engine fumes in cuddy

[veritas honus]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

A lot depends on the type rub rail you have. If it's like mine that is solid rubber, then yes you can reuse it if you don't stretch it too much. If it is a hard plastic or metal one and you damage it, then no.

In either case use care, and think about what you are going to do, have help to support it, then do it.

Some rub rails have an insert that hides the screws. Those can be reused or new screws can be positioned to new holes, but if you do that the old holes must be sealed.

All the rails I have seen are held in place with SS screws but that doesn't mean there aren't some out there that are glued in place as well.

Hull to deck joints on a lot of boats are only held together with screws, some are joined with an adhesive, while the best are a combination of the 2 with a backer for the screws. There is a lot of movement between the 2 sections and they can work loose over time, allowing the leak.

Enjoy.

It's rubber; and for nineteen years old, it's in amazing condition. My boat has been beautifully maintained by the original owner, and then by my Father-in-Law, who gave her to me after six years and only about 10hrs on her. She'll continue to be beautifully maintained by me... But anyway, thank you again. This issue will be resolved before the spring. I'm going to take her out for a three day weekend in two weeks. After that, full winterization/maintainance.

Safe and happy boating always!!!

 

[Bob's Garage]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Where do I start? I'm not at the boat now, but is the rub rail generally one piece? I don't recall ever noticing multiple joints. Do I simply (and carefully) pry the close end up, and go around to the point in question?

If it was me, I would 1st verify that that was where the leak was coming from.

Then grab the rail in the front and give it a good shake or some other strong movement to see if it is loose. Grab the top of the deck and the bow and squeeze them together. They should not move, if they do the joint is compromised.

Then look at the stern and you will see the end of the rub rail some where at the back. This would be where you would start removal.

If you elect to continue and intend to remove the rail start by identifying the type of rail. If it has an insert, you must determine how it goes in and how it is to come out. If it's a rubber rail, you are lucky and can just gently pry out the end and then pull it away from the boat and work it out of the rail.

If it's metal then it probably sits in a channel with a lip and you may end up damaging it when you remove it. If this is the case I would try to locate a replacement before continuing.

I am not personally familiar with the metal style, but they may slide in and out, which means you will need help to work the insert around the boat. Or, if you don't care, then just rip it out.

In either situation the screws will probably be visible, if so, begin the removal and proceed to the repair.

There is enough variation in boats that there is not a hard and fast rule when someone is not familiar with the specific boat being discussed.

You are going to have to get your feet wet, and then you can tell us all about it - take pictures.

 

[veritas honus]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Sorry Bob I'm not being serious in the least my friend were having fun and I don't mean to offend you, your knowledge in this has been very helpful to both of us.

See what happens when ya jack a post? This post has been a fun ride!!! I wonder how long it'll be before one of the moderators moves it to dockside chat... For now though, I'll keep on keepin' ya posted. I may live in the south now; but I'm still just a dumb kid from Brooklyn!!!... and I don't say Ya'll...
Got to step away for a little while. I'll be back in about an hour...

Safe and happy boating always!!!

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

See what happens when ya jack a post? This post has been a fun ride!!! I wonder how long it'll be before one of the moderators moves it to dockside chat... For now though, I'll keep on keepin' ya posted. I may live in the south now; but I'm still just a dumb kid from Brooklyn!!!... and I don't say Ya'll...
Got to step away for a little while. I'll be back in about an hour...

Safe and happy boating always!!!

I know I know Opened my big mouth one to many times, Bob sincerely I meant no ill will at all I hope you accept my apology, I do appreciate your wisdom in this since obviously your more seasoned in boat repair then either myself or Veritas. See you in a bit Veritas

 

[Bob's Garage]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Sorry Bob I'm not being serious in the least my friend were having fun and I don't mean to offend you, your knowledge in this has been very helpful to both of us.

Not offended, just curious as to what was meant by the question.

