Exhaust manifold cooling hose leaking by hose clamp

[robinsbd]

I am seeing water leaking out of the cooling hose right where it is clamped to the fitting on the bottom of the exhaust manifolds. This happens on both sides. I tried tightening the hose clamps more, but water still seems to leak there. Should I put some kind of gasket sealer where the hose clamps, or is there a better solution. I know I can replace the hoses, but I was hoping I didn't have to do that for a while.

​Thanks for the help!

 

[Bob79]

On the trailer, i would take it off clean the sealing surfaces fit some new clamps and put it back together.

 

[Bt Doctur]

cut the hoses back an inch and you will be ok

 

[alldodge]

Agree with BT, and will add I'm thinking you should be able to use standard 3/4 ID heater hose found at auto stores. Measure yours to make sure

 

[H20Rat]

If you can find some T-bolt clamps locally, they work far better than the crappy worm gear clamps. The worm gear clamps put uneven pressure on the hose, and gets worse the more you tighten it.

 

[robinsbd]

No Title

I removed and wiped the fittings and the inside of the hose ends. I re-clamped the hoses. The hose leaks seem to be stopped now.

​What I see now is water leaking around the manifold drain plugs. Is there anything I can do to stop the leak at the plugs. One thing I tried was to replace the O-rings with slightly bigger ones. The bigger O-rings leaked worse, so I put the standard O-rings back in. I still have a leak there, but not as bad.

Here is a pic of what my plugs look like:

 

[alldodge]

There is probably some rust on the flat part of the fitting, or maybe something else on there. You do want to use the correct size and if you don't have new ones I would suggest getting some.

 

[robinsbd]

I have new ones on there. I will take a look again at the fitting. Maybe something is stuck on there and causing a leak.

​Thanks!

I assume it is not normal to have to use gasket sealer there.

 

[alldodge]

I assume it is not normal to have to use gasket sealer there.

True, should never need sealer

 

[robinsbd]

I put the new drain plugs back in. It still leaked, so I took those out and then I put the original plugs back in that came with the boat.

The original was actually a hex head metal bolt with a large plastic washer.

As I screwed the bolt in, it got tight and then loose again. Great! Now the threads are probably stripped. When I took the bolt out, some rubber like pieces came out from the threads.

I tried once again to put the new plastic drain plug in, but now it just turns and will not stay in.

I'm trying to troubleshoot my carb / fuel issue, but now I can't do anything because my starboard manifold will just leak water.

 

[alldodge]

What probably caused the original problem was the bolt and washer (different threads)

I would suggest either buy new ones part number 22-806926A1 or Sierra 18-4224
http://www.iboats.com/Mercury-Marin...5740192--session_id.636000301--view_id.464100

Or get a brass 1/2 NPT male to male barbed fitting 90 degree at the hardware store (if you can find it)

 

[robinsbd]

AllDodge,
Thanks for the quick responses.

How hard is it to remove the existing elbows from the manifolds? Could it cause major issues with the manifolds trying to remove these!

Can this be done without removing the manifolds from the engine?

Thanks.

 

[alldodge]

Have yet to remove the plastic ones but don't see an issue so long as they don't crack and crumble. If the motor never over heated they should be good. The plastic fittings should have been installed without tools (hand tight), or with only a tool to finish the last 1/2 turn.

You should be able to remove without removing the manifold, but that depends on the access available, might need to hang upside down.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassembly/31865/2344/110

 

[robinsbd]

It looks like there is room there to maneuver. I think my fittings are metal. My main concern is to not mess up the threads on the manifolds. I just had the manifolds and risers removed this spring for cleaning and had all fresh gaskets installed, so I don't want to remove them again for a long time.

Are these standard threads where counter clock-wise removes them? Do you see any issues with replacing them with the plastic fittings, or do I need to stick with metal? Maybe it doesn't matter?

Thanks.

 

[alldodge]

Yes standard thread, lefty loosey

The ones called out for you serial number are the plastic ones, I have them on my motors, and have not had an issue. Replace the O-rings every year and have a few extra blue thumb screws and replace if there are any hint of an issue.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-MerCruiser-Exhaust-Drain-Plug-Elbow-Kit-22-862210A01-/281745005090

 

[robinsbd]

Well it turns out I do have the plastics ones. When I tried to remove them, they just broke. Now I have part of the old fitting still stuck in the manifold.

Here is a pic:

 

[robinsbd]

Here is another pic:

 

[Bt Doctur]

I know you dont want to hear this but manifold removal is required for repairs. And install the all brass ones this time. Those plastic drain things cause so many problems I remove then first chance I get and install the brass ones without the drain feature. Simply removing the hose to have it drain still works

 

[robinsbd]

Is this fitting all plastic?

What is that shiny ring close to the manifold?

 

[NHGuy]

That's the snapped off part that stayed inside the casting. OP just get some new water inlets, as B doc says the plain brass elbows. Install them with some teflon tape.
Then in the fall unclamp the hoses move the clamps a few inches up the hose and retighten them enough so they stay put for the winter. Remove the hoses from the barb so the manifold stays drained til next spring.
Also remove the ones to the block and stick a probe in there to break the scale of rust and allow the water out. Remove the bottom of the big j shaped water pump hose, and remove the hose on the port side of the block that goes into the metal tube.