Dead on the water

[JASinIL2006]

I've found achris' video on removing an Alpha drive to be very helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3O63YTOhn8&feature=youtu.be

 

[redneck joe]

Update. Just went to the boat and got the drive off. Gimble bearing came with it. Took a bit more than i was expecting.....


So the outer metal band on the gimble was split and coming off. The bearing itself turned, didn t try to remove off the shaft. Spline teeth no damage a bit of shine in two spots. Water in bellows and on ujoint. Not sure what I'd be looking for to see a damaged coupler?


Side note, the rubber bushings on the trim rams have severe wear for a lightly used 3 year old sei unit.


Pics to come, until then any thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

Water in bellows and on ujoint.

Water in the bellows means the drive was coming loose of there is a leak in the boot. I thought you just have the boots replaced when the drive was installed?

Yes do have a close look at the coupler, it was in a bind I'm thinking

 

[redneck joe]

Had transom done last year. Is threre anything i can look for on the coupler without pulling motor or is that a necessary evil?

Btw no shaving when i completely drainedLU

 

[alldodge]

Look up inside at the coupler splines. Maybe put a bright light inside the boat behind the motor and then go outside and look in. Sounding to me the transom boys did the transom but didn't do the engine install correctly. Now it could be that part of the bearing came apart and this caused the u-joint or drive shaft to tear the boot.

 

[redneck joe]

They shop pulled the motor for a leak, and had it back maybe 5 time for a leak. Every time they 'fixed' it..


I took pic up inside on wifes phone I'll post up in the am.

 

[redneck joe]

Been doing a bunch of reading here on the forum about gimbles and couplers. Saw a couple mentions of noisy steering when all the way turned which I have had since I got it a few years ago I thought it was the power steering pump or something. Since I really didn'’t have much of any water time last year I cannot recall if it was doing that after the transom repair – but in any event if it had been out of alignment for a good amount of time even if done correctly after the transom repair (motor mount stringers replaced also) it is sounding more and more like that is the prob. Which killed the gimble.

Frustrating as I specifically asked the shop what should be done on an old bout with an unknown repair history while the motor was out. I guess the coupler isn'’t one of them, at least for my now former repair yard…

So my pics I took were pretty crappy – phone has a cracked lens (so do both my wife’s phone I must be really dam ugly) and my tablet has no flash so no inside pics. Couple things tho’

• To revise my initial look, it is not water that was in the bellows just oil and grease pooled up at the bottom. Didn’t think to touch it the other day but while I had my hand in there today did.
• The water on the ujoint was just a bit of condensation – should there be any? It was mid sixties overnight and when I pulled off it was about 80.
• Lots of rubber pieces – it’s pretty hard stuff almost felt texturally like rusted metal flakes (it’s not its black) so assuming it’s the rubber and got crunchy from the heat of the burn up?
• The teeth look good on the spline (pic in a few) and in the coupler so hoping all the noise was just the gimble giving up the ghost. Never had one go bad on me.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,........ Looks like a Severe lack of Grease,.....

The splines should be Slathered with grease,....
A lack of Grease will eat up a coupler, 'n shaft much quicker then bad alignment,.....

The gimbel bearin' is Supposed to stay in the housin', not come out with the drive's shaft,....

 

[redneck joe]

crap didn't even cross my mind of course it should have had grease all over it. I did no cleanup when I pulled - this was straight out


So - my shop killed my boat.



dammit

 

[alldodge]

Sure looks like it, real sorry

Will the gimbal bearing slide off easy or is it seized there?

 

[redneck joe]

Haven't tried yet. It spins that's as far as I've gone. I'm working on it at the storage a couple miles away, I took minimal tools with me.

Any tips? Don't want to jack the yoke.


In case you haven't figured it out, I'm not a wrench turner much but ain't stupid- this just is not my wheelhouse. I'd rather be building wood things and my day job dealing with data and people. Dammit I pay people to do a routine and basic thing and this is what I get. I've got vehicle people i trust but haven't found any bot people yet apparently.

 

[alldodge]

I know what you mean, I hate having to hire folks to do work for me, even the pros sometimes do a job worst then my grand kids would do. Having my Mom's bath redone now and I'm starting to get ticked off, but I'm digressing.

The bearing should be able to slide off with your hand, no pullers needed. Only thing holding it on the shaft are rubber O-rings. that said, you pulled it out when the drive was removed, that should not happen.

