evinrude big twin 40553A

[Buccaholic4]

Big question, I would like to remove the lower unit, and install new water pump. Also service the whole lower unit, While lower unit is out, could I try to fire her up just to see if she is running? I know I will just fire to hear her run, make sure I have spark and all. Option B, is to get her in the water after service on lower unit. what would you all suggest?

 

[Buccaholic4]

Love this forum, sorry for all the questions.

 

[Buccaholic4]

Bought a Impeller today, shows two numbers on package. Sierra 18-3083 also 7222-EB34, original part number is 377230 I think is correct.

 

[F_R]

Starting it with the lower unit is off won't harm anything as long as you use common sense and don't let it run long enough to heat up (not very long at all). Some parts get hot very quickly---after all, there's fire in there.

377230 was replaced by 0777213. Sierra # is 18-3083. I don't know what the other #s are.

 

[oldboat1]

Thing is, common sense isn't all that common, and I guess I'm a little less trusting. Unless you are experienced with outboard operation and repair (and preferably that one), I would suggest not running until the lower unit is ready. The first acronym newbies seem to learn is WOT (and running for an hour at WOT seems to be the go-to cure all.)

You refer to servicing the whole lower unit, btw, and it isn't clear what you mean. Oil change and water pump service is typically the routine maintenance. If assuming you need to routinely disassemble and service the gearcase, you should probably slow down and ask some more questions. :nono:

 

[Buccaholic4]

Thanks, I stand corrected, I did the routine maintenance , thanks oldboat1, that's what I did. I will tell you, I'm actually having fun learning. no spark as of yet. A little frustrating, but learning. The only question have left is, the kill switch. Where is the kill switch? this is a 1965 IMP Apache, with a 1965 Evinrude Big Twin 40hp motor. Is there a kILL SWITCH WIRE NEAR THE COIL?

 

[racerone]

Find the 2 small black wires that go under the flywheel near the electric starter.-----Then OPEN one of the connectors.-------Kill circuit is now out of the picture.----Remove the flywheel with a 3 bolt puller.----Coils will need replacing if they are original and cracked !

 

[Buccaholic4]

I'll check them tomorrow

 

[Buccaholic4]

Pulled the lower unit out, with a hidden bolt that is long near the rear, behind the lower shroud. six plus the one. Water impeller was flexible and tried to regain form once removed. No visible cracks in rubber, no pieces missing from impeller. water tubes were blown out with compressed air. Housing had some very small pitting, and bottom plate looked new. I had to do my due diligence on the unit as I want to be the one to say, I know its condition. I will check the spark situation. Got to look for the black wires, I know two are for spark, I did see the other two.

 

[racerone]

Two small black wires were mentioned !-------Sparkplug wires were NOT mentioned.

 

[oldboat1]

I like pictures and diagrams: http://ww2.iboats.com/Magneto-Group...280954--session_id.067901217--view_id.1550187 This is a '68 magneto, but the kill wire assembly is #31-38 in the upper right. Engine is stopped by grounding out the magneto, either by a kill button or a key switch ("M to M" connection). Disconnecting the ground circuit as described above defeats the kill switch.

The no-spark condition is likely due to old coils, as mentioned, but the kill switch can also be problematic -- and easy to check.

Sounds like the cooling system is on track so far. When draining gearcase oil, milky color means water intrusion (probably know that). Also means a little more discovery work.

 

[Buccaholic4]

Water was intruding from the spaghetti gasket around the skag. Replaced it, so Im glad the cooling is aside. I just started logging on thru my phone. So now I can posts pictures. I appreciate all the help, but please dont try to down me. (I know what wires im looking at.) But i did see this yesterday, this picture has me wondering if there was a connection on the opposite side?(left connector)

 

[Buccaholic4]

I like pictures and diagrams: http://ww2.iboats.com/Magneto-Group-...iew_id.1550187 This is a '68 magneto, but the kill wire assembly is #31-38 in the upper right. Engine is stopped by grounding out the magneto, either by a kill button or a key switch ("M to M" connection). Disconnecting the ground circuit as described above defeats the kill switch.

The no-spark condition is likely due to old coils, as mentioned, but the kill switch can also be problematic -- and easy to check.

Sounds like the cooling system is on track so far. When draining gearcase oil, milky color means water intrusion (probably know that). Also means a little more discovery work.

That was a huge help on the diagrams, that really breaks it down. That the best way to learn it. Thank you millions, again Im learning this, by no way am I a expert. Never claimed to be, yet my experience as a mechanic, very similar. I appreciate all the help, Lets get it, mechanics...

 

[racerone]

Looked at a motor last year where a DEALER or his young MEKANIC had hooked up a wire to that open side of the safety switch.----That totally defeated the purpose of that switch.-----That switch prevents operation of the starter with throttle open to far !----It only needs a wire attached to one side !

 

[Buccaholic4]

I just realised that this motor has a 9.5 evinrude fuel pump. That will be on my to do list to tackle before getting this boat into the water. So it shows on many videos that the center screw holds a cover down, behind the cover is another screen? As a secondary filter? My inlet hose doesn't go to this cover like many others.

 

[racerone]

Nope ----They used an identical looking pump on the 40 HP models too !!.--------I am blunt I know.----I have many years of experience .-----Do not make statements saying that your motor has this or that if you are really not sure.----Sorry.

 

[Buccaholic4]

Nope ----They used an identical looking pump on the 40 HP models too !!.--------I am blunt I know.----I have many years of experience .-----Do not make statements saying that your motor has this or that if you are really not sure.----Sorry.

I'm pretty blunt myself, but I'm learning. I have never got along with people that talk down to anyone, so feel free not to comment if you feel that is your position. This is a thread about this motor, and supposed to be useful/helpful, not drive people away from working on there own motor. Again to everyone, I'm not trying to step on anyones toes, just seeking information from a good source. But as a admin of various other pages. Just looking for information, not a argument about not correctly identifying a part or system. Sorry you feel this way, wish you the best. I will have more pictures coming, got flywheel off, and looking at points and coils. Seems like the coils have magnets on the ends. Going to test the Coils with a meter nest. got some numbers of lees then 1.0 k ohm for primary and 3.0 to 8.0 k ohm on secondary. are these numbers true?

 

[oldboat1]

No expert on electronics, but would expect something like 4 or 5 resistance readings on the 1K scale on the secondary side (plug boot to ground). If the coil casings are cracked, just replace them -- might fire for a while, but will quit on you (likely when in the middle of the lake).

 

[racerone]

Take your motor all apart.---Bring it over in boxes.----I put it together without a glance at a manual.----Today some folks appear to be offended when it is pointed out that they are wrong.-----The 40 and the 9.5 had identical looking fuel pumps some years !!

 

[oldboat1]

In any case, don't fix it if it ain't broke. The original pump's hose connections are likely brittle and easy to break. It's true that the diaphragm might need replacement, but I would try to get the motor up and running first. The replacement pump is one of the small square models, although others may work.