Force 507X8B Shift Issues

[msstring]

I have a Force 507X8B that I recently put on my older boat previously running an older 50 HP Force motor. The problem I have is I can't get it to shift to both forward and reverse. I can get one or the other but not both. The shifter I am using was originally from an older Chrysler setup but it is also the one I was using on the previous Force motor. So, are there differences in the length of cable travel required between the older Force and this one?
I am a little concerned about the lower end, sometimes when I get it "close" but not engaged it will catch when I turn the prop one direction but not the opposite. It will though engage if I move the linkage far enough. I have the older lower unit, I know it works. I could try putting that on. But would appreciate any guidance you all can offer. I also have "part" of a Morse shifter that came with the motor but they didn't give me all of it. They were supposed to send it but never did and now I lost the contact info. I don't know if I can buy parts for it anywhere.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The shifter from a Chrysler and Force should work.
What connector are you using? The long or short? Pics???
Morse is just a brand name, they were used on lots of outfits, Force
Volvo Sterndrive and Chrysler inboards, Ford ETC!!

How hard is it to shift by hand? The seal where the shift shaft enters the
lower unit can be swelled,clogged and seizing the shaft just enough to stop the travel of the rod? The shift rod might need to be turned in and then out 4 turns???(maybe) check the service manual.

 

[msstring]

I attached a few quick pics. The shift rod doesn't move hard but there is a bit of springy resistance at both ends of the travel. Unfortunately I don't have a service manual, my subscription expired, maybe I need to renew that. I don't know what you mean by turn the shift rod in and back out.

 

[msstring]

Would this unit work with my motor?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Side-Mount...-/254479965700?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
This would get me the kill switch and power trim switch.

 

[msstring]

I pulled the lower unit off and the shift rod does pull in and out fairly stiff. I turned the rod in all the ray and it went 4 1/2 turns. Then I threaded it all the way out and something must have shifted inside and now I can't get it threaded back in. I suppose now I might as well finish opening it up and see what is inside. I do have one from an 85 that I know works. I don't know if that would fit this motor or not.

 

[jerryjerry05]

That shifter won't work.
The lower unit needs to come apart and the shift rod reinstalled n the shift yoke
The parts from a 85 won't work either.
LOTS!!! of service manuals on Ebay
Just make sure they're for motors made before 94 and the books a "factory" manual.
The seal where the shift rod enters the lower unit might need replacing if the shift is hard?? Easy to replace.

 

[msstring]

That shifter won't work.
The lower unit needs to come apart and the shift rod reinstalled n the shift yoke
The parts from a 85 won't work either.
LOTS!!! of service manuals on Ebay
Just make sure they're for motors made before 94 and the books a "factory" manual
The seal where the shift rod enters the lower unit might need replacing if the shift is hard?? Easy to replace.

Thanks for the info. I will look for a service manual. I tried to subscribe to the Seloc manual but can't get it to work for some reason.

 

[msstring]

Well I tore the gear box apart and put all new seals in it. Finally got it back together tonight. Shifts much better now. There's not a lot of water coming out but there is some. I put a thermometer in the output ports and it stayed constant at 129 to 130 degrees. Once in a while it would drop to 125 for a second but then go back to 129/130. I assume that means the thermostat is doing it's job. But, the last motor overheated and destroyed itself. The only logical thing I can think of is that the thermostat never opened. I know it was spitting water at idle too. The alarm came on but it was too late. So, now I'm m leary about this one. Any thoughts?
Here is a link to a video of it running in a barrel.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Seloc SUCKS!! and it's almost better than nothing, almost.
Most of the exhaust and water comes from the snout and the holes in the back are for excess. Get the right muffs(see pics) and then you'll see the snout working. The other muffs don't seal right.
Install a pee tube. Top of the head, small silver set screw, remove and replace with 1/8 pipe elbow and a small hose.
The water in the bucket needs to be deeper.4-5" over the cavitation plate.
If the alarm came on but too late?? the temp sending unit might be bad or the wrong temp?
The alarm: it's not real loud, I install a car or motorcycle horn(make sure it's wired right).

 

[msstring]

Thanks for the feedback. I did get a manual. I will see about adding a pee tube, I have seen them but didn't know it was that easy. Should I be able to test the alarm by grounding the wire at the sensor? Maybe that's in the book, I haven't looked for it yet.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Test the system by grounding the orange lead on the buss bar.
The test for the sensor is hood to a gauge or meter and get it hot.