digital meters

[midcarolina]

A meter will always work in all cases. A light would work if there was enough current to light the bulb.

Like I said, the OP has a meter. It's the better of the two tools.

In your opinion.........................

 

[bruceb58]

In your opinion.........................

With over 30 years of experience as an electrical engineer, yes...that's my opinion.

And one more thing...have a nice day!

 

[midcarolina]

Well......... I have over 30 years as a commercial HVAC service tech, Which means I have to make the stuff engineers draw up actually work...........:laugh:

Have a nice day too............

 

[sam am I]

Since we're not on the subject anymore, here are the fish du jour. Sry for crappy photo's, had to use my camera phone.





Tough catch today tho for big'ums, they are out deep now post spawn and more allusive. Maybe fished two hours casting into bank in riprap/lay down area's. Got one sorta nice one however, maybe 3 lbs wet. Used a crank bait(rattle trap) for these, love using cranks for smallies!!.Had 4 or 5 kick my butt, spit the crank back in the boat at me.......lil bastards!! But each a priceless hoot none the less

I let them all go of course, just had them in the live well for company till I got to my secret honey hole where they NOW live.....hehehe.

However, to get back on track, I recall my Dad having a ball point pin size neon test lamp(think it was digital? was either on or off!! ) in the junk drawer forever ago, hmmmm, 90'ish volts I think it takes to ionize neon tubes, think I need one of those in my bag too just for quick check/tests of CDI's, shore power and such if need be. Probably never use it, just sorta nice to have a good mix of tools handy, even if redundant/backup'ish when and if needed

OP, what say you, found and fixed yet?

 

[edmo]

Didn't mean to spawn the side notes, but maybe the crud in or around the fuse holder may have been allowing some current leak to ground somehow, OR jerking around the wires in the search may have inadvertently fixed the issue. I was kinda checking resistance to the auxiliary switch to make sure the switch wasn't shorted (it wasn't). I was tired and having neck cramps toward the end, but think all the wires to the battery checked individually drew no current when I left. I will check again later today. Regardless, I have learned a bunch and will persevere. BTW, the reason I need help from people with 30 years of electrical or HVAC experience is because I have 30 years experience in government work. Hope that doesn't disqualify me from further help.:joyous:

 

[midcarolina]

BTW, the reason I need help from people with 30 years of electrical or HVAC experience is because I have 30 years experience in government work. Hope that doesn't disqualify me from further help.:joyous:

HaHa......... now thats funny....... You will fit in just fine. :laugh:

 

[bruceb58]

maybe the crud in or around the fuse holder may have been allowing some current leak to ground somehow, OR jerking around the wires in the search may have inadvertently fixed the issue.

Leakage from a fuse holder can't draw enough current to draw down your battery.

Did you ever figure out how much current was actually being drawn? Was it 960mA? If you have a radio that is hooked up to power all the time, it can draw around 100mA which is why you usually want that on its own separate switch.

Another 2 questions...do you have a battery switch? Do you have one of those automatic bilge pumps that doesn't require a float? If you have one of those bilge pumps, they can draw down a battery after some time.

 

[edmo]

No radio and no battery switch, unless auxiliary key switch qualifies. It has to be turned on before I can operate the bilge pump, livewell pump, running lights and horn. Boat has an auto bilge thing that is white and looks like hinges up to automatically switch on bilge if needed. But it is disconnected both leads. I was thinking of reconnecting it. I have the wiring diagram for it.

I retested for a current leak again yesterday and didn't find any on the original culprit wire or any others. There is evidence of significant cobbling under the console and elsewhere to the electrical system, so I may have inadvertently fixed it while doing my own cobbling. The whole thing is a 1992 vintage so plenty of time and opportunity for messing things up.

I recall after mastering the meter operation the current draw at slightly less than 1 amp on the meter, 995 mA I think. Don't know if that info points to a suspect or not. Thanks again to all. I sure I'll be back again with other issues although I was able to walleye fish awhile yesterday without incident, except for catching catfish, drum, and smallmouth, but no walleye.