Evinrude '99 E40PL4EE 40HP 4 stroke - no hi pressure pump noise

[gittarzann]

The connector to the pump has 12 volts on it when the key switch is on, but I went ahead and applied 12 volts directly to the pump with a ground directly to the battery also...nothing...

I'm going to try a few raps with a screwdriver handle and report back

 

[gittarzann]

Nothing...tried 24 volt bump and nothing also.

I pulled the intake off and opened the VST....smells horrible...

I tried to unscrew the pump but the phillips screw is seized so I sprayed some penetrant and will let it sit.


I think I am going to order a used VST and I'll wait for a while try and get the pump out of my old one when I can spend quality time with it.

 

[jakedaawg]

That little screw can get really stuck in there. I suggest a Phillips bit on a handheld impact driver. The style that you whack with a hammer. It's frozen because of dissimilar metals, the stainless steel screw and cast aluminum vs T housing

 

[jakedaawg]

If you can clean out the VST I believe all the individual parts are available separately. I also believe that the pump itself can be had much less expensive if you figure out which Mitsubishi I believe pump it is. It's the same pump and motor that's found in one of their cars. There is a member on here that used to mention it but I never figured it out.

 

[gittarzann]

Looks like UC-T30 Mitsubishi Part # on the top of the pump

 

[gittarzann]

I removed my VST and have opened it up.

I found a pump that says its the same part # as my boat (per Marine Engine dot Com) 5032617.

So I am going to try one I found on ebay. It says it might not fit a '99 but it looks identical so I am going to try it

 

[jakedaawg]

If you had a bunch of crud in the VST I strongly suggest you replace the pressure regulator as well

 

[gittarzann]

I was actually surprised the screens were clean and I didn't notice anything other that fuel in the tank.

 

[gittarzann]

Well I screwed up. I was torquing the intake manifold. The manual called for 16 - 18 so I set my torque wrench for 17 lbs. and I was running through my 3rd and final round of tightening and the #4 bolt started spinning. I moved to #5 and it the wrench snapped like it was supposed to. I went back to #4 and started to take it out and it just snapped off.

I have worked on broken bolts before, but not on something so expensive if I screw up.

Any suggestions on a route to go?


I was thinking I would buy some brass tubing that fits snug in the bolt hole on the intake manifold and then use a cobalt drill bit that fits snug inside the brass tube the brass tube would keep the drill bit centered in the hole as I eat away at the stainless bolt til I can re- tap and get another bolt in.

I also thought of making a bridge between 2 or 3 of the other manifold bolts and tapping the bridge to push down on that one spot on the manifold.

I am so bummed, my son is going to boot camp and wanted to go fishing at least once together before he left and now I don't know what to do????

 

[jakedaawg]

Machine shop...

you sure it's not inch pounds in the manual?

 

[jakedaawg]

Another thought...I dont think brass would work well as a drill guide/bushing...bronze at a minimum I would think.

I really think a machine shop is the best bet if you cant tig weld...depending on the looks of it you can weld some build up the broke part to get a tool on it to remove it.

I dont think a hand held drill motor would be accurate enough. If you attempt it make darn sure you use a left handed drill bit.

 

[gittarzann]

Probably a stupid question, but what would worse case scenario be if I try the motor as is?

 

[jakedaawg]

Could be lean and burn something up.