fuel pumps for most boats. Look under the other section i believe. they list all their marine stuff by motor. the pumps can be bought at a local o reilly or auto zone(special order) with a one year warranty!

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Dead in the water

Currently, the barb in which the clear tubing is supposed to attach to is connected to the valve cover fitting which you have vented with the copper tubing/hose setup attached to the flame arrestor on top of the carb. Is this fitting on the VC some sort of PCV?

What's interesting is I believe originally the setup was as you describe. The old original fuel pumps did not have a tube. That safety feature came later. The copper tube / hose arrangement is something I put together. My 3 liter had a similar arrangement attached to the flame arrester, and I just copied with parts I have laying around. Even the chrome / stainless piece attached to the flame arrester I believe is an old door striker plate that I cut and bent then soldered the copper onto.
Ya' gotta' do what ya' gotta' do!

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Dead in the water

Here's the post where I received the info on how and where to attach the vent line(s). Click here to see the old post.

 

[Oshkosh1]

Re: Dead in the water

While the boat's in "dry dock"...I thought I'd check the trim pump fluid level. What is the procedure. It's an 85 Wellcraft. I've got two dash mounted rocker switches...one labeled "Trim", the other "Tilt". If I open it to check/top off do I need to completely bleed the system. There's no issues currently besides a bad electrical connection which does not allow me to raise the unit using the "Trim" button...I must use the "Tilt" which I assume does the same thing.

As an aside...

Tell me if I have this right. When I winterize this motor(GM250), I DO NOT need to use any anti-freeze. As I understand it, I just need to open the petcock on the block, drain the exhaust manifold. Should I also disconnect the colant hoses?

Sorry for the ???'s...however the price for poor/lazy maintenance is too high in my opinion...comes from my aviation side I suppose!

Thanks again

 

[Fishermark]

Re: Dead in the water

This has gone through quite a few diversions since it started!

It's probably better to start a new post with the other questions. On the trim pump, make sure the cylinders are completed compressed / down, then check and fill the fluid. No bleeding necessary. You can cycle them up and down a few times and then recheck if you want.