Draining the engine in Florida

[Quit It]

I joined a thread in "Boats" on this topic but thought this might be a better place.

I don't want to "winterize" because we'll probably use the boat at least once a month. I do want to know how to drain the block for those occasional "cold" nights we have. I found this in the manual:

This seems like such a PITA, not just pulling a plug and draining the block.

Maybe I'm underestimating my flexibility/desire ( ) but is there a simpler way? If the goal is to get air into the engine what about running till the thermostat opens then shutting down and pushing low pressure air into the flushing inlet?

Or, a more expensive option could be to could hook up a hose to a gallon of antifreeze (wildlife safe ) and run the motor till the gallon was gone, right?

Another thought, on bilge heaters ($$$). None seem to be run off of 12V. Can they be run through an inverter (plugged into cigarette lighter) and if so, any idea on how long the battery would last?

I dunno, just looking for something simpler for those rare days when we get close to freezing.

Thanks

Oh, I know this is the engine forum, but do folks drain their gensets (closed cooling & shares water intake with engine), AC (no idea) and water heater? At least I think I can see the WH drain

 

[aerobat]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

is the boat sitting in the water all the time ? if yes do not worry-the water temperature will warm the engine bay through the hull and nothing will happen if you get occasionally a night slightly below freezing level.

of course things will get different if you should get severe freezing for a longer period, but this seems to be uncommon at your location.

 

[Quit It]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Sorry, I should have mentioned that it's trailered.

I did notice the 50-75 boats stacked and stored at Goodby's marina. I wonder how many were drained.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

I joined a thread in "Boats" on this topic but thought this might be a better place.

I don't want to "winterize" because we'll probably use the boat at least once a month. I do want to know how to drain the block for those occasional "cold" nights we have. I found this in the manual:
View attachment 173789 View attachment 173790
This seems like such a PITA, not just pulling a plug and draining the block.

Maybe I'm underestimating my flexibility/desire ( ) but is there a simpler way? If the goal is to get air into the engine what about running till the thermostat opens then shutting down and pushing low pressure air into the flushing inlet?

Or, a more expensive option could be to could hook up a hose to a gallon of antifreeze (wildlife safe ) and run the motor till the gallon was gone, right?

Another thought, on bilge heaters ($$$). None seem to be run off of 12V. Can they be run through an inverter (plugged into cigarette lighter) and if so, any idea on how long the battery would last?

I dunno, just looking for something simpler for those rare days when we get close to freezing.

Thanks

Oh, I know this is the engine forum, but do folks drain their gensets (closed cooling & shares water intake with engine), AC (no idea) and water heater? At least I think I can see the WH drain

There really is no replacement for manually draining the engine. The thermostat may not stay open long enough for you to evacuate all the water from the engine, and I have my doubts it would be able to get the water out in the skirts of the block which are one of the areas most prone to freeze damage. Trying to get antifreeze into a block that is filled with water is usually a futile effort as well. You almost never displace all the water in the block with antifreeze, and there is no guarantee that the antifreeze that has mixed with the water has enough presence to prevent the water from fully freezing. In short drain her all out.

Once you do it a few times, it should become a quick routine that shouldn't take too long.

Any yes, if your generator has a heat exchanger that is raw water cooled, you need to drain the water out of the exchanger. Don't forget any lines/tanks/pumps that may contain water for an on-board water flushed head or sink.

 

[Quit It]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

There really is no replacement for manually draining the engine. The thermostat may not stay open long enough for you to evacuate all the water from the engine, and I have my doubts it would be able to get the water out in the skirts of the block which are one of the areas most prone to freeze damage. Trying to get antifreeze into a block that is filled with water is usually a futile effort as well. You almost never displace all the water in the block with antifreeze, and there is no guarantee that the antifreeze that has mixed with the water has enough presence to prevent the water from fully freezing. In short drain her all out.

Once you do it a few times, it should become a quick routine that shouldn't take too long.

Any yes, if your generator has a heat exchanger that is raw water cooled, you need to drain the water out of the exchanger. Don't forget any lines/tanks/pumps that may contain water for an on-board water flushed head or sink.

So you would do all the steps listed?

"a quick routine" would be ideal. Can this be done to a cold (not warmed up but definitely not frozen) block? It'd be an even bigger PITA if I had to tow the boat to water to run it till the block warmed up.

The sinks are grey water so they run right overboard but I'll dry flush the toilet.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

So you would do all the steps listed?

"a quick routine" would be ideal.

Yep, along with the steps on the page(s) before the ones you posted which involve draining the block. The quick part will come once you memorize which hoses and drains need to be opened up in order to drain the system. In my part of the country, there is no cutting corners if you intend on finding everything crack free the following spring. I would do the same in your area if there is the risk of freezing.

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Think of it this way...Your car has a water cooling system and they add antifreeze to it for freeze,corrosion and a better cooling liquid than water.

If it were just water alone and it got down to below freezing temps for a period of time. Something is going to break/crack...your boat is no different...

So ya either gotta do it yourself or pay to have someone else do it for ya....... Or take the chance ???????? Its up to you...your boat!

BTW - No need to have to warm the motor to drain it!

