Diesel to mate with Bravo

[TBarCYa]

It looks like I need to replace the 7.4L GenV in my boat and I'm debating going with a diesel instead of a long block replacement. Can anyone point me to a source of info for a swap like this? I know it's not going to be easy but I already have to replace the wiring harness and everything anyway so I might as well weigh all options.

Thanks.

 

[Bondo]

and I'm debating going with a diesel instead of a long block replacement. Can anyone point me to a source of info for a swap like this?

Ayuh,..... Here's a Start,.....

 

[TBarCYa]

Never thought of that....

 

[Scott Danforth]

Duramax conversion https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...isation-3.html

 

[Scott Danforth]

However rebuilding the long block can be done for a cheap amount if you want to keep the power stock.

 

[TBarCYa]

However rebuilding the long block can be done for a cheap amount if you want to keep the power stock.

Yeah, I still haven't gotten far enough along to decide what I want to do. The rebuild would be cheapest but buying a rebuilt long block would be easiest. Converting to a diesel would be really cool (and safer than gasoline) but installing an engine bracket and a pair of outboards would be most appropriate for where I'll use it. Of course a pair of 200hp outboards is financially out of reach.

 

[Scott Danforth]

for about $3k you can build a 450hp motor easy.

why do you think you need to rebuild your motor?

 

[TBarCYa]

for about $3k you can build a 450hp motor easy.

why do you think you need to rebuild your motor?

I haven't even seen the 400hp long block for $3k. You must know some people.

The boat had a fire while on the lift and the fire department filled it with water. The previous owner left the water in the hull for 6 weeks before pulling the plug. I know that the crank turns and I was able to get the water / oil / sludge out but I don't have high hopes that the engine can be saved. After 6 weeks under water and probably 6 months with water in the engine (from the fire until I pumped it all out) I'm guessing the crank is rusty and will eat the bearings as soon as I try to crank it.

So, if you can PM me any details on that 450hp engine for $3k I'd really appreciate it.

 

[alldodge]

Scott's talking about building it your self for that much. Just finish the build on his motor

 

[Scott Danforth]

I haven't even seen the 400hp long block for $3k. You must know some people.

The boat had a fire while on the lift and the fire department filled it with water. The previous owner left the water in the hull for 6 weeks before pulling the plug. I know that the crank turns and I was able to get the water / oil / sludge out but I don't have high hopes that the engine can be saved. After 6 weeks under water and probably 6 months with water in the engine (from the fire until I pumped it all out) I'm guessing the crank is rusty and will eat the bearings as soon as I try to crank it.

So, if you can PM me any details on that 450hp engine for $3k I'd really appreciate it.

i remember the thread https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...tdrives/10544592-water-in-the-engine-question

$3k assumes your core is useable. so $3400 in your case

for $3.4k

• go to car-part.com and get a complete running core 454 / 7.4 liter motor from a 1996-2000 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck. -$400 because yours is most likely junk from sitting
• Pull motor apart yourself to save shop labor
• buy solvent and clean most of the gunk from the parts you pull $20
• Buy set of rol-loc discs for air grinder $20 - polish combustion chambers on heads
• Buy set of tootsie rolls and polish exhaust ports into head up to valve area $20
• drop block and heads off at your local machine shop. $800 (Bake, line-hone, Bore/hone, deck, re-condition heads)
• Buy new damper $50 (Thru machine shop or shop yourself)
• buy new pistons/rings/pins $3-$400 (Thru machine shop or shop yourself)
• Buy new Clevite coated bearings $100 (Thru machine shop or shop yourself)
• Buy new fel-pro gaskets $200 (Thru machine shop or shop yourself)
• Buy new Melling oil pump and pickup $150 (thru machine shop or shop yourself)
• Buy new Comp Cams complete XM284-HR K-Kit K01-451-8 $960 (Thru machine shop or shop yourself)
• buy 2" phenolic spacer for your carb.
• clean up your existing intake manifold
• Buy rebuild kit for your carb $35

should be between 430 and 450 at crank with stock L29 crank, rods, block and heads. if you want more power, you need to invest in better heads, better rods and a better crank

If the machine shop says your crank is toast, then get a whole rotating assembly (pistons, crank and rods) at that point you can go with a 489 or 496 stroker. SCAT stroker kits for cast crank are about $1300 for complete kits. do not buy Eagle. forged kits are $2200

I spent much less on my long-block and have a bit more power, however I found some really good deals on parts like a set of merlin heads, complete new cam assembly, forged crank, etc. it also took me 2 years so far

your exhaust, etc should be useable as that doesnt care it was under water.. all your pulleys and accessory brackets should be usable.

if you need a new starter and alternator, ~ 140 thru DB Electric

 

[HT32BSX115]

Converting to a diesel would be really cool (and safer than gasoline) but installing an engine bracket and a pair of outboards would be most appropriate for where I'll use it. Of course a pair of 200hp outboards is financially out of reach.


The boat had a fire while on the lift and the fire department filled it with water. The previous owner left the water in the hull for 6 weeks before pulling the plug. I know that the crank turns and I was able to get the water / oil / sludge out but I don't have high hopes that the engine can be saved. After 6 weeks under water and probably 6 months with water in the engine

Couple of things I guess.......... If a pair of 200hp outboards are financially out of reach, a diesel that produces more than 400hp, marinization and a Bravo X drive probably is too.....

If the boat had water in the engine compartment + floor had water there for any length of time, there may be severe waterlogging + rot that could require removal of the floor to fix + rot in the transom, stringers and engine mount area.......If this is the '94 Proline in your sig, spending that kind of time and money on a nearly 25 year old boat might not be worth it......just another "IMHO" having been there and done that!!!

Cheers,

Rick

 

[TBarCYa]

Couple of things I guess.......... If a pair of 200hp outboards are financially out of reach, a diesel that produces more than 400hp, marinization and a Bravo X drive probably is too.....

One large expense of going with outboards is classing the large hole in the transom, which I wouldn't have to do if swapping in a Diesel and if I was going to do it, I would want to do a swap that can be done with the existing Bravo drive.

If the boat had water in the engine compartment + floor had water there for any length of time, there may be severe waterlogging + rot that could require removal of the floor to fix + rot in the transom, stringers and engine mount area.......If this is the '94 Proline in your sig, spending that kind of time and money on a nearly 25 year old boat might not be worth it......just another "IMHO" having been there and done that!!!

Try telling that to my wife! She's the one who insisted that we get into this thing. As far as the hull, according to Proline, there shouldn't be any wood in the hull to rot which is a good thing. The floor is solid and the stringers that I can access seem to be in good shape. So we'll see.

 

[alldodge]

The diesel will weight more then the gas so should get a few more HP. The 7.4L was 330HP (1050) and a TDI 4.2L 375HP (875) , and 3.0 at 260HP (675lb) so figuring straight swap, but any of the diesels are in the rank of 40+K

Maybe find a used or reman

 

[HT32BSX115]

Try telling that to my wife! She's the one who insisted that we get into this thing.

You have my kind of wife!!!!!:thumb::thumb: