Re: Engine swap advice needed.........
If you can run the motor in a good deep test barrel instead of the muffs you can rev it up a bit. (I don't recommend EVER revving a motor beyond a high idle on muffs with no backpressure on the exhaust.) When run in a barrel and BREIFLY revved to 3500 - 4000 RPM the pressure relief valves will open and water will spray out both exhaust relief ports on the back of the motor. The relief valves are the spring loaded plungers you saw when you took the T-Stat cover off. When the rubber seats the valves ride in get hard and deposits form the cooloing system build up those valves can get a little stuck, so if you don't get a spray when you rev the motor in a barrel or on the water you might want to check those valves and springs. The spray also is a good indicater of water flow through the head, which will answer your question about getting the tube lined up when you re-installed the lower unit.
If you can run the motor in a good deep test barrel instead of the muffs you can rev it up a bit. (I don't recommend EVER revving a motor beyond a high idle on muffs with no backpressure on the exhaust.) When run in a barrel and BREIFLY revved to 3500 - 4000 RPM the pressure relief valves will open and water will spray out both exhaust relief ports on the back of the motor. The relief valves are the spring loaded plungers you saw when you took the T-Stat cover off. When the rubber seats the valves ride in get hard and deposits form the cooloing system build up those valves can get a little stuck, so if you don't get a spray when you rev the motor in a barrel or on the water you might want to check those valves and springs. The spray also is a good indicater of water flow through the head, which will answer your question about getting the tube lined up when you re-installed the lower unit.
