FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

ecalzado

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Jun 10, 2003
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:confused: Brand new Twin 175's Evinrude Fichts w/ 25 hours and 3 water temp codes on port motor (computer diagnostic gave precisely 3 'engine overheat' codes) - water pressure gauge is not showing as much pressure as starboard<br /><br />condition happened at cruising speed of 25 knots at 4000 rpm's, trimmed 1/2 way on my Wellcraft 264 Coastal<br /><br />OMC said that maybe it was hydralic tie bar, sensors or thermo<br /><br />Mechanic having a look and agrees with OMC + said that it could be impellers burnt because of debris or poor water flow in the ECU unit - he also said poor rigging could be the problem (highly unlikely, based on expert rigger used) - I will not have feedback for one to two weeks, due to his backlog<br /><br />My 98 Fichts were a nightmare and had many things happen in 500 hours, including overheat/water temp lights too<br /><br />HELP?<br /><br />Thx<br /><br />E Calzado - Miami
 

jegervais

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Jan 18, 2002
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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

Twin engines have to be "toe-in" for proper handling and water flow. If they were improperly adjusted, it would aerate the water flow to one or possibly both engines. The adjustment for this is in the tie bar. I would have expected to see the engine overheat sooner than 25 hours if this were the case though - unless this is the first time you ran the engine at this rpm... Did the System Check lite come on and did the alarm horn sound when it overheated?<br /><br />I've also seen the occassional problem with a thermostat sticking, but that's usually a quick fix.<br /><br />Is your "expert rigger" the person who's going to check it out now? I would expect a little faster service than 2 weeks on a brand new rig...<br /><br />-John
 

ecalzado

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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

Dear John:<br /><br />Very nice of you to post a reply to my FICHT query.<br /><br />I have taken note of the 'toe-in' point you bring up....the local mechanic also mentioned this. Let's see what he says.<br /><br />The system light did come on, as well as the horn and once the computer was hooked up, it was confirmed that there were 3 "engine overheat codes". Mind you, the first time it happened, we let the engine cool off for a few minutes (at 14 hours) and then went on with our day......then, two more lights/alarms at 24 hours in a span of 5 minutes......then, we got on with out day.....and then, 2 days later I ran another hour on the motors at varying speeds with no problem.<br /><br />Do you think a thermo would stick on a brand spanking new motor? Also, what do you think of the theory a bag or something like that damaged the impeller (albeit, partially, as the issue only arises infrequently)? <br /><br />The mechanic said he would drop the lower unit and check that out.<br /><br />The "expert rigger" is 12 hours up the coast by boat, on the intracoastal. It will be difficult to get him to come to Miami, so I am working with a local reputable Evinrude rep.<br /><br />Any more advice/tips would be greatly appreciated. Notwithstanding, I will post the diagnostic once I receive word.<br /><br />EC
 

jegervais

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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

I have seen the thermostat stick on a new motor, not very often at all, but I've seen it. Remember, most of the parts are either built by or put onto the motor by a human - and sometimes they make mistakes... I know it's small comfort, but from what I've seen of the Bombardier-built Evinrudes and Johnsons, they're leaps and bounds better than the last OMC-built outboards.<br /><br />As far as the plastic bag theory, that's possible too, depends on how many "slobs" frequent your waterways. Same thing can happen with fishing line - I had to repair a customers gearcase beacause of a bad seal. When I took it apart, I found fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft. The fishing line damaged the seal, allowing water into the gearcase. I saved the fishing line and showed it to my customer. When I showed it to him, he got very angry with me (he probably figured I was lying to him as to why the gearcase failed - I don't know...). Anyway he claimed he didn't fish and no one ever fished from his boat. When I pointed out all the fishing boats in the harbor and that any one of them may have dropped the used line overboard and that he just happened to be the one who drove over it/picked it up, he finally calmed down.<br /><br />Please keep us posted on the outcome. Having a reputable, qualified service person goes a long way to making things right - I hope you have a good one.<br /><br />-John
 
Joined
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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

John from Illinois,<br /> I was very interested in that customer you spoke about who picked up fishing line. Can you expand on that story as to what kind of motor, and how much the repair was.<br /> <br /> thank's Al
 

jegervais

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Jan 18, 2002
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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

Al,<br /><br />Not much to expand on, believe it was a 115 Johnson cross-flow. Fortunately, he was in for routine service and I caught it in time, no major gear or bearing damage. Had to re-seal the prop shaft bearing housing and flush out the gearcase. Don't recall the cost, but wasn't outrageous a few o-rings a couple of seals and maybe an hour's labor.<br /><br />Beat the heck out of a set of gears, bearings etc...<br /><br />-John
 

ecalzado

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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

