Force 150 stator wire color codes

[pastorbud]

So I bought a Force 150 powerhead and center section, hoping to piece it together.

I am trying to test the stator output and reconnect the stator wires to whatever CDI modules I can scrape up.

I have a Force 150 factory service manual, so I thought I was all set... but...

The wiring colors and numbers in the diagram in the manual don't correspond with what is actually coming off the bottom of the stator.

The manual (see photo) says:
#6 brown/green/yellow
#5 brown/green/blue
#4 brown/black/yellow
#3 brown/black/blue
#2 brown/yellow
#1 brown/blue

The actual stator wires (three of which are unlabeled) are labeled:

#6 Brown green blue​

#5 Brown green yellow

#3 Brown yellow black
#Unlabeled brown black​

#Unlabeled brown black blue
#Unlabeled brown yellow

I've checked the CDI Electronics trouble shooting guide, and can't find any info on this 5 cylinder 150 hp motor... just on a later 5 cylinder that is wired entirely differently.

Any suggestions on how to test the output and know which wire is supposed to power which module?​

 

[pnwboat]

Brown/Green/Blue and Brown/Green/Yellow goes to the two Brown/Blue, Brown/Yellow wires on the CD Module that fires #4 and #5 cylinder.

Brown/Yellow/Black goes to the single Brown/Yellow wire on the CD Module that fires #3 cylinder. The Brown/Blue wire on this CD Module is not used.

The Brown/Black (which I suspect is actually Brown/Blue) and the Brown/Black/Blue are tied together and along with the Brown/Yellow go to the two Brown/Blue, Brown/Yellow wires on the CD Module that fires #1 and #2 cylinders.

With the stator wires disconnected, check the resistance between each pair of wires that go to the CD Modules. It should read between 680 and 850 OHMs.

Next job is wiring the ignition trigger.

Hope this helps....Good luck!

 

[pastorbud]

Thanks! I always get good info fast on this forum. Turns out I have no continuity on any of those connections. I tried a piercing probe above the connector, just in case the connector solder had let go under the shrink-wrap. Same results.

Gotta price a replacement stator, if I can find one.

Ignition trigger wire color codes correspond with the manual, so I should be good there. And I have a DVA adapter to test.

 

[pnwboat]

Standard Magneto in Chicago, IL may have what you need. I believe it's P/N 95-5025. The stator they show has the same wire colors as the 150HP stator in my manuals. They have reasonable prices as compared to other folks. They have a toll free number. It's been a while since I've ordered parts from them but they have always been reasonabable when I talk to them on the phone.

It seems odd that you have no continuity between any of the wires. I would double check before purchasing another stator.

 

[jerryjerry05]

outboardignitiondotcom
Go to their site and find the replacement parts.
Open the parts for sale open the first stator in the list.
It says it's for the older models but it covers ALL the 3 models.
Might be something you can use to figure out what you need??

It really helps to know what year the motor is??
They used a few different models and it helps narrow it down?

1989-92 stator F694095-2 20pole.
1991-92 91b 92c models. 6231A13 12pole
Your stator should have 8 leads.

 

[pastorbud]

I only bought the powerhead, so I don't know the year. But I found a stator on eBay with the right color wires and configuration.

 

[pastorbud]

Standard Magneto in Chicago, IL may have what you need. I believe it's P/N 95-5025. The stator they show has the same wire colors as the 150HP stator in my manuals. They have reasonable prices as compared to other folks. They have a toll free number. It's been a while since I've ordered parts from them but they have always been reasonabable when I talk to them on the phone.

It seems odd that you have no continuity between any of the wires. I would double check before purchasing another stator.

The continuity problem seemed weird to me, too. I did a DVA test to triple-check, and got good power on two leads. (I think it was the ones powering #3..) The others were dead. Trigger wires were solid, putting out .8-1.0 DVA. Manual calls for .3 DVA or higher.

I'm trying to get new CD modules from Standard Magneto. They are much more affordable than other places, but they (understandably!) sell out fast when they become available.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Why buy packs if the stator isn't working?

Does it spark on ANY cylinder?

Stator: outboardignitiondotcom has them. Way cheaper than any others I've seen. $200 compared to $400 on e-bay.

I had always thought the stators from the 125/120/90/85 would fit. NOPE!!

Sent U a PM.

 

[pastorbud]

I bought the 150 powerhead for the CD modules, I robbed them to get my 125 going, but only two packs worked, and they both failed after a couple of years. I bought some used CDI Electronics packs on eBay, and got the 125 hp going again. (It's on a Bayliner center console, 18.5 ft.) Used it for a few more years, but it's a little small and light for the fishing I do and the family I bring.

So, I bought a bigger boat (22 foot Aquasport 222) with a Johnson 150 60 degree looper that has low compression on one cylinder, leaking carbs, and starter reduction gear problems.... and a broken skeg.

So, my current plan is to go ahead and get the Force 150 going. It's got good compression, and I found a midsection on eBay cheap. I have two lower units that I can use to produce one good one. Also have controls. Just need three CD modules.

 

[pastorbud]

I was wrong about the DVA output on #3. It's only got good voltage from the wires that power Pack 1 (It drives plugs 1 & 2). The stator wires for Packs 2 and 3 produce no voltage.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The packs missing?

 

[pastorbud]

Yeah. I used the packs off the 150 hp to replace the failed packs on my 125 hp. So now I'm trying to get the 150 going for my new boat.

 

[pastorbud]

Took off the flywheel to remove old stator and install the new. Pretty sure those magnets aren't supposed to look like that!

 

[pnwboat]

Yes I'd say they look like they're not in the best shape.

 

[jbuote]

Wow!...

Hey, I'll admit I'm no pro, so if you don't mind my asking as a learning experience here...
Are you planning on replacing that flywheel?

If not, what about the center hub?
Looks all rusted, and the tapers would need addressing.
Valve grinding compound minimum (which might not even be good enough) right?
The outside of it looks chewed up as well..
What's the crankshaft look like?

That's not normal is it?
Would something like this (given condition of the magnets too), be the time to consider a new flywheel?

I'd be thinking that at this point, but again..
Looking to learn a bit more..

Thanks for considering my question!!

 

[jerryjerry05]

That center hub would worry me.
The big magnet is chewed but still usable.

Time for a new one.

Be careful what you get to replace it with.

I always thought the 85/90/125/120 and the 150 used the same flywheel.
But checking the parts #s they don't seem to cross over.

 

[pastorbud]

Yeah, the whole flywheel is toast. Here's a pic from an online auction showing what it SHOULD look like:

 

[pastorbud]

It looks like the flywheel of 125 hps of the same vintage will fit my 150. I have two 125 hp parts motors lying around. I hope to pull the flywheel of one of them, and see what it looks like underneath. But I broke parts of my puller last night trying to remove one, so.... it may be I'm back to good ol' eBay.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The center hub is the important area.
Make sure they look the same.

 

[pastorbud]

The center hub is the important area.
Make sure they look the same.

Thanks! I'll try, but the old one's so corroded, it's barely recognizable!