 

[aerobat]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

when the boat is trailered you MUST drain at least the block and manifolds or you will have a very expensive surprize next spring should some nights fall below freezing level - up to a completely wrecked engine / cracked block

a heating fan from boats inverter will drain your battery pretty quick so its not an option- if the boat is stored at your home you can use an ac electrical heater , but still with the risk it fails at a cold night and you do not notice it.

 

[Quit It]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Thanks folks. I'm very aware of why it needs to be done, I just would like a quicker way to do it since our cold spells are so infrequent and I plan on boating all "winter".

Anyone want to tell me what to do about the shower sump and the AC?

 

[Don S]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Anyone want to tell me what to do about the shower sump and the AC?

This is the Volvo engine forum, that you should ask in the Boat topics and question (Not engine topics) forum.

 

[aerobat]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

I just would like a quicker way to do it since our cold spells are so infrequent and I plan on boating all "winter".

there might be a quick and dirty solution for your goal- but at your own risk !

just drain the block and manifold after boating, without removing any hoses etc. thats a work of two minutes.

you take some risk that you may get damage in eg. the servo oil cooler when it really freezes significantly in florida , but you stay away from the real big issues like a cracked block.

hopefully don will not kick me in the a... for this hint !

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Hello Quit It:

A couple of things . . . your engine holds about 4-5 gallons of water in its entirety, so 1 gallon of antifreeze is not going to cut it.

Blowing air through the system will not remove much of the water . . . only enough to let the air go through.

As you can see from the instructions, proper draining of the engine and its associated components is a PITA. For the occasional night that might dip into the freezing zone . . . you could drain the manifolds and the block (4 places) and the outlet from the sea water pump. That should protect the important stuff.

You could also put a 100 watt light bulb in the engine compartment during the cold nights (if there just a few during the winter). You will have to use your best judgement as to the situation and the best approach.

 

[Quit It]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Well that sucked. Not terrible though. Thanks for all the advice everyone; I had a few hours and decided to give it a shot since it's going to be close to freezing

I did have a couple of questions. I think I found the port and starboard block drains but they don't seem as removable as the manifold drains (blue plastic thumbscrews). The "drains" are are greenish-blue and locktited in with bolt heads. Are they metal because of heat or can I replace them with the plastic thumbscrews (if so anyone have a part #)? I'm also considering making them metal thumbscrews with the welder.

Here's a picture of the starboard "plug" and also in that picture is a weird rubber "thingy" that has a loop in the cap (which makes me think I could pull it). It's also locktited in. I wasn't sure what it was (or if I could replace it) so I left it alone. [EDIT - incorrect]The hose that looks like it goes into the bolt, doesn't. It's just below it and leads somewhere else.



Thanks

 

[Outsider]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

If electricity is at hand, buy the heater. It will probably last more years than you'll have the boat, and you won't have to wonder if you did it right every time the wx man says 'hard freeze tonight, down to 30*'. Sumps and toilets are perfect candidates for anti-freeze, too ...

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

0379957 That's on OMC part# It's for block drain petcocks.
The block on Volvo(Chevy). The drain plugs on the cooling galley can be changed to the quick drain type.
You still might have to unplug the crankcase after removing the plug.Sand and crud settle to the bottom.
Also make sure all plugs are put back in or they will rust up and be a bugger to reinstall.
To protect the sump/drains. Pour pink RV antifreze in it. Head too.
Auto antifreeze is POISOIN!! Also illegal to dump. Do add it to the water.The pink stuff is all you need.

A factory manual will help.

 

[Quit It]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Electricity isn't exactly at hand Outsider, but I did entertain the thought of chaining our "portable" land based (not genset) generator to the trailer. Moving the portable won't be too bad but I don't know if it's a good solution.

JerryJerry05, thank you for the part number. Since they have to be removed for sand/crud anyway I'd prefer the plastic thumbscrews on the block. Any idea if they would melt? I've never felt the bottom of the block near the drains but the manifolds aren't too hot to rest my hands on.

And, you're right about the manual.

Thanks

 

[Don S]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Plastic plugs have been used for years for block drains. The only time they would melt is during a very serious overheat. At which point you would have a lot more problems than just melted drain plugs.
A standard brass hex pipe plug works just as well for draining, and you don't need a bunch of extra parts to install them.

 

[Quit It]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Ok then I think I'll just go with plastic. The store didn't have the ones with the keeper cord like the manifolds have so I'll have to keep looking for those because without it I'm sure they'll eventually get lost.

Oh, they only had Mercruiser plastic drain plugs. Mercruiser and Volvo are both Chevy blocks so I'm guessing it'll work, right?

 

[Quit It]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

Also, do I pop that rubber cap off (2nd arrow in picture).



Thanks

 

[Quit It]

Re: Draining the engine in Florida

So I couldn't use the plastic thumbscrews I found locally, the plastic screws use a course thread and the block drains are fine threads. So, does anyone have a part number for plastic block thumbscrews, fine pitch?

Another curious thing, why does the starboard block drain connect to a hose that goes to a "T" in the thermostat hose and the port block drain doesn't? I'm thinking this was added by the PO. Should I add the same thing to the port side?