Engine Cracks but won’t run

[Big dawg 23]

I inherited a boat from father that passed away. It is a 2001 Glastron GX 185 SF. It has Volvo Penta 4.3GL.

The engine plate is the following
4.3GL PEFS
4012029634
3869053

First the boat has been in storage for 3 years. With a new battery in the engine cranks and tries to fire. However, when I release the key it stops. There is spark. I have power going in and out of the fuel pump. I have even hooked up a separate fuel tank to eliminate the old fuel. Removed the fuel line at the carb and cranked it getting about 8-12 oz of gas out. I have checked all fuses and they are good(tested via OHM on Multimeter to confirm). After reading many threads I am thinking there is an issue with the lanyard kill switch that might be grounding it out. I have twisted the wires together and still have the same issue.

Am I correct in suspecting something is grounding out engine causing it to just cranking but not run?

Thanks fo your help.

 

[bruceb58]

Pour a small amount of gasoline down the carb throat and see if it will start. If it does, it could be the carb, especially the accelerator pump which is clogged. When I purchased my boat many years ago, I had to rebuild the accel pump.

If that doesn't work, pull a spark plug wire and test it for a spark.

 

[Big dawg 23]

Pour a small amount of gasoline down the carb throat and see if it will start. If it does, it could be the carb, especially the accelerator pump which is clogged. When I purchased my boat many years ago, I had to rebuild the accel pump.

If that doesn't work, pull a spark plug wire and test it for a spark.

It does have spark. I connected a spark tester that shows sparking happening.

As for fuel, when you pull throttle cable you can see it squirt fuel. I am concerned for a varnished fuel system. Fuel was very dark. I first they it was the ignition and replaced it along with Fuel Filter.

I will try the fuel in carb approach.

 

[bruceb58]

Yep..get rid of all the fuel that is still in the carb. That's likely why it isn't starting

 

[Maclin]

I am not familiar with the exact ignition system on this engine regarding the coil and ballast. If it has ballast, then the symptom you describe here "However, when I release the key it stops" sounds exactly like the ballast resistor component (wire or physical resistor) has failed.

When ballast fails in this type of system, It actually starts and begins to run, then when you release the key from Cranking it dies immediately. If the system is designed with ballast, then ballast resistance is in the coil circuit 12v side when the key is in Run, the voltage on the coil is around 9v. During cranking a full 12v is supplied through a bypass circuit, again only when cranking. If he ballast circuit is open (resistance component has failed) then the coil has no voltage with the key in the Run position.

Not saying this is the problem.

Did it act exactly like this before you took it to the shop? If it started after, seems a connection to the coil may have been missed.

Good luck!

 

[Big dawg 23]

I am not familiar with the exact ignition system on this engine regarding the coil and ballast. If it has ballast, then the symptom you describe here "However, when I release the key it stops" sounds exactly like the ballast resistor component (wire or physical resistor) has failed.

When ballast fails in this type of system, It actually starts and begins to run, then when you release the key from Cranking it dies immediately. If the system is designed with ballast, then ballast resistance is in the coil circuit 12v side when the key is in Run, the voltage on the coil is around 9v. During cranking a full 12v is supplied through a bypass circuit, again only when cranking. If he ballast circuit is open (resistance component has failed) then the coil has no voltage with the key in the Run position.

Not saying this is the problem.

Did it act exactly like this before you took it to the shop? If it started after, seems a connection to the coil may have been missed.

Good luck!

I have not taken it to the shop. When you say ballast, I assume that is the same as the diodes? I have picked up a rebuild kit for the carb as it’s never been touched.

 

[Maclin]

Sorry, I had your post mixed up with one that had a reference to having taken it to a shop.

On Ballast, not a diode, just voltage-dropping resistance in the form of an actual ballast resistor, or a wire that is not just straight copper but has resistance all along it on purpose for ballast.