Electric Boat Winch

[LuvBoating]

It looks like a nice plug and all, but I can't see why you would need it.

Somewhere a wire has to be connected to the car's battery. That puts a permanent wire in the car. The other end of that wire has the plug that connects to the winch. Why would you need a disconnect in between? (maybe I'm missing something here).

The easiest way is to buy a small 12V battery, put it in the trunk when you go boating and connect the wire to that battery. No disconnect needed. You can even cut the wire a mile shorter because the trunk is close to the trailer. A tractor battery or a jetski battery should work fine and be real light. When you get home charge it back up. You won't need a mechanic to connect 2 wires to that battery.

We have been told, in this thread, to simply have the wiring done from the vehicle battery to the rear of the vehicle. That way we wouldn't forget to take the battery with us to the lake, if we took it home to recharge. Thing is, we'd have to keep the back hatch open somewhat, so the winch could be connected to the battery, unless we installed a battery on the trailer, just behind the winch.

I honestly don't know which is better, a separate battery for the winch or connecting the winch to the vehicle battery.

 

[MTboatguy]

That is odd, most of the Dodges have been rated up to 50 amps on the 12v charge circuit. At full load on that winch it should pull up to about 60 amps. How large is the positive lead on the winch, a 10 gauge would be around 3/16in in diameter.

At the worst the mechanic is going to have to run a 10 gauge home run to the battery in the truck and then ground the system, which you can use those connections that you posted, those types of connections require the wires to be soldered to the metal poles that are inside the plug. They are good connections. They are positive lock and won't fall apart, that is what most of us use that run off road rigs. They are rated far higher than you will be drawing on your winch.

I would take it into the shop on Monday and let them look at it and go from there. If you were closer to me, I would be happy to do it up for you, I have all of the supplies in my shop to do that job.

:joyous:

 

[LuvBoating]

Now my wife and I are back to thinking about having a spare battery, like a motorcycle battery, if the amps are good enough, to place in a holder bolted down to the trailer. Put the battery in the Durango when we go to the lake, take it out at the lake, sit it in the holder on the trailer, hook up to the winch and run the winch. When she parks the Durango and trailer, put the battery back inside the Durango. Take out at home and put on charger. Put battery with things we take to the boat when taking it out, so we don't forget to take it with us.

That way, we wouldn't have to have our Durango wired for the winch. Good idea? Have to wait until the winch gets to us next week to find out the amps of it.

 

[LuvBoating]

I just found out, from a video from Fulton, more about this new electric winch we bought. It says, a minimum of 650 cca 12V DC Battery. That obviously means a little motorcycle battery is out. There are two of these winches and we got the one for a max length of 26' boat. Ours is a 20'. The other was for a max length of 20', but wanted the assurance of "pulling weight" of 10,000 lbs for pulling power.

Video also showed the winch being used next to a floating dock and the operating battery, which was a full-size battery, sitting in a holder on the trailer. Video stated that the wiring is included for quick hookup to the battery. The winch has lights for the bow ring area and for the hitch. Showed the wireless remote being used also. All-in-all, looks mighty nice for the cost.

 

[JimS123]

We have been told, in this thread, to simply have the wiring done from the vehicle battery to the rear of the vehicle. That way we wouldn't forget to take the battery with us to the lake, if we took it home to recharge. Thing is, we'd have to keep the back hatch open somewhat, so the winch could be connected to the battery, unless we installed a battery on the trailer, just behind the winch.

I honestly don't know which is better, a separate battery for the winch or connecting the winch to the vehicle battery.

I don't know which is better either. Its a matter of doing what you like best.

For the past 35 years I have used a car that was permanently wired. This year I decided to retire the car and use it exclusively for classic car shows. Now we use one of two SUVs.

OMG what a difference. Backing down the ramp with the hatch fully opened, IMHO, is the only way to go. The visibility of the ramp and the water and the trailer with the hatch open is just so awesome.

In the interim I used a spare East Penn Deka battery from my old jetski and it performed flawlessly. It hardly took much charge after the last retreive. Of course, my winch is the classic PowerWinch 912, and I don't know what the actual requirement is.

I do know that I would never mount the battery on the trailer. As it is I remove the winch and put that in the car as well. Just too much temptation on a public ramp. Having to remove a battery too is too much hassle.

Personally, if I planned on keeping the car as a towcar as long as the last one, I'd permanently wire it. Now, I'll use the separate battery idea since I plan to switch cars from time to time.

 

[poconojoe]

Your reason for buying the electric winch was you wanted it to be easier on your body. I would go with the permanent installation on your Durango. Who wants to keep connecting, disconnecting, moving and recharging batteries? That's not making it easier in my opinion.

 

[LuvBoating]

When it comes to connecting and disconnecting, unless a boater takes his boat/trailer everywhere, there will be connecting and disconnecting done. The boat/trailer will be stored in a Boat/RV storage area.

