Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethanol grows...

jdlough

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Messages
824
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

What kind of access do you have to the top of your tank? There's often a round access hatch right over the sender.

If you're going with new impedence based gauges, spend the extra $20 bucks and get a good stainless sender, like the WEMAUSA http://www.wemausa.com/tank_sensors/tank_level_sensors.htm

While the sender's off, you'll have a 2" access hole on the tank top for your fuel sampling.

The pick up tube(s) may or may not be right next to the sender. The pick up tube (usually) screws into the tank top, has a barbed anti-siphon valve attached to it, and the fuel line to the motor attached to the anti-siphon valve. If you disconnect the fuel line from the anti-siphon valve, you usually just unscrew the pick up tube, and pull it straight out. It may be a real snug fit, pulling it out.

Google marine pick up tubes. They're pretty standard.

Your tube might have a screen at its intake end, at the tank bottom. Most folks advise removing that screen, and relying on your fuel/water separator to remove tank particles/gunk. It's just too easy for that little screen on the bottom of the tube to get clogged (especially since E10 will clean all the varnish/gunk from your tank walls, and you'll be sucking that gunk up the tube)

On my skiff, E10 cleaned 25 years of varnish from the gas tank. Little orange chunks, like hard candy, broke off and clogged my fuel system. I'm still working on it, but I think I finally got it all cleared out with Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner. http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/view/95/125/lang,en/ I think it breaks up or mostly dissolves the chunks, which then get sucked up the tube. I had to change out the fuel/water filter about 4 times, but I think all that crap is out of the tank now. Before I did this, my fuel line primer bulb would get sucked flat, from the motor sucking on the line, and the orange chunks clogging the pick up tube. Running a low speeds was fine - only at high speeds was the fuel flow restricted enough to suck the bulb flat and bog down the motor.

Other lines you'll see at the tank top are the big fat hose to fill the tank, and the medium hose to vent the tank.


I use Seafoam as a stabilizer. I use it very concentrated each spring to decarb the motor.(search the forums here for decarb + Seafoam) Blows out lotsa smoke, (like spraying carb cleaner down the throat or your Corvette carb while the motor's running). I then add a full can to a full tank to stabilize the gas, and also to continue as a preventative carbon cleaner. I know using it to decarb the motor works great. I have no idea if it really stabilizes anything, but I do it anyway.


If your fuel in the tank is gunky, you can still save it. Google "fuel polishing" for your area. These guys suck the fuel out of your tank, run it through special filters to remove water and crud, and send the clean gas back into your tank. Over and over. Cleans all the gunk out of your tank too. It costs a couple hundred bucks, but you get to keep your 160 gallons of gas, and you end up with a clean tank.
 

QC

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
22,783
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Your title alone says you were jumping to conclusions. You will always get slapped around a little for that here ;) Welcome aboard :)
 

DracoDan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
44
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

What kind of access do you have to the top of your tank? There's often a round access hatch right over the sender.

If you're going with new impedence based gauges, spend the extra $20 bucks and get a good stainless sender, like the WEMAUSA http://www.wemausa.com/tank_sensors/tank_level_sensors.htm

While the sender's off, you'll have a 2" access hole on the tank top for your fuel sampling.

The pick up tube(s) may or may not be right next to the sender. The pick up tube (usually) screws into the tank top, has a barbed anti-siphon valve attached to it, and the fuel line to the motor attached to the anti-siphon valve. If you disconnect the fuel line from the anti-siphon valve, you usually just unscrew the pick up tube, and pull it straight out. It may be a real snug fit, pulling it out.

Google marine pick up tubes. They're pretty standard.

Your tube might have a screen at its intake end, at the tank bottom. Most folks advise removing that screen, and relying on your fuel/water separator to remove tank particles/gunk. It's just too easy for that little screen on the bottom of the tube to get clogged (especially since E10 will clean all the varnish/gunk from your tank walls, and you'll be sucking that gunk up the tube)

Other lines you'll see at the tank top are the big fat hose to fill the tank, and the medium hose to vent the tank.

Damn, now THAT is what I call a high quality, helpful post!

