Re: Fixing up my 14ft MFG Niagara. w/pics
I,m going to screw the plywood together, cut holes. Cover it with glass Should it wet out the ply before i cover it with glass? What should i do so the holes don't let water in. I need to get drain inserts, the brass ones were shot. Then tab the transom to stringers and then repair the deck. Ill have to go reread everything but its a good start.
If you have a nice, flat place to clamp down the transom *I* would run a layer of mat and resin between the pieces before screwing them together and then wrapping them with mat and resin.
As far as the stringers: I believe there was intentionally left some space at the rear for drainage from the factory- so no water could get trapped in the hull bottom. In other words, the stringers may be tied to the transom inner skin (tabbed) but they probably need to be open at the rear skin. The bulk of the lateral loads is transferred to the hull and transom intersection anyway... and most the of the longitudinal load is at the very top of the transom, transferred to the hull sides by the long (relatively) vertical intersection with the hull sides. When I did mine I used CCA 2x10 material. The only stress lines (micro-cracks) are at the VERY top of the intersection of the transom and hull sides.
Another thought before you get "wrapped" - I rebuilt my transom about 10 years or so. I actually built it higher then the (apparently) factory height by about 3 inches and then cut the narrowest section possible from the transom center to install the motor at the proper height. On my '64, this raised the motor about 5 inches (or more? Can't remember...) and cured my water-over-the-transom disease that I had. I *wish* I had actually raised it HIGHER (to about 3/4" below the top of the gunwale caps) since the motor cutout area works fine. Maybe not as relevant with yours because you have a splash well but in retrospect I might have liked it better to have replicated the gunwale caps and "turned the corner" right up to the motor cutout. I think it would look better and when I am out fishing in rough water it would add a margin of safety. Then again, other than backing into the wind on only a couple of occasions over the last ten years, I have never had any water over the transom...
For little boats I really can't think of anything other than maybe a self-bailing whaler-style that I would rather be in if I was going to be in waves in a small boat.
As far as the brass tubes: You can get them at West Marine or any tackle or gun shop that deals with Ellet Brothers distributors can order them for you. You don't install them until you are all done and painted or whatever. The lower "ballast" chamber drain Probably could be installed before the transom goes in. HOWEVER, if you ever have a problem with it it will be a pain to get out.
Anyway, the bottom drain: I drilled a few 3/16" holes on one side about 1/2" from the exit end and mounted the tube with the three holes positioned down to allow full drainage (concerned about ice in my area). I use 5200 or 4200 around the hole and a thin bead around the ferule and push it into place. It cures in is basically permanent. The higher tube drains the miniature cup-sized floor bilge. While 5200 will seal that in place it also should be swaged into place with a tool that flares the end. Slide the tube in dry, mark the tube where it comes through the transom, cut it with a tubing cutter 3/16-1/4" longer than mark, goop the hole good with 5200 on both ends, slide the tube in and use the flaring tool to put it into place. DON'T clean the 5200 up- let it cure so that you have a nice uncompromised seal from the 5200. You *can* trim it later with a razor blade if you feel the need.
Hope this helps- looking for others to chime in with their observations. I don't know /everything/
