First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

[psykosteel]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

I think it was about 120$ for the foam I bought to do my boat, and it figures to be a little more than I'll need. Jigngrub figured it up for me, and I had calculated waaaay over what it will actually take. Basically, oops was saying lay down pipes in the network you see fit for drainage to and through your limber holes, then lay a layer of plastic over it all. Pour the foam, it molds to the bottom of the hull, and the stringers, and over the pipes. But you can lift it out since it was poured in the plastic, it isn't adhered to anything. Remove the pipes, and put the foam back down between the stringers, and it has the channels molded in now for the pipes. If water works its way through the foam, though, to the bottom, now it sits in the plastic .

Thanks MWE, $120 seems reasonable. Would the plastic at the bottom be bad and trap water? Seems like it kind of defeats the purpose or am I just thinking about it wrong.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

It can help in that you don't have to worry about the shape of the hull distorting at the top where the cap goes on so that the cap doesn't fit right. On the other hand, you have to worry about the weight of the cap pressing down on the floppy hull and distorting it in some way. I left my cap on and ran quite a few ratchet straps around the boat, as well as a few from several tie offs on the cap to the roof on my carport to help lighten up the cap some.

 

[psykosteel]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

I'm strongly considering decapitating the stringers and pouring in some Seacast instead of doing an all out replacement of the stringers. For the most part it would allow me to work on an individual stringer without disturbing the others.

Of course all those bulges on the stringers and the other glass problems on the hull will be addressed first as well as laying down a couple of extra layers of the biaxil cloth over the whole hull. I figure a little reinforcement wouldn't hurt a bit.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

That would be costly. I've only glanced at prices out of curiosity, but that pourable stuff is high!

 

[psykosteel]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

Something weird in the front of the hull just below the cap... the two studs with the bolts you see in the pic are for the bow eye bolt. I'm not sure what that odd shaped thing is in front of that though?



Not sure why, but my comments on the image aren't showing up. If you click the image you'll see my commentary. It's the weird thing in the background above the bolts though.

 

[psykosteel]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

That would be costly. I've only glanced at prices out of curiosity, but that pourable stuff is high!

Yeah I'll have to take some measurements and determine how much I would need. There is less glass to do it this way though so it may offset the price. I would also not have to worry about rott.

 

[psykosteel]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

I left my cap on and ran quite a few ratchet straps around the boat, as well as a few from several tie offs on the cap to the roof on my carport to help lighten up the cap some.

Ill use ratchets and possibly build some support via a cradle. Thanks for the tip.

 

[rickryder]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

You can support the hull by building knee walls along the outer chines of the hull to help keep some pressure off the rollers so they don't distort the bottom.

 

[psykosteel]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

Thanks rickryder... so I can keep it on the trailer, just add more support where needed. Great that is some of the best news I've had this week.

I had all these weird visions in my mind of jacking the trailer up 6 inches or so and then building the cradle around it, then lowering the trailer and pulling it out.

Hopefully the motor pull goes well this weekend and I don't find any rott in the lower transom areas that are below the back deck I haven't removed yet. If not it's not the end of the world as I read some other threads and watched some great youtube vids from Frisco showing transom repair/replacement.

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

I've seen somewhere where the person slid 1x4's or 1x6's the length of the boat between the rollers and hull to keep them from distorting the hull or punching through

 

[psykosteel]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

I've seen somewhere where the person slid 1x4's or 1x6's the length of the boat between the rollers and hull to keep them from distorting the hull or punching through

Thanks Bomber G... That would be great too. I've spent some time looking through posts and looking at how others have built gantries <sp? to lift their boats and motors. My other thought is to use the engine hoist and lift one side of the hull by the back tie down eye loop, slip in some 1 x 6's and then proceed with the other side. I'm still worried a bit about distortion though. I guess take some measurements first and then after to see if the hull shifts or distorts?

 

[rickryder]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

Still having the cap on and most of the structure intact the hull should not sag or flex when you get it on the cradle or support system you use... Putting 2x6 along the rollers is good but make sure you carry the outer most chines of the hull also... I didn't do that when I did my resto and my windshield won't close properly....I have about a 3/4" gap.

 

[psykosteel]

Re: First resto project boat, question about foaming and draining.

Still having the cap on and most of the structure intact the hull should not sag or flex when you get it on the cradle or support system you use... Putting 2x6 along the rollers is good but make sure you carry the outer most chines of the hull also... I didn't do that when I did my resto and my windshield won't close properly....I have about a 3/4" gap.

Thanks RR, always appreciate the tips.