 

[Bob's Garage]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

See what happens when ya jack a post? This post has been a fun ride!!! I wonder how long it'll be before one of the moderators moves it to dockside chat... For now though, I'll keep on keepin' ya posted. I may live in the south now; but I'm still just a dumb kid from Brooklyn!!!... and I don't say Ya'll...
Got to step away for a little while. I'll be back in about an hour...

Safe and happy boating always!!!

One thing, I don't know what the temperature is up there right now, but the rail will be a lot easier to work with if you waited until it was at least 80 degrees.

The rubber shrinks when it's cold (LOL) so if you wait you can remove it, place it in a warm spot, like the driveway, and it will be much easier to manipulate.

When replacing it, start in the middle at the bow and work your way back, pulling the rail tight as you go. This is where having a couple big friends is a good thing.

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Not offended, just curious as to what was meant by the question.

I wasn't asking I was being sarcastic is all, bad joke, me and Veritas clearly have the same sense of humor and I forgot that not everyone gets it. You made the point that the rub rail gasket is not very good quality and that it would be better to use an adhesive silicone instead (I didn't know that and thanks for the info) after I had posted at how easy it was to install my new rub rail on my last boat with the new gasket...therefore I said so what your saying is its a good thing I sold my old boat meaning I did it wrong so get rid of it!

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

the rubber shrinks when it's cold (lol) so if you wait you can remove it, place it in a warm spot, like the driveway, and it will be much easier to manipulate.

now thats funny!

 

[Bob's Garage]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

I wasn't asking I was being sarcastic is all, bad joke, me and Veritas clearly have the same sense of humor and I forgot that not everyone gets it. You made the point that the rub rail gasket is not very good quality and that it would be better to use an adhesive silicone instead (I didn't know that and thanks for the info) after I had posted at how easy it was to install my new rub rail on my last boat with the new gasket...therefore I said so what your saying is its a good thing I sold my old boat meaning I did it wrong so get rid of it!

Ok, a total miscommunication. I figured the gasket you referred to was used under your rail at the time of installation. The sealer/adhesive I was talking about was to be used between the hull and deck joint before reinstalling the screws.

However, the gasket should not be used in place of a sealer on the screws but in addition to them. (My opinion)

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Yep your way makes complete sense, and If I would have thought of it at the time I would absolutely have done it that way of course it would have been nice for that to have been in the directions also but you know how that goes.....but I sold the boat and bought a newer one!!

 

[veritas honus]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

One thing, I don't know what the temperature is up there right now, but the rail will be a lot easier to work with if you waited until it was at least 80 degrees.

The rubber shrinks when it's cold (LOL) so if you wait you can remove it, place it in a warm spot, like the driveway, and it will be much easier to manipulate.

When replacing it, start in the middle at the bow and work your way back, pulling the rail tight as you go. This is where having a couple big friends is a good thing.

That makes perfect sense; but I'm not "up there", I'm "down here", in the south
The daytime temperatures are in the mid 70's right now; but you never know when we'll have a week in the 80's in the middle of November/December. I'll just plan on making this a springtime project, though. That'll avoid any possible disappointment. The anchor locker is completely watertight. After every winter run, I'll simply remove the couple inches of water and look forward to the repair in the spring. I will check the stability of the hull/cap joint. I don't think there are any issues there because I've walked and stepped all over it while trailered on solid ground; and neither felt nor heard any shifting or give. Thanks again!!!... And be assured, there will be pictures.
PS: Can't let the rubber shrink in the cold... It won't work as well.

Safe and happy boating always!!!

 

[veritas honus]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

I know I know Opened my big mouth one to many times, Bob sincerely I meant no ill will at all I hope you accept my apology, I do appreciate your wisdom in this since obviously your more seasoned in boat repair then either myself or Veritas. See you in a bit Veritas

You didn't open your mouth one to many times... You simply opened another door... I'm still LMAO about this stuff.

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

are you going to put the drain port in your anchor locker to drain the water?

and stop rubbing in the warm weather!! were supposed to get snow monday night!