Yes, there is an access port to the top of the tank where the fuel sender is and it's exactly as you described. I think I will be pulling the pick up tube and replacing it when I put the new sender in. Any advice on pick up tube types, brands, or materials?

THANKS!
 

oldjeep

Admiral
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
6,455
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Amazing because where I live (north west Mo) ethanal blend is about all there is. I run it in half a dozen vehicles, tractors and mowers that sit for months at a time and yes, in our boats. Never, not once, had a problem with the fuel.

Thats how it is here too. We can get some 100% gas at marinas and a few gas stations but I never run it anymore since my carb mixture is set for the E10
 

DracoDan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
44
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Your title alone says you were jumping to conclusions. You will always get slapped around a little for that here ;) Welcome aboard :)

Heh, a totally valid point. If nothing else it's helped me get a lot of people interested in helping solve my problem :) Yeah, I know I wouldn't have had a problem either way, let me have my excuse :p

Thanks for the welcome, I obviously have a ton to learn!
 

DracoDan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
44
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

So here is a question that I would really like to see answered.

If the problem is separated ethanol, would adding more fuel be as unlikely to help as I think? It seems like adding fuel would just put an additional later of clean gas on top while the pick up would continue picking up the sludge from the bottom.

I am very strongly leaning toward the pick up tube at this point, but I won't know until I visually inspect it.
 

jdlough

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Messages
824
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Yes, there is an access port to the top of the tank where the fuel sender is and it's exactly as you described. I think I will be pulling the pick up tube and replacing it when I put the new sender in. Any advice on pick up tube types, brands, or materials? !

Ok it looks like you can get the Moeller stainless reed sender, made by WEMAUSA, right here on iboats.
http://www.iboats.com/Moeller-Reed-...8873078--session_id.833631186--view_id.368241 If iboats doesn't have your size, you may have to order from wemausa/com. They have them in 1/2" increments. When you hook up the wires, use the crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing to make the connections totally water tight.

NO soldering wires near the gas tank, right? :eek:

It is way better than that toilet bowl float ball valve sender thing. The only issue, is that you have to order the exact size your need, based on the depth of your tank. You could just look up the specs for your tank if you can find them, but it's best to remove your old sender, and stick a tape measure in the hole to measure the distance to the bottom. (Tanks, especially if they are plastic, can warp a bit, changing the true depth number.) Be aware that if you do this, AND your tank has a V shaped bottom, your tank depth can vary about 1" depending on what side of the hole you measure from.

For a pick up tube, they are really pretty generic. Most have an aluminum square headed fitting, attached to an aluminum or plastic tube. You generally get one too long, and cut it to the correct length. Cut it at a 45 degree angle. You don't want it flat down near the tank bottom. Too easy for it to get re-clogged.

The anti-siphon valve is a VERY common cause for fuel restrictions. It's designed to not allow your tank to siphon out all its gas under your deck, if you get a leak in the fuel lines or carb or whatever BELOW the level of the tank. They are pretty much required for an I/O, and pretty much NOT required for an Outboard (even though most boat builders installed them on both boats) I'm not familiar with your boat. I don't know if it's an I/O or an outboard. IF your boat is an outboard, AND all your fuel lines are above the top level of your tank, you don't need an anti-siphon valve (you can install a normal barbed fuel fitting). If you have an I/O, it's probably best to replace the anti-siphon valve. The next time you have a fuel issue, suspect that valve first. Here's what it looks like from the inside: (click to embiggen)

valve.jpg

Instead of spending the $5 for a new straight-thru fitting, you can convert your anti-siphon valve by sticking a drywall screw in there and ripping out that spring and ball. DON'T do this if you have an I/O, or your fuel lines drop below the level of the top of the tank. It's a safety thing. You don't want a failed fuel hose fitting to siphon gallons of gas into your bilge.

You haven't mentioned fuel/water separator. If you don't have one, get one. It's that fat can that looks like a car oil filter. It not only filters crap outta your fuel, the water separates out and drops to the bottom of the can. Some have a spigot on the bottom of the can, so you can just drain the water out of the filter, and keep using it.

