Flushing port on 2012 VP 300 C-A

[Donald0039]

The is a blue cap to a flushing port next to the head of the engine. Garden hose fitting. What is to prevent the water from going back out through the outdrive inlet instead of into the sea water pump? And what prevents the sea water pump from pulling in air through the outdrive inlet? Assume boat not in the water.

 

[Scott Danforth]

having the garden hose on supplies water.

if you rev the motor over idle, it will suck air thru the drive

 

[Donald0039]

having the garden hose on supplies water.

if you rev the motor over idle, it will suck air thru the drive

I was considering using a Milwaukee M18 transfer pump to pump in antifreeze from a 5 gallon container into the flush port with the engine idling.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Why not follow the procedure in the factory manual?

 

[Donald0039]

I was going to finish winterizing my boat on Nov 6th and went to the marina that Sunday but starting Nov 1 they are not open on Sundays until spring. Too bad as it was a nice warm day.

I am down to the wire now before it gets below freezing. Marina turned off the outside water today.

The VP manual days to drain the raw water portion of the engine. The closed water cooling system should be fine.

Draining the raw water side requires removing the large hoses from the raw water pump. That may be difficult with temps in the upper 40s. I had wanted to be able to run the engine to warm things up to make pulling the hoses easier. Or wait for a warm day.

Considering pulling the fuel filter and filling it it with 2 cycle fuel and briefly running the engine briefly. Maybe pull the raw water pump and start the engine. That would not damage the raw water impeller.

So using a transfer pump to pump antifreeze into the raw water pump and then through the raw water side of the engine which would eliminate the need to drain the raw water sidem.

Other ideas?

 

[Scott Danforth]

So using a transfer pump to pump antifreeze into the raw water pump and then through the raw water side of the engine which would eliminate the need to drain the raw water sidem.

Other ideas?

No, it doesn't

You must drain first. PERIOD

You will never generate enough heat to open the thermostat and your block will still be filled with water even if you ran 250 gallons of AF thru the motor

Pull the hoses, pull the plugs, drain the water

 

[Donald0039]

No, it doesn't

You must drain first. PERIOD

You will never generate enough heat to open the thermostat and your block will still be filled with water even if you ran 250 gallons of AF thru the motor

Pull the hoses, pull the plugs, drain the water

It has closed cooling so VP VCS coolant in the engine and exhaust manifold. I just need to winterize the raw water side. No thermostat involved.

 

[Lou C]

Do you have electric there? If so you could use a hair dryer or heat gun to CAREFULLY warm the hoses up enough to remove them. You can use a couple of picks to get the hose to loosen up. Ideally use an IR temp gun to monitor the heat…keep it under about 125* of so…then when you get them off use a bit of marine grease on the pump inlet & outlet to make it easier to remove next time. I put marine grease on all the hose fittings on my raw water cooled engine & they always come off without a struggle because it reduces corrosion in the cast iron fittings. After a long time with no grease they can get REALLY stuck on there….due to salt water use….

 

[Scott Danforth]

It has closed cooling so VP VCS coolant in the engine and exhaust manifold. I just need to winterize the raw water side. No thermostat involved.

If you are hell-bound to not drain, then blow out the water first

VP only does half systems, so unless you confirm that there is AF in the manifolds, I would drain them first.

 

[Donald0039]

If you are hell-bound to not drain, then blow out the water first

VP only does half systems, so unless you confirm that there is AF in the manifolds, I would drain them first.

I struggled with overheating exhaust manifolds this summer due to air in the closed cooling system so I am almost positive the exhaust manifolds are filled with coolant.

I am fine with draining if I can get all the hoses off.

 

[Donald0039]

Do you have electric there? If so you could use a hair dryer or heat gun to CAREFULLY warm the hoses up enough to remove them. You can use a couple of picks to get the hose to loosen up. Ideally use an IR temp gun to monitor the heat…keep it under about 125* of so…then when you get them off use a bit of marine grease on the pump inlet & outlet to make it easier to remove next time. I put marine grease on all the hose fittings on my raw water cooled engine & they always come off without a struggle because it reduces corrosion in the cast iron fittings. After a long time with no grease they can get REALLY stuck on there….due to salt water use….

What about pulling off the raw water pump that should be the same as pulling off the hoses? And or could put the raw water pump with hoses attached in a bucket of hot water for a few minutes.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you are sure its a full system.

I used to pull the impeller every year when I had to winterize. put the impeller, cover, screws and block drains in a baggie zip-tied with the keys to the steering wheel

 

[Donald0039]

if you are sure its a full system.

I used to pull the impeller every year when I had to winterize. put the impeller, cover, screws and block drains in a baggie zip-tied with the keys to the steering wheel

It's a OXI model. Made with options for salt water.

 

[Lou C]

I think once you get the hoses off and grease the fittings that they go onto, you won't have trouble in the future. The first time I did it years ago it was a tough job, then I got smart and coated all the fittings on the themostat housing and front water pump with Evinrude triple guard grease, it really helps.

 

[Donald0039]

I think once you get the hoses off and grease the fittings that they go onto, you won't have trouble in the future. The first time I did it years ago it was a tough job, then I got smart and coated all the fittings on the themostat housing and front water pump with Evinrude triple guard grease, it really helps.

Well it's going to be 46F on Saturday and got to get it winterized.

 

[Donald0039]

The hoses came off with much issue. Everything is now drained in the raw water side.

The anode screwed into the heat exchanger looked more like a drain plug than a sacrificial anode.

 

[Lou C]

Sounds good I bet you’re glad you got it done. It’s just starting to hit freezing here…

 

[Donald0039]

Yes glad it's done. Looks to be going down to 22F Sunday.

Just need to cover the boat to prevent dust for the winter. It's inside on a rack.

 

[muc]

The hoses came off with much issue. Everything is now drained in the raw water side.

The anode screwed into the heat exchanger looked more like a drain plug than a sacrificial anode.

If it is more them 50% gone ---- replace it.

 

[Donald0039]

If it is more them 50% gone ---- replace it.

Yes. It will be on my spring list to do. But given the boat is stored on a rack I am not sure how much I need anodes at all. But I will certainly have all of them and in proper condition.