Problem with keeping the hatch of the Durango open, while launching the boat, it anything in the back of the Durango sliding out into the water. Actually, when I back down a ramp, I use my side mirrors.

We won't even be using a ramp until we move to Colorado. While boat is here, it is in Dry Storage and put into the water with a fork lift.

Got the winch, from UPS, yesterday, so today will totally unpack and check out. One thing I did notice, the winch is somewhat heavy, but then again, this winch can pull up 10,000 lbs. or a max boat length of 26 feet. Will have dry storage bring out trailer down from the rack and measure the area of existing winch to make sure new winch will fit. When I go to dry storage, will also take new winch with me and check out. Want to make sure this new one fits where the old "manual" one is, before having our marine mechanic install it.

 

[dingbat]

The problem with winches is the rating system.

For one, they are rated using an empty spool. LxR...for very wrap of the cable on the winch, the pulling power is decreased. With half a spool of cable, your pulling power is half it’s rating.

keep in mind the load rating has nothing to do with actual lift capabilities.

Speed is another issue. Most of the “heavy” winches use a double line to met the rated pull. Doulbling the line means doubling the retrieval time. Seconds become minutes in a hurry.

My winch is rated at #4200 of pull. Don’t
remember the advertised boat size and weight but it was considerably larger

My boat is 22ft. and weight roughly #5000. Use a single line pull so my speed is pretty good relatives to others I’ve seen. By the time the boat is 3-4 ft. from the winch stand the winch is really struggling. Will replace with a bigger winch when this one needs replaced

 

[LuvBoating]

The problem with winches is the rating system.

For one, they are rated using an empty spool. LxR...for very wrap of the cable on the winch, the pulling power is decreased. With half a spool of cable, your pulling power is half it’s rating.

keep in mind the load rating has nothing to do with actual lift capabilities.

Speed is another issue. Most of the “heavy” winches use a double line to met the rated pull. Doulbling the line means doubling the retrieval time. Seconds become minutes in a hurry.

My winch is rated at #4200 of pull. Don’t
remember the advertised boat size and weight but it was considerably larger

My boat is 22ft. and weight roughly #5000. Use a single line pull so my speed is pretty good relatives to others I’ve seen. By the time the boat is 3-4 ft. from the winch stand the winch is really struggling. Will replace with a bigger winch when this one needs replaced

This Fulton XLT 10.0 is rated at 10,000 lbs. for a max length of 26 foot boat. So, being that our boat is a 20 footer and weighs in the area of 3,400 lbs., this new winch shouldn't have any problem at all pulling the boat up. This is the reason why I didn't order the cheaper one. The max boat length of it was 20' and I didn't want the winch to struggle pulling up our boat. Really, really looking forward to using it, but that won't be until after we move. The forklift at dry storage will put the boat on the trailer, when we are ready to ship it.

 

[dingbat]

This Fulton XLT 10.0 is rated at 10,000 lbs. for a max length of 26 foot boat. So, being that our boat is a 20 footer and weighs in the area of 3,400 lbs., this new winch shouldn't have any problem at all pulling the boat up.

They quote specifications with no quantitative reference to the torque output of the winch whatsoever. You have no information to determine the suitability of the winch for the job other than take their word for it.

As an ME, I don't like take anyone's word on anything mechanical. Especially those wanting to sell you something at the best possible price. Past experience with winch suppliers has proven my suspension as a valid concern

I hope everything works out for you

 

[JimS123]

I have personally been using a Powerwinch 912 (brand) for 35 years now. It has performed flawlessly all these years, and has always been used to pull the entire boat on the trailer. I use the single line pull, though it has the parts and capability of using a 2-line pull. It uses an aircraft steel cable, which has shown no fraying or deterioration in all these years.

In past threads when I commented about my experiences it was pointed out to me that this is a cheap unit and that other brands are better and more reliable, but cost a lot more. I have friends that have cheaper brands and they have had problems, while mine has been quite reliable.

I looked up current pricing and it costs about $415 now. The same web site sells the Fulton XLT 10,000 unit for $269.

I also hope you have good luck with your unit. Since it has a strap, not a steel cable, I would caution using it for long pulls with the trailer far out of the water. Also, I noted from the literature that it comes with only a 15' strap, so that could be problematic with a 20' boat. I bought a LoadRite trailer a few years ago and it came with a strap that was also too short. A call to their customer service brought a longer strap at no charge.

I do like the remote control feature for single handed loading. I can do that with mine as well, but only with the accessory lanyard that ties to the electric button.

Good luck with your new unit.

 

[LuvBoating]

I have personally been using a Powerwinch 912 (brand) for 35 years now. It has performed flawlessly all these years, and has always been used to pull the entire boat on the trailer. I use the single line pull, though it has the parts and capability of using a 2-line pull. It uses an aircraft steel cable, which has shown no fraying or deterioration in all these years.

