Force 150 hp running problems

[jerryjerry05]

You test the stator?
Check the wires for a bad ground or a loose connection.
Wire hitting the flywheel?
Look for TDC ?

 

[Jozone]

Stator on this one is only for loading the battery right? Have only 2 yellow wires from it.

a bit unsure as how to mesure it properly, when i checked under the flywheel i had no black gunk comming out from it.

Have check all wires.
Cleaned out the startermotor and polished the mating surface, installed an extra grounding cable to it for better ground.
no wire hitting the flywheel at all.

Flywheel key and tdc okey.

Had it running for a while since i got spark and then no spark again.

Measured the trigger and all wires where about 4mV to White/black wire as specified on cdielectronics guide.
Seam to have HZ on the rectifier too, mesured with my multimeter in HZ mode and it jumped around.

Disconected the blue wire from inverter and from switchbox it jumped around a little on small voltage.

Inverter seams to be the logical problem right now.
Blue wire loses voltage after a while

Might have figured out my blowback problem since it comes and goes, the adapter for the carb has 2 broken of mountingholes, will try to fix this somehow with industry epoxy.

 

[Jiggz]

Yes i have, does not help alot i feel like.

I messured the inverterbox at cranking and its as follows:

red: 9,7v
purple/white: 0,4v messured with AC on my meter
ground is good.
Blue no indication at all.

So i dont really know if its the switchbox or inverter thats acting up right now

9.7 volts to the red wire is not enough to start run the converter box. There should be 12VDC or battery voltage on this terminal/wire. Try fully charging the battery first (and clean the batt terminals thorougly) and then try again. Testing this particular ignition system is quite easy by voltage checking the following while cranking"

Red - Blk (Ground) = 12VDC
Blu - Blk (ground) = 100~200 VAC (note AC)
Vio (pur)/Vio-Wht - Blk (ground) = should be trigger voltage which should be ~4V+

If there's no 12VDC on the red wire, check make sure battery is fully charged and wiring is not disconnected or cut off. Or this could also mean the ignition switch is faulty

If no voltage on Blue wire but has pulsating/trigger voltage on Vio/Wht wire - most likely a faulty converter box

If no voltage on blue wire and no pulsating/trigger voltage on Vio/Wht wire - most likely a faulty switch box.

Lastly, ground wire, very important make sure it's properly connected and working.

If for some reasons you do not get the above voltages on blue and vio/wht wires, try disconnecting each from the converter box terminal and take voltage check from the terminals again. It'll also be wise to disconnect the blk/yel wire from the SB while testing.

 

[Jiggz]

The stator on this particular ignition system is the only one of its kind in that it's purely for charging the battery purpose only. All other Force ignition uses the stator for ignition but not this one. If you notice, there are only two yellow wires coming from the stator and connects directly to the rectifier with the output to the battery through the starter relay.

 

[Jozone]

The red wire has about 12.5 v when am not cranking the engine right now.
At cranking i get 10+ then it slowly goes down as i keep spending battery power. should this be 12v when cranking too?

I read some wear in was enough with just 9,5v as minimum.

Trigger voltage i have seen is at 0.4v and not 4v+ i will check again.

But consistently every time i have problem with spark its been dead at the blue wire.

will ohm test the wires to see if they are bad inside.

The black yellow wire has 8500 ohm when i check against ground and has bean disconnected the whole time.

Right now i have started the engine with the help of a screwdriver at the starter relay and ignition in open position.

Might just run new ground wires to all connections to try if it gets better.

I had it running for a while today and then suddenly i lost spark

 

[Jiggz]

The trigger volt is a high speed transient voltage that can only be accurately measured with a DVA. If you are using an rms type DVM, you're probably getting trigger pulse voltage except it's read inaccurately. The lack of AC voltage output on the blue wire is an indication the converter could be faulty, but not totally accurate since a faulty ground wire will also prevent such output.

If you were able to ran it for awhile and then suddenly lost sparks again, you should try getting the voltage reading on the blue wire immediately just to see if there is something overheating (or a loose ground wire) in the converter that prevents ac voltage output to the blue wire. You can even place a DVM attached to the blue wire and ground to monitor the output voltage, when running.

Again, if there's output on the blue wire and you have no sparks and the black/Yel wire is disconnected, the issue is in the Switchbox or its ground wire.