Fastwin Lower Unit Seal FAQ?

Sea18Horse

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Messages
626
Re: Fastwin Lower Unit Seal FAQ?

Agree with all above. It's worth checking the smell however just in case. The two stroke frothy goo has a definite exhaust smell. If there's any lower unit lube in it you'll be able to smell it. It's distinctive :).

Cheers.............Todd
 

asdasc

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
680
Re: Fastwin Lower Unit Seal FAQ?

Thanks guys for all the help. I took it on the maiden voyage today. It starts right up. I took it out for a test spin on the old (recently redecked) pontoon boat and shifted, steered and throttled by hand while running around. We then built a temporary helm station to make it easier to drive. I need to use it for a barge for a while, then will convert it to a normal family pontoon boat. The return trip from the island was a 'one pull start'! I was so pleased. Then about half way back it started popping out of gear. The clutch dogs are in great shape, I know, so I am pretty sure I messed up the linkage connection during reassembly. Hopefully, I can get at it easily while the boat is still in the water. It sure runs well! Thanks for all the help.
 

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asdasc

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 28, 2008
Messages
680
Re: Fastwin Lower Unit Seal FAQ?

Hi all, just a quick update - I was able to fix the shift linkage today, and that was the problem. Somehow I put the wrong bolt in there and it was too small to hold the shaft in place. Once I figured that out, it ran great until I ran out of gas a 100 feet from the dock. I knew I was low on gas, but left the oil out on the island. So here I am with a fresh 5 gallons of gas (in a seperate can), and no oil, rowing like mad. By the time I got over here it was almost dark, so I will mix up the gas and try it again in the morning.

Always an adventure...
 
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coolguy147

Commander
Joined
Jul 14, 2008
Messages
2,817
Re: Fastwin Lower Unit Seal FAQ?

we need to get a thread like this in the FAQ section very helpful so far looks simliar to my 1958 35hp :D
 

stokejob

Cadet
Joined
May 6, 2011
Messages
8
Re: Fastwin Lower Unit Seal FAQ?

Well, that doesn't look like it went the way I imagined. The driveshaft seal is out now, but I gotta admit, it wasn't pretty. The inner ring of copper on the right came out first, then the outer ring. It looks like I managed to make a couple of gouges in the side where it should be nice and smooth for the press fit of the new bearing.

Should I try to take those sharp remnants out with some emery cloth? Or will driving in the new seal miraculously press those back from whence they came?

Next on the list is the propshaft seal. It is getting pretty late, I might have to wait on that one.

Any comments from anyone on things I could do differently would be appreciated. This is one of two housings I have, and the worst of them, so if all goes well, I will use it. Otherwise, this is my practice one and the other will be used.

By the way, I managed to put a little burr on the inside of the shift selector bushing while driving it out. It won't slip over the shift select rod anymore. I will have to figure out how to best align that again. If I had a good way to hold it I could use a gentle drill bit or even a reamer. Of course, I don't have a reamer....

Hello All,

I'm new here on iBoats but have been scouring the available info about resealing my lower unit. I have a 1973 Sportwin 9.5 and began disassembling it last night. Everything went very well and I found no damage to any parts. The 30+ year old O-rings even look usable! Of course I have all new parts to install but I just found that amazing in itself.

This forum thread has been very helpful to me so far - the "spade bit" trick for removing the shift selector rod bushing worked perfectly. My only problem is that when I drove out the bushing, it kinda rolled around on my workbench and I wasn't able to see which side originally faced up/down. It has a "beveled" and a "flat" side and I'm trying to figure out which way to re-install it. It seems to make sense that the beveled side would face the fat O-ring...?

Also, any tips for removing the bearing housing? I'm going to try some Permatex gasket remover tonight but I'm thinking there must be a good way to pry it off without damaging anything? Same goes for the propshaft seal? I have a "normal" seal puller... is that needed if I have everything apart or is there some way I can just knock it off?

Any help would be very much appreciated!

Shaun
 
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