In past threads when I commented about my experiences it was pointed out to me that this is a cheap unit and that other brands are better and more reliable, but cost a lot more. I have friends that have cheaper brands and they have had problems, while mine has been quite reliable.

I looked up current pricing and it costs about $415 now. The same web site sells the Fulton XLT 10,000 unit for $269.

I also hope you have good luck with your unit. Since it has a strap, not a steel cable, I would caution using it for long pulls with the trailer far out of the water. Also, I noted from the literature that it comes with only a 15' strap, so that could be problematic with a 20' boat. I bought a LoadRite trailer a few years ago and it came with a strap that was also too short. A call to their customer service brought a longer strap at no charge.

I do like the remote control feature for single handed loading. I can do that with mine as well, but only with the accessory lanyard that ties to the electric button.

Good luck with your new unit.

Why would 15' of strap be a problem with a 20' boat? Not hooking up the strap to the stern. On the dock, pull the boat up and onto the trailer and snap on the strap to the bow ring. Same way we did it with the manual winch, except this is electric, which means NO hand cranking of the winch. We both like that.

 

[JimS123]

Why would 15' of strap be a problem with a 20' boat? Not hooking up the strap to the stern. On the dock, pull the boat up and onto the trailer and snap on the strap to the bow ring. Same way we did it with the manual winch, except this is electric, which means NO hand cranking of the winch. We both like that.

I guess its all a matter of technique. I launch on docks, not from the shore. My ramps are shallow. I don't like to get my feet wet. I pull my winch strap (or cable - I have several boats) out to extend past the end of the trailer. Then I pull the boat's stem in toward the dock so I can hitch the hook onto the boat's bow eye. That way I don't have to bend over too far (my back is a problem) or walk in the water.

My boat is 19 feet. The trailer is 19 feet from the winch to the aft roller. I need a 20' strap to enable hookup. A 15 footer would mean the boat has to already be 5 feet on the trailer, and at that point I can't reach the bow eye.

After 50 years of boating I think I found the easy way. At least its easy for me. I just hate it when trailer companies skimp on the little parts just to save a few bucks.

 

[MTboatguy]

I have a 15 foot strap on mine as well and it works fine.

 

[LuvBoating]

We've always had our boat basically "on the trailer" before hooking up the winch to it. Before we put our 20' Celebrity 200 Cuddy into dry storage, it was on a trailer. The local ramp we use to go to didn't have a floating or stationary dock on the launching/retrieving ramps, like Colorado did. I had to drive the boat up onto the trailer, which was in the water, and my wife would use the manual winch to pull it up and secure it with the safety chain. My wife really never did get use to launching/retrieving without a dock to simply pull the boat off of the trailer or pull it on. The manual winch has always been hard for her to use.

If this new electric winch does what we hope it does, it will definitely be a God Send for wife, as well as me.

 

[LuvBoating]

Was a little worried about the mounting spot/location for the new winch, but after looking at (zooming in) on an old photo I took of our existing winch hooked up to our boat bow (location of it), it's exactly the same location that's in the Instruction Manual for the new electric winch. The new winch should fit perfectly. If it does need to set more securely, I have no doubt that our marine mechanic will make it fit more securely.

 

[LuvBoating]

The manufacturer of this winch states that it is "corrosion resistant". Is that the same as "water resistant" and does that mean we don't need a cover for it? Or, should we cover it some way. When we move, it will be in both rain and snow.

 

[JimS123]

The manufacturer of this winch states that it is "corrosion resistant". Is that the same as "water resistant" and does that mean we don't need a cover for it? Or, should we cover it some way. When we move, it will be in both rain and snow.

Water resistant means you can get it wet. Corrosion resistant means it will corrode, but it will take longer.

By all means cover it when not in use. Avoid getting the motor wet. Use a quick detachable mount so you can remove it if you must store the trailer outdoors. Avoid having the strap subjected to sunlight - it will lose its strength and break in a couple of years. (ask me how i know)

Its all just common sense care of expensive equipment.

 

[dingbat]

The manufacturer of this winch states that it is "corrosion resistant". Is that the same as "water resistant" and does that mean we don't need a cover for it? Or, should we cover it some way. When we move, it will be in both rain and snow.

my winch lives outside housed in a heavy duty plastic (trash) bag. The intent was to have a canvas cover made but never got there

 

[LuvBoating]

Water resistant means you can get it wet. Corrosion resistant means it will corrode, but it will take longer.

By all means cover it when not in use. Avoid getting the motor wet. Use a quick detachable mount so you can remove it if you must store the trailer outdoors. Avoid having the strap subjected to sunlight - it will lose its strength and break in a couple of years. (ask me how i know)

Its all just common sense care of expensive equipment.

BOTH the trailer and the boat will be stored outside, in a spot at a Boat/RV Storage. So, the winch will have to stay on the trailer. I can cover the winch, but that would be it.