FICHT DIAGNOSTIC<br /><br />John:<br /><br />Seems like the "expert rigger" blew it.<br /><br />My local tells me the tie bar is not right and in fact their appears to be a toe in problem with the port motor. When he takes the boat to a certain angle, he notices the water pressure gauge on Port drops X pounds and believes this causes the water flow problem (I will also mention; the top of the impeller was burnt/blown).<br /><br />He will play with the tie bar and run it again. If the water pressure is still low, then he said he would get 'scoops' that are not yet available to the public (I assume he is obtaining this from someone at Evinrude engineering - I think he said this).<br /><br />I will let you know if we go only tie bar or scoop too. Hopefully, no more burned impellers and happy motoring after this fix.<br /><br />Does the story sound right?<br /><br />Thx<br /><br />EC
 

jegervais

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Jan 18, 2002
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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

Yup - sounds right to me.<br /><br />I've gotten a set of those scoops from the tech service guys before too, they really help the water pressure. I'll bet though, that once the tie-bar is adjusted correctly, you probably won't need the scoops.<br /><br />Keep us posted.<br /><br />-John
 
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Mar 18, 2003
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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

John from Illinois<br /> take a look at GearCase failure posted 6/13.<br /><br /> Al
 

seahorse5

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Jan 24, 2002
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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

Another cause for poor cooling is a transducer, thru-hull fitting, or speedo pickup mounted within 14" of the motor's centerline. Anything too close to the motor aerates the water and air bubbles do not cool an engine block very well.<br /><br />The easiest way to adjust a tie bar is to disconnect on end and take the boat for a ride. The "loose" motor will automatically seek the best position while underway. It will not flop back or forth, but will track with the steering motor. Measure the distance or adjust the tie bar while it's running, use common sense, of course.<br /><br />Watch the pressure gauges in a turn, if one starts to drop off, it may be because of a hull strake or an obstruction on the hull.
 

ecalzado

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Jun 10, 2003
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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

John from Illinois and Seahorse:<br /><br />Gents, thought I would drop a quick line/update.<br /><br />Port gauge water pressure improved a bit with "some" tie bar adjust. However, the Mechanic indicated this was as far as he could go with this tie bar without creating an unsafe condition (he also mentioned something about the bar being, perhaps, too short because it was cut for the rigging, etc.).<br /><br />He claims if the boat goes straight, all is fine....if he does smooth turns to port/starboard, then ok...but, too hard i.e. quick, fast half circle or 3/4 turn, etc.), then the pressure drops from 15/16 to about 11). He thinks the first alarm/code at 14 hours was a pure 'bag/debris' issue, that caused impeller damage. The two back to back alarms/codes at 23 odd hours was the tie bar problem.<br /><br />Anyhow, he will try the scoops first (should arrive in a few days). Hopefully, this will cause enough water flow that even with drops of pressure on sharp turns, water pressure should suffice. Does this sound ok??<br /><br />If not, then he says we may need to go for a new tie bar. Is this ok too??<br /><br />The old rig was twin 98 150 Fichts(new is 175 twin Envinrudes). I guess the old tie bar should have been changed from day 1 (??). Odd thing is that the boat never had this prob (with new motors). And, there have been nil changes insofar as new equipment, etc. Hull bottom and thru-hull transducer, respectively, have been the same for years.<br /><br />The only other odd thing is that my Lowrance fishfinder was acting crazy. I sent it back and Lowrance replaced it. They said the unit had a problem. However, if the prob persisted, then they said it was a transducer prob and they would send a new one. Problem with Lowrance has indeed persisted (at certain speeds it locks at 500 foot reading, in spite of 7 ft bottom).<br /><br />Beats me what could be wrong with the transducer? Anything from a 'hull bottom' perspective that could be causing erratic water/air flow, thus affecting both my port motor and transducer. I really can't see how the hull could have a bump (for lack of the term that escapes my mind right now)<br /><br />many thanks,<br /><br />EC
 

bollard

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Sep 29, 2003
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Re: FICHT 2003 PROBLEMS

FWIW<br /><br />To make a long story short, some yahoo stepped on my tie-bar and bent it, causing the toe-in of my 1998 ficht 115's to change. Water temp went up 15+ degrees.<br /><br />I adjusted the tie rod for 1/4" toe (some folks say 1/2", but yahoos' abound, so I hedged!) and all is well. Both engines are now running at about 165 degrees at 4000 to 5000 RPM.<br /><br />By 1/4" toe-in, I mean that the engines mounted 28" apart have a distance of 28 1/4" when measured at the rear of the (anti)cavitation plates.<br /><br />Note that when the engines were running hot, the water pressure was good, so the water must have been aerated.
 
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