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

You didn't open your mouth one to many times... You simply opened another door... I'm still LMAO about this stuff.

You got that right! But I think I got things straightened out with bob so thats cool, then he backs it up with a crack that probably would have thrown us over the edge had he said it the other night!!LOL

 

[veritas honus]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

are you going to put the drain port in your anchor locker to drain the water?

and stop rubbing in the warm weather!! were supposed to get snow monday night!

STOP RUBBING IN THE SNOW!!!... I'm a snowboarder dawggonnit!!! Putting in a drain port?... I know that was mentioned in a previous reply, but it was never addressed. I don't even know how that would work... Where would the water drain? I understand that the drain would be put at the lowest point to be effective; but how would it keep water out? This is something I'm unfamiliar with. Please explain...

 

[veritas honus]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

You got that right! But I think I got things straightened out with bob so thats cool, then he backs it up with a crack that probably would have thrown us over the edge had he said it the other night!!LOL

Edge??? What edge? I didn't see any edge!!! Good thing, too; I probably wouldn't have been paying attention and fallen off

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

good point I was laughing so hard I don't think I would have seen the edge either!

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

STOP RUBBING IN THE SNOW!!!... I'm a snowboarder dawggonnit!!! Putting in a drain port?... I know that was mentioned in a previous reply, but it was never addressed. I don't even know how that would work... Where would the water drain? I understand that the drain would be put at the lowest point to be effective; but how would it keep water out? This is something I'm unfamiliar with. Please explain...

Well my anchor locker has a port that allows water from the anchor and rope to drain out through the hull via a little plastic white port that is drilled into the hull and then sealed similar to this but I am not sure this is the exact piece:
http://www.iboats.com/Forespar-Thru...27639350--**********.171252327--view_id.20780
I'm not sure your anchor locker means that you would have to penetrate both the inner and outer hull since I believe my anchor locker is molded between the two and therefore my drain only goes through one thickness of fiberglass

 

[veritas honus]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

Well my anchor locker has a port that allows water from the anchor and rope to drain out through the hull via a little plastic white port that is drilled into the hull and then sealed similar to this but I am not sure this is the exact piece:
http://www.iboats.com/Forespar-Thru...27639350--**********.171252327--view_id.20780
I'm not sure your anchor locker means that you would have to penetrate both the inner and outer hull since I believe my anchor locker is molded between the two and therefore my drain only goes through one thickness of fiberglass

I really don't think I'll be adding a drain. My wife and I were talking about building a shelf to fit right into the top to replace the carpet which just sits on top of the otherwise open anchor locker. Once I get the leak taken care of, we'll use it for extra storage space; probably for a spare set of clothing for each of us. The shelf will simply cover it up and provide additional shelf space in the cabin. The "hole/tunnel" which you figured is simply what they used to lift the hull out of the mold, not only makes perfect sense; but just happens to be the perfect height to serve as support for the fitted shelf I'm going to build. I will, of course, share pictures of that little project when the time comes...

Safe and happy boationg always!!!

 

[Bob's Garage]

Re: engine fumes in cuddy

After further review, I do not believe that what you have is an anchor locker. It would be useless for that function. I think I agree about the "hole" being used as a leverage point to remove it from the mold.

A drain would be much too difficult to install, and probably not work well.

The problem to be addressed is where the water is coming in. Once that has been corrected then it can be used for the other functions you mentioned.

The joint does not have to move to be a source of the leak. The movement would only serve to indicate how severe the joint is damaged. If the screws are still tight, but the sealing qualities are compromised then there will be little to no movement but still water intrusion.

It appears that the carpet can be removed from the compartment? If so, I suggest removing it until the leak is repaired to prevent staining and damage to it. It can then be reapplied.

There is a product that was advertised and demonstrated on "Shipshape TV"
that absorbed odors and was granules of some sort hug in bags. It was reported to work for your problem. Don't remember the name, but some searching on the "World Wide Web" should prove fruitful.

(And no, I don't really talk like this , it's just my fingers have a mind of their own.)