Engine hole? patch job? leak

rderenzy

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Ayuh,..... My fellow Mod, Achris has written extensively 'bout the problem with those parts on that motor,.....

Do a search, 'n/ or pm him,.....

found it - i'll review that thread, and post a reply if I have any questions or find out what he did to solve the issue, or what he bought
thanks!
 

rderenzy

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1997 4.3L front cover removal process question regarding oil pan

Hey all, with some reference to this archived topic titled Merc MPI V6, cracking timing covers **UPDATE** Page: 1 ...

I have a 97 Merc 4.3l With Oil in my bilge...
Its at the shop right now, but from my looks of things, I bet the old owner had it cracked, and he tried to repair it w/o removing the engine or removing the oil pan, because I'm not finding any cracks, just a large gap - which I think is where my oil is from.
the mechanic is going to remove the full back seat, to avoid pulling the engine - I let him know, from reading, It seems like the oil pan HAS to come off ???.

achris, (and other members too) From all of your work in the referenced topic by you, it sounds like there is no way I could upgrade my cover to an aluminum one? is that correct? so I'm at the mercy of a plastic cover, again?
Also, the oil leak isn't too much, but I do end up with oil every time I go out - at what price point do I just say screw it and monitor and add oil when needed?
I only paid 3.5k for the boat.
I just hate to pay 3-500 dollars for someone to put on another plastic cover to have it crack. :(
Not really sure what to do.:confused:

Even w/ the leak it runs very well, cool, no issues, sounds great too... Thank you.
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Get the aftermarket replacement.
513.jpg
 

rderenzy

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I only see a picture. According the that master thread.... The aluminum won't fit?
10vs6 bolts
 

rderenzy

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Update - Repair confirmed the timing case was previously attempted to be installed w/ the engine in the boat and w/o the oil pan off, so its not sealed
I feel confident with him, as he is saying engine has to come out, put upside down, remove pan, install cover - just like the long thread indicates.

HOWEVER - I'm getting a quote of about 650 (450 labor, 100 for the oil pan gasket and plastic timing cover (he checked and he couldn't get a metal one (but again the main thread states the new aluminum ones wont work with the older engines, 6 bolt vs 10 bolt)) <Thoughts on this and the quote?

Now I'm in a pickle - its a lot of money for a small leak, but maybe the leak will become larger?
Should I just try to cut corners and patch it? (my luck I fix it, get the engine in and at the end of the year, something else breaks and I need to have the engine pulled again)
If I do have the engine pulled are there things I should just have addressed at the time its pulled, other upgrades or repairs

I really need some help and guidance here :(
 

Grub54891

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Jun 17, 2012
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Any reputable marine shop would recommend what should be replaced when the motor is out. Sometimes they will not know what they will find till its pulled/disassembled. You can't quote a price for what you can't see. When we are doing major work, we give a ballpark of the cost, and tell them, we may find other issues, And we do call them and let them know before proceeding. No you will not get a call for simple hose clamps or small things, but larger/pricier parts, yes. Most of the time there are no other issues. Actually 650 don't sound to bad to me.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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I'm the author of tldr. :D I had my engine out and in about 10 times in an effort to avoid the obvious (I was also learning exactly what was causing the problem in the process).

OK, in a shorter form.
Oil pan is cast aluminium. It appears that at some stage a mould was damaged but still stayed in the prodution line. That damage caused the front of the pan to be raised about 60thou. That put pressure on a section of the composite timing cover that is not reinforced, put it under stress. With use the cover eventually cracks and allows oil to leak out. The crack is NOT visible externally. The oil follows a path to freedom.

The fix. Replace the oil pan and the timing cover. As already stated, the cover is 'one time'. You can use a cover and pan from any GM car product with the correct model of 4.3. That will run you to about 1/5 of the Merc price tag. You just need to paint the pan (it comes 'unfinished'), I used a 2 pack gloss black spray over a proper ecthing primer (spray-can paint won't last).....

Prices for the GM parts
Timing cover - $39
Pan gasket - $9
OIl pan - $159

$100 for the cover and gasket is a rip-off. Get the parts yourself and hand them to the mechanic. They are the same as the Merc ones, but without the 'marine' tax.... ;)

Chris.........

Here's a link to a GM parts supplier. It also appears those parts have gone up quite a bit since I bought them.... :(
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-pa...ine-parts-scat

Here's a cover from Summit. Same thing, a lot cheaper.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/par...w/year/2003/make/chevrolet/model/express-1500
 
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rderenzy

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Any reputable marine shop would recommend what should be replaced when the motor is out. Sometimes they will not know what they will find till its pulled/disassembled. You can't quote a price for what you can't see. When we are doing major work, we give a ballpark of the cost, and tell them, we may find other issues, And we do call them and let them know before proceeding. No you will not get a call for simple hose clamps or small things, but larger/pricier parts, yes. Most of the time there are no other issues. Actually 650 don't sound to bad to me.

oh I understand that, no worries there on what else he finds. I'm just trying to be precautious, and curious with the older engine, since and while its out, if there is anything I should just say F it and replace preventatively -- maybe, such as the other engine seals
 

rderenzy

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achris great writeup ,thanks for the explanation

so a few questions on the year, I notice your quotes are for 2003, but mine is a 1997 - is that ok?
there is a HUGE difference between the 1997 and 2003
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-p...3l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-parts-scat

also, how could I be sure I'm getting the "updated" revision of the oil pan? **Edit(found it, 12559523, is the old aluminum, which is discontinued, 12559553 is the new one) I thought you mentioned yours was an 06, which still had the problem
Any chance the older engines didn't have this problem of the oil pan?

Also just to note, I don't have the MPI
I have a 97 merc, 4.3 lx +
 
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rderenzy

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No Title

Picture confirms that the cover was attempted to be installed w/o the pan dropped, u can see the cover on TOP of the pan
also the bottom lip is grounded off to help "fit"

grrr

what goes on the left where those two open bolt holes are exposed?
 

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rderenzy

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disregard, this can be closed
not getting a new pan, mechanic already sealed it - even though we talked about getting a new one.
hoping for the best I guess
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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The base engine is the same for carbed and MPI.....

The 2 exposed bolt holes are normal. most engine blocks are cast and machined with a variety of applications. It may be that when that block is used in a car the A/C compressor is mounted there. Also, same applies for vehicle wiring harnesses. It's cheaper for the manufacturer to make one harness with all possible accessories wired into the loom and use that in all models of the same car. Then just add the accessories appliacble to the model. Example. My landcruiser is the based model, no power windows, electric mirros etc. But when I put them in, I just plugged straight into the existing harness. Plugs were already there. :D

Chris.....
 
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