foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Docktor

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Hello, working on the boat today and noticed that there is what looks like old sprayed in foam under the top of the bow. WHY? It is also filled up in along the sides. Would anyone know if this was done by the manufacturer or later by an owner? Thanks
 

Mark42

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Yes, MFG did spray foam under the front deck and under the gunnels. There was some left in my Niagara that I ended up removing because most had been previously removed, and the balance was falling off.

MFG's choice to foam the undersides of the boats cap was a good one. Even if the foam has fallen apart over the years, at least it did not soak up water like the more common under floor foam did.

In addition to keeping the foam dry, the high location prevents the boat from flipping over when fully swamped. So it is safe to sit inside the swamped boat with out fear of being dumped out.

The Coast Guard now specifies these high locations as the preferred location for flotation foam over the under floor areas.

MFG was ahead of its time in the 1960's with their foam locations and matched die pressurized hull molds.
 

Docktor

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Thanks Mark42 youv'e really helped me out more than you know. Did you ever fill your niagara with water to see if it had any leaks?
 

Mark42

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Thanks Mark42 youv'e really helped me out more than you know. Did you ever fill your niagara with water to see if it had any leaks?

No, I didn't fill with water. Some people do that, but you have to be aware of how much weight is being added, and if the trailer will suppport the load, as well as the hull where it is sitting on the trailer. Do you suspect there are holes in the hull from screws or something? Usually screw holes show up as a rust spot. There were holes all along the hull about 8" below the rub rail from snaps that were attached to hold a cover. Those I filled with epoxy and they have held for me since 1999 or so.

I found that the brass tube for the drain plug had started to corrode and was letting water into the transom. Quick fix was to polish the tube with steel wool and smear some epoxy on the pin holes, then sand smooth so the plug would seal. I still have to get around to replacing the tube. Something to check on your MFG.

Also check the running lights on the bow. On the Niagara they were not sealed with gaskets or sealer, and water that splashes on the bow can drip right through. You may not notice it at first because it is out of sight while behind the wheel. Also check the bow eye for being tight. If it moves AT ALL when winching the boat, it needs to be removed and fixed. In my case, the wood block behind the bow had broke loose from the hull and the bow eye would move around. So again, some epoxy put the block back in place (construction adhesive like PL Premium brand will work well here) and put the eye back. The eye on my Niagara was bronze and chrome plated. Plating is expensive, so I just polished it up. Besides, the hook will just scratch up the chrome anyway. Be sure to use a marine sealer on the outside like 3m 4200 or Boatlife. The marine sealer available at Walmart is similar to 3M 5200, and is permanent. Don't use 5200 on anything you might want to take apart down the road!!!

Glad to help.

Got some photos of the Carefree?
 

ezmobee

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

I'd love to see some pics of this boat as well. I have not heard of the model Carefree.
 

Mark42

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

I'd love to see some pics of this boat as well. I have not heard of the model Carefree.

This is from the 1967 sales brochure. Looks a lot like the Niagara, in a 13 foot version.

Holy Cow! That boat is rated for a 40hp! I bet it does 35 mph with one or two people. My Niagara did 30 tops with just me and 40 hp.

attachment.php
 

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Yacht Dr.

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

This is from the 1967 sales brochure. Looks a lot like the Niagara, in a 13 foot version.

Holy Cow! That boat is rated for a 40hp! I bet it does 35 mph with one or two people. My Niagara did 30 tops with just me and 40 hp.

attachment.php

Wholy Pond puddle jumpers !.. Id be terrified as the poor lady in yellow thinking " get the friggin shot so I can get out of this thing !! " :) LOL !!

Just me though :)

YD.

PS. just look at the poor dog looking like " Duuude.. Your kidding right " .
 

Docktor

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Oct 25, 2010
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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Thanks Mark42. Yes I need to put some pics up. I'll work on that. The picture you posted is the only one I could find as well. I have a 1960 25h sea king (motor)and I think it should scoot along ok. This boat may be pretty chinsey to some but it was given to me as is. I am having fun working on it and I think it will make a good little fishing boat. No, there are no holes in it so there is no need to fill with water. However, there only a few things left to get for restoration. I have decided to keep the original windshield for now since I can get rid of alot of hazing. Having gone over your section of windshield replacement it was very helpful. My windshield is riveted and maybe glued in the frame. And I am looking for the top gasket that goes in between the windshield and the frame. Thought taylor made would have some online but I can't seem to find any yet. Any ideas? Anyway, thanks.
 

