First rebuild - '89 Campion Allante 185 - Stringers, Deck, Transom

[Chris51280]

a picture is worth a thousand words

 

[steve_h7]

a picture is worth a thousand words

:thumb:
Here's a drawing too in case the pictures are hard to figure out what is going on...
I'll put a couple layers of 1708 over the new and old plywood on the back side along with another layer on the exposed fiberglass side of the splash well and cap with a layer of CSM to help smooth it out for fairing.

 

[kcassells]

Steve,
I've been in 7th level of hell with Dante' for the last 10 days. They let me out.
So add a bevel to all edges of the existing splashwell @ 45 deg. where the joint is. Fill gap with the pb/1/4" galss. Hold back @ 1/8" from flush fill. Or you can grind it back again some just to make a fill gap for the glass.
Take @ 1" of gelcoat off all surfaces wherer new joint is going to be down to fresh glass.
Cut strips of glass, whatever you are using into small pcs./lengths. Ea. wider than the next. The goal is to fill middle area 1st, add, add more add more till the glass is humped up over the cut a little bit.
Sand flush, may need repeated then fair to paint. Fairing may take 2 to 3 x to get the right flush finish.
Hope this helps.

 

[kcassells]

The issue is the pb won't hold up and will crack sooner or later. The glass makes the strength/bond.

 

[steve_h7]

Thanks Kevin. I understand and will try to incorporate as many of your suggestions as possible.
PB has always only been a small part of the repair... as the drawing shows I planned to have multiple layers of 1708 on both sides of the cut. But I totally agree with making the cut area larger and using multiple layers of glass.... much like I did when I followed BoatWorksToday's video to repair the damage I caused on the hull in the deconstruction phase of the project. Like I said before, it seems like there's not a lot of info on how to reattach the splash well when going this route so I hope your suggestions will help others doing searches in the future too. Thanks for the input! :thumb:

 

[kcassells]

No there isn't a specific method cause of all the splash well variations I guess. The applied technique is correct though. Keep at it looks great!

 

[ACon977]

Nice work Steve! Looks great, I think the structure and base work is perfect. Smoothing out all the sharp angles like Kevin recommended will also help strength and ease of glassing.
Sanding down the gelcoat face will help to have it be a seamless transition from cap to hull without having a big scar. Congrats on the progress!

 

[steve_h7]

Thanks Austin.

I officially can say now that glassing laying on your back is on my list of things to avoid at all costs.
But it's done and, although far from perfect, I think it'll pass the 10' sight test. Two layers of 1708 on each side and I used the P14 I talked about earlier for fairing. Also got the bow box done and filled with more foam. I'm trying to fill in a mismatch of plywood edges and sand the rest of the deck to prep for gel coat.

 

[ACon977]

I think it looks great! Well done!

 

[steve_h7]

Thanks Austin!

I'm curious of those that have back to back seats and seat boxes, do you situate them even with each other, or the hull? I had them evenly spaced from the hull but it looked odd to me that they were not spaced evenly apart from each other front to back when looking at them from the rear, so I rearranged them evenly spaced from each other... but I'm not sure which would most see as "normal"?

 

[ACon977]

interesting... personally I would align them with the shape of the hull. so that you can maximize the floor space in the middle. as long as they are symmetrical across the boats center line I think it will look fine.

 

[steve_h7]

:thumb:
I think you're right. The more I looked at them with the seats installed on the boxes, the more I think your suggestion is the way I'll go.
Thanks again Austin!

 

[steve_h7]

After using the air driven brad nailer, I'm convinced it's the greatest invention since sliced bread. :thumb:
The rear seats support and foam boxes were a challenge because of the weird angles, but they're tabbed in and the boxes filled with foam. I glassed sacrifice wood on the floor of each side below where the seats will be to mount the batteries. The terrible looking trim around the splashwell is the original removed during the demo. I was using it to make measurements to be sure the seats would fit like the originals. I'll make new pieces and re-carpet them with what I salvaged from the hull sides. I started tabbing in the front seat boxes. I'll let those set up and then tab the interior tomorrow.
I hope everyone has a great 4th tomorrow! :usa2:

 

[kcassells]

Very nice, Back at you!

 

[dezmond]

Those are looking great! Nice to see them form to the sides. And the foam will be nice to keep her up a bit in the back end great job!

 

[sopwithcamel74]

Good stuff, man! You're humming along nicely now

Just curious - did you treat the wood in any way for those back seat boxes prior to tabbing them into place? Particularly interested in the foam-facing sides of ply there.

Also curious as to how many batteries you're going with, and if you'll mount one on each side or both to starboard. Sorry if rehashing from further back in the tread if you've already states as much as well; seems like it might have been addressed before.

 

[steve_h7]

Good stuff, man! You're humming along nicely now

Just curious - did you treat the wood in any way for those back seat boxes prior to tabbing them into place? Particularly interested in the foam-facing sides of ply there.

Also curious as to how many batteries you're going with, and if you'll mount one on each side or both to starboard. Sorry if rehashing from further back in the tread if you've already states as much as well; seems like it might have been addressed before.

Thanks!

And in hindsight maybe I should have, but no... other than coating the wood with a couple of layers of resin and then tabbing them in with 1708, that was it. They'll be pretty much sealed with a top that will be tabbed to the hull and to the other pieces. I probably should have put a layer of CSM on them too. I guess time will tell.

And I was going to put a battery on each side only because it's what I've seen other people do... but there's enough room to put both on either side. Just need to leave room for the switch to activate one or the other, or both.

 

[sopwithcamel74]

Thanks!

And in hindsight maybe I should have, but no... other than coating the wood with a couple of layers of resin and then tabbing them in with 1708, that was it. They'll be pretty much sealed with a top that will be tabbed to the hull and to the other pieces. I probably should have put a layer of CSM on them too. I guess time will tell.

And I was going to put a battery on each side only because it's what I've seen other people do... but there's enough room to put both on either side. Just need to leave room for the switch to activate one or the other, or both.

'A couple of layers of resin', in my opinion, is likely wholly sufficient I think you're fine having just done that - just wanted to know your method, as a lot of what you're doing are things I'll also be doing in my build.

I plan on taking the cooler out from underneath my port side jump seat and putting a house battery there, as I was wary of putting that much weight to starboard. Just makes more sense given mine is only a 17ft boat.

 

[steve_h7]

Thanks for the input.
My starboard side originally had the battery along with the stock Mercury oil injection system which was bypassed by the PO so I tossed that and now have more room. The port side had what I think was a live bait well under the seat and the 2nd battery was crammed behind the seat back and sitting on the top of the plywood seat support top. I don't do a lot of fishing and mainly will use the boat for just cruising and camping so I chose not to put that back in and use the space for the other battery. It does seem to make sense to try and balance the weight but I'm single and probably will use the boat alone most of the time so figuring the weight of the whole boat, I'm not sure if you wanted to put them both on one side, if you'd even see the difference. Interesting discussion though but I figured if I had the option I'd go ahead and put one one each side :thumb:

 

[ACon977]

Nice work Steve! Those Air Nailers are phenomenal, use mine for damn near everything.

Doing a couple coats of sealing resin will be fine for water proofing, it probably soaked into the wood fibers and it shouldnt get wet so long as you have the boat!