EricJRW
Chief Petty Officer
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2010
- Messages
- 488
Re: docking lights dim............help
Just out of curiosity, what size motor and batteries do you have?
Personally, I don't think a relay would help. Relays are so that a smaller switch (and wires) can be used to control something with larger current draw. For example, without relays, wires running to your automotive dash for horns and lights would have to be larger and the switches bigger (the bigger wires just need to go from the relay to the device). If 10 amps (actually 9.17) was too much for your switch or wires, you'd know pretty quick as they would be toast. I'm also assuming you have a fuse wired in somewhere? If not, you should. Lastly, I was going to suggest to check that all the connections are clean and shiny. I once saw a very odd trailer lighting problem that all had to do with bad a contact on the ground (one light was brighter than the other). Depending what you see with the volt meter, I'd really be tempted to test the lights on a different (bigger/newer) battery. I'm no electrician, but I'm pretty persistent when it comes to the process of elimination.
yes definately run parallel, and i was questioning the battery myself. this has a dual battery set up, and the batteries are older but i think i do have one that is on its last leg, but if i have the battery switch on ALL would this still give me an issue? thanks again
Just out of curiosity, what size motor and batteries do you have?
Personally, I don't think a relay would help. Relays are so that a smaller switch (and wires) can be used to control something with larger current draw. For example, without relays, wires running to your automotive dash for horns and lights would have to be larger and the switches bigger (the bigger wires just need to go from the relay to the device). If 10 amps (actually 9.17) was too much for your switch or wires, you'd know pretty quick as they would be toast. I'm also assuming you have a fuse wired in somewhere? If not, you should. Lastly, I was going to suggest to check that all the connections are clean and shiny. I once saw a very odd trailer lighting problem that all had to do with bad a contact on the ground (one light was brighter than the other). Depending what you see with the volt meter, I'd really be tempted to test the lights on a different (bigger/newer) battery. I'm no electrician, but I'm pretty persistent when it comes to the process of elimination.