First time boat owner and new to the forum.

Walex0

Recruit
Joined
Aug 10, 2020
Messages
5
Hi I’m a first time boat owner and also new to the forum. I am mechanically inclines though. Yesterday I picked up a 1974 cobalt 18’ tri hull With a trailer for a pretty good deal. Got the engine started today and it’s running. However, under the motor the fiberglass is cracked and pulled up. What’s the procedure for this repair? I don’t believe there is wood under this part. Also I have a water leak in the stern drive, where there is a gasket. Any info on this? Pictures attached. Thanks in advance.
 

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ThomW

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
615
As far as the cracked fiberglass goes, I guess the repair would depend on the severity of the crack. To fix it correctly, it may require pulling the motor, thoroughly cleaning the area, and having someone who does fiberglass work go in and tape and repair the glass.

The water leak seems to be coming from the bell housing installation gasket. Not sure why is pouring water like that. Maybe previous "mechanic" tried getting lower unit off by prying it away with a screwdriver and then reused the gasket or damaged the actual bell housing or lower unit? You are going to need to pull the lower unit off, then inspect it to see why the seal is leaking so much.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,423
Hi I’m a first time boat owner and also new to the forum. I am mechanically inclines though. Yesterday I picked up a 1974 cobalt 18’ tri hull With a trailer for a pretty good deal. Got the engine started today and it’s running. However, under the motor the fiberglass is cracked and pulled up. What’s the procedure for this repair? I don’t believe there is wood under this part. Also I have a water leak in the stern drive, where there is a gasket. Any info on this? Pictures attached. Thanks in advance.

there is rotten wood under there.

start by going to the DIY sticky at the top of the forum and read links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in their entirety.

then pull the drive, pull the motor and fire up the tools of destruction.

plan on $2500-$3000 in incidentals, materials, etc. for the hull. you will need to set aside a bit for the the motor and drive as well.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
"Pretty Good deal" is always the one that gets you.The only thing worst is getting a boat "free".

So now that you have your first boat, time to face reality. The transom on your boat is totally shot. By totally shot I mean the transom is rotted out. And the fix for that is ripping out the rot and replacing the transom with new wood and fiberglass.

I know that isn't what you wanted to hear, but dancing around the truth never gets you anywhere. As bad as that sounds, you came to the best place to get assistance, help and ideas. And don't think you are the only one that bought a boat at a "Pretty Good Deal" only to find out there is serious work ahead of you. Most boaters on these forums arrived here in that same premise as well.

So read those suggested stickies and then start asking questions. So many fantastic boaters on here that will be glad to explain everything to you and help you do the job the correct way.

Also, post pictures of your boat so we can see what you are dealing with. That way we can direct you to the best possible ideas and suggestions to repair everything.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,199
1974 Cobalt . . . probably wood not fiberglass. Best to check the rest of the structure for soft spots wetness, etc. Use an ice pick or sharp screw driver to poke at things to see if it punches through . . .

As far as the outdrive . . . Old Merc MC-1 :noidea: there should be an o-ring or gasket, but I'll let the Merc historians chime in . . .

you got your check book and credit card ready to rock ???? :D
 
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