My guess is the shaft got real hot and about welded it self to the shaft.

 

[Bondo]

Any tips? Don't want to jack the yoke.

Ayuh,..... The bearin' is junk,.... get a block of hardwood, 'n a BFHammer, 'bout a 10# or 15#er oughta do,.....

Beat the bearin' off, 'n get yer service manager a call,....

Repacin' the bearin' probably ain't gonna be yer cup a tea,.... Ya still need more tools,....

Ya need to see whether the new bearin' is drive it in tight, 'n not wallowed out, loose,....
You'll need a bearin' drivin' tool, 'n an alignment tool, along with the hand tools you'd find in a $200. or $300. dollar craftsman hand tool sale kit,....

 

[redneck joe]

Thanks Bondo I?ll do that to start. I?ve got all hand tools I need (even a chunk of hardwood for taking out frustrations). I?m not afraid to dig in and have done many, many times over my 50 years on cars and boats and lawnmowers and motorcycles just not my cup of tea normally. In the past I had to because I?m a high school drop out never made much money (and an evil ex wife) but I make more cash now that I thought I ever would and can afford to pay someone, but obviously that is not a wise choice. Would have to get the alignment tool and the gimble tool for ~$200.


Three questions:

• How to definitively tell if a new gimble is loose? (waller?d out). Really don?t want to have to chase down a bellhousing unit.
• Is there a chance the coupler is good and just the gimbal is bad? How to tell? Prior to removing the outdrive it clicked easily forward and nothing in reverse like it is supposed to.
• Where do I find my serial # so I can order parts?

ok four questions - anyone got a link to building a rack for the sterndrive?

 

[alldodge]

How to definitively tell if a new gimbal is loose? (waller?d out). Really don?t want to have to chase down a bellhousing unit.

The gimbal bearing needs to fit in there tight, needs to be driven in. If it's scared up on the inside then it has been turning and assembly needs replaced.

Is there a chance the coupler is good and just the gimbal is bad? How to tell? Prior to removing the outdrive it clicked easily forward and nothing in reverse like it is supposed to.

If the splines of the coupler look good and the rubber around it looks smooth your probably ok

Where do I find my serial # so I can order parts?

Have a look here for serial number
http://?Where do I find my serial # so I can order parts?

Your drive parts list is here
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/260-1978-1982

Your motor is here
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/260-4-bbl-gm-350-v-8-1978-1982

 

[redneck joe]

Cant get first link to work

 

[alldodge]

Try this one
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...rcruier-stern-drive-and-engine-serial-numbers

If there is still trouble, go to adults only, then Merc section then
Where to Find Mercruiser Stern Drive and Engine serial numbers.

It the first one below

 

[redneck joe]

Yeah thanks always forget about the stickies here....

 

[JerryIrons]

Thanks Bondo I?ll do that to start. I?ve got all hand tools I need (even a chunk of hardwood for taking out frustrations). I?m not afraid to dig in and have done many, many times over my 50 years on cars and boats and lawnmowers and motorcycles just not my cup of tea normally. In the past I had to because I?m a high school drop out never made much money (and an evil ex wife) but I make more cash now that I thought I ever would and can afford to pay someone, but obviously that is not a wise choice. Would have to get the alignment tool and the gimble tool for ~$200.


Three questions:

• How to definitively tell if a new gimble is loose? (waller?d out). Really don?t want to have to chase down a bellhousing unit.
• Is there a chance the coupler is good and just the gimbal is bad? How to tell? Prior to removing the outdrive it clicked easily forward and nothing in reverse like it is supposed to.
• Where do I find my serial # so I can order parts?

Welcome to the club of working on your boat because you know the work is actually done correctly club. I've changed my gimbal bearing before, and what I can tell you is that thing is a tight fit, you have to drive it on with a hammer and driver if that helps. Also, when you change these things, you need a slide hammer to get the damn thing out, with several whacks. Seeing one come out with the drive to me sounds pretty unusual.

 

[redneck joe]

update;

Gimbal was essentially melted to the shaft and the coupler went bad. Spent few grand getting it right, feel very comfortable with my (new) shop. upgraded to a (used) Alpha 1 gimbal assembly

(thanks southkogs for the referral didn't use him but he referred me to a guy that used to work for him and opened his own shop)



so lets play a game.


Guess what is wrong with these pictures



new transom and engine stringers last year and if I haven't mentioned it the thing went back to the shop 6 times for leaks