Re: Does this indicate my transom is good?
83mulligan,
Thanks for the great thread. Looks like you did a great job!
I should explain that I love working with my hands, and have a very complete woodworking shop. I also have a little welding equipment, and I am good with tools at a hobbyist level. So I am confident that is I were to attempt to rebuild this transom, I could do it.
However, I am equally certain that once I got going, I wouldn't want to stop, and I would end up with a full on restoration spending 5-10 thousand dollars. It’s just my nature.
This boat was purchased as a knock around fishing boat, because that’s what I like to do, FISH!
I know many of you do your restorations as a labor of love, and I would be very susceptible to doing that too, but I don’t want to get sucked in.
Now, I am not saying that a 1987 Ranger, fully restored, wouldn't be an absolute thing of beauty, but I can’t justify the expense, time, or effort, when I just want to get a line wet!
Having said that, if I were to attempt the transom repair myself, I have several questions for 83mulligan, and the rest of you could chime in too.
Questions for 83 mulligan:
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/boat-restor...-292930-6.html
POST#138
It looks as though once you found a bad spot by drilling a hole, you then opened a larger area to see how bad it was. This is the square cutout in this picture, right? That being the case, were you now committed to a complete transom repair?
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/boat-restor...-292930-8.html
POST#196
What’s with the cheese grater? This is boat abuse, or vandalism. I am sure this wasn’t done by you, and if it was you wouldn’t admit it, but can you explain how this might have happened?
Another question is how much dry rot dictates replacing a transom, or is it possible/advisable to repair a small area if the rest is good?
Last question for now, if I replaced the whole transom, is there anything besides plywood that I should replace it with? What about using the stuff that pours in and then hardens?
Thanks