Mark42

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Thanks Mark42. Yes I need to put some pics up. I'll work on that. The picture you posted is the only one I could find as well. I have a 1960 25h sea king (motor)and I think it should scoot along ok. This boat may be pretty chinsey to some but it was given to me as is. I am having fun working on it and I think it will make a good little fishing boat. No, there are no holes in it so there is no need to fill with water. However, there only a few things left to get for restoration. I have decided to keep the original windshield for now since I can get rid of alot of hazing. Having gone over your section of windshield replacement it was very helpful. My windshield is riveted and maybe glued in the frame. And I am looking for the top gasket that goes in between the windshield and the frame. Thought taylor made would have some online but I can't seem to find any yet. Any ideas? Anyway, thanks.

Hey that boat is not chincey at all! Its a classic!

In fact, you will have a blast driving it. Small boats handle like go karts on the water, just tons of fun even with a small motor.

Regarding the windshield gasket, it is still available. It can be found here:

http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/32-826500.htm

32-826500.jpg


I think they also carry the vinyl insert for the aluminum rub rail. Call them and ask. Its usually fairly cheap for a boat part, and what is on the boat is usually pretty chewed up at this age. BTW, do not damage the aluminum part of the rub rail. Do not cut it up or toss it out. Treat it like its made of gold, because if you go to replace it, you will cry at the expense.

Even if dented or damaged in places, it would be much cheaper to bring the damaged section to a good body shop to have them message it back into shape. There were two dented sections on my rail. Ended up making my own tool from 1x1/8 steel in an L shape to slip inside and pry the outer lip back out. Worked like a charm. Polish up the aluminum and shoot with clear rustolium. Then install the new vinyl. While the vinyl strip is out, its a good time to remove the rail (screws every 18" or so), clean behind it, and reinstall. It is probably loose in some places anyway. Drill holes in new location so the old screws hold tight, or buy a slightly larger screw and use the old holes. Don't forget the sealer. Don't use silicone. No need to seal the rail to the boat, because it seals off nothing. Just seal the screw holes.

Seats are usually an item that takes a beating. How are the seats?

How's the steering?
 

Docktor

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Oct 25, 2010
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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Hey Mark42, thanks for the link. I found a couple of places online to buy my rub rail insert and windshield to deck trim. It's just the upper trim. The smaller vinyl insert that slips into the space between the shield and aluminum frame. I will figure how to transfer my pics from photobucket. Anyway, the seats are replacement back to back. They were not even bolted in the hull. I had to replace the wood frames and cut down by half the seat base. The seats in this thing need to be lowww. If you noticed in the pic you posted, the original seats are below the midline crease on the side hull. That is a seat that's only 4-5" from floor. The steering is ok. I have replaced the cable and springs. The steering wheel has severe oxidation. The plastic is powdery. I want to keep it because the hub piece has the three-shark logo on it. I will try to sand it down to a harder surface an I have bought plastic paint. I'll see what it looks like then. Lastly, I would like to put a carpet on the floor. Hopefully can apply carpet with a glue that will work. Thanks all.
 

Docktor

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Oct 25, 2010
Messages
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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Thanks ezmobee, I, unfortunately, am near a Lowes and will look for those products. Just deciding how to end carpet halfway up the sides without having to put screws in the hull.
 

ezmobee

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

I ordered it all online (carpet, adhesive, notched trowel). Granted they did have a free shipping deal on only like a $50 minimum purchase at the time. The price was so good on the carpet, I ended up getting a 20' roll for less than I would have paid for the 16' I actually needed from elsewhere.
 

Mark42

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

I cut down the seat bases on my Niagara too. Wanted to get my field of vision below the windshield frame. In fact, to prevent the seats from sitting in a V configuration (closer together in the front than the back) I cut back the outside front corner about 6" or so so it would match the contour of the hull. (like they are riding up the hull) That let the seats sit nearly parallel, and gave more clearance to pass between them.
 

Mark42

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Re: foam in 1967 mfg carefree

Thanks ezmobee, I, unfortunately, am near a Lowes and will look for those products. Just deciding how to end carpet halfway up the sides without having to put screws in the hull.

A simple solution is to cut the carpet an inch or two wider than needed. Cut neat and straight. Then glue and fold the carpet back on its self before gluing to the floor/hull. It will make a raised lump along the side, but if the cut was nice and straight, and the fold over is uniform, it will not look odd and leaves a finished edge without trim or screws needed.
 
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