Here's a sample, but note that there's different types, depending on if you have an I/O or and Outboard.
http://www.iboats.com/Spin-On-Fuel-...28873078--session_id.642518035--view_id.67902


The 10 micron filters are fine for most outboards, except the newest highest tech expensive motors, which like the 2 micron filters. I use a 10 micron for my 1998 Johnson OceanRunner outboard. I figure the 2 micron filters probably clog too easily and often.
 

jdlough

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Messages
824
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Damn, now THAT is what I call a high quality, helpful post!!

The appreciation is appreciated! I get my boat wisdom from posters like Silvertip (especially wiring stuff) Philster, Fireman431, Home Cookin', (many others) and the late great tashasdaddy. I think I learn the most here when experienced guys like these disagree, then have a 50 post thread discussing the merits of some obscure dang thing vs something else I never heard of. I'm a techwriter by trade; I just rehash stuff I learn here.
 

Philster

Captain
Joined
Sep 15, 2009
Messages
3,344
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

So here is a question that I would really like to see answered.

If the problem is separated ethanol, would adding more fuel be as unlikely to help as I think? It seems like adding fuel would just put an additional later of clean gas on top while the pick up would continue picking up the sludge from the bottom.

I am very strongly leaning toward the pick up tube at this point, but I won't know until I visually inspect it.

Pretty much unhelpful. Adding fuel made things better and the prev owner telling you not to drop below a certain level = evidence of a pick up problem.

Evidence... but not conclusive.
 

NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

If the problem is separated ethanol, would adding more fuel be as unlikely to help as I think? It seems like adding fuel would just put an additional later of clean gas on top while the pick up would continue picking up the sludge from the bottom.
Here's the problem: If you suck all the water/ethanol glop out of the bottom of the tank, you will have "pure" gas left that no longer has the original ethanol content. Among other things, ethanol raises the octane rating, so that "pure" gas is below the proper octane. Your motors will NOT be happy with this. Think melted piston. Theoretically, you could top off with very high octane gas to try to balance it out to the proper octane rating, but the stakes are too high, IMO.

BTW, I'm a big fan of ethanol. In fact, I'm enjoying some right now.:p
 

H20Rat

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
5,204
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

BTW, my hatred of ethanol has much deeper roots than this. I have a Corvette (2006) that I track on a fairly regular basis and I can feel the difference between pure gas and 10% ethanol garbage. There are many other reasons, but if one thing is for sure it's that I won't start throwing money at this issue until I am very confident of what the problem is.

Heh, that was my point exactly :) I consider anything that lowers my power output to be "garbage". Going to finish reading your reply now, just wanted to to say that!

Depends on the vehicle, ethanol can be lots of fun!

In the forced induction circles, ethanol is also known as 'rocket fuel', or sometimes just as poor mans racing fuel. I track my car also (well, autocross), and do tons of tuning on it. On regular 91 octane pump gas, I am currently running about 270 hp/290 ft/lb of torque at the wheels. On e85 I'm up to 300 and 330 ft/lb of torque. Yep, you read correctly. With no other hardware modifications, I safely pick up about 30 horsepower and 40 ft/lb of torque, just by running e85.

The trick is that although e85 has a lower energy content, it also has an amazing high octane rating, and burns cooler (I see 1650f 3 inches from the exhaust valve with 91 octane, 1450-1500f is what I run on e85). Engines that are tuned to take advantage of it can put out an amazing amount of power, and do it far cleaner than gas. (I've heard of guys passing sniffer tests catless, while running e85) With e85, you can run the boost and timing far above what you could with gasoline, the engine would be in pieces if you tried.
 

QC

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Messages
22,783
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Yes ^^^^ but what is not said here, and is usually misunderstood, is that the only way to take advantage of that capability is with increased fuel rates. Nothing wrong with that, but if you ran E85 at the same volumetric fuel rates, that would = low power, not increased ;) Less bang per unit, but the higher octane allows you to jack that up significantly in higher CR or boosted engines. :cool:
 

DracoDan

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Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
44
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Depends on the vehicle, ethanol can be lots of fun!

In the forced induction circles, ethanol is also known as 'rocket fuel', or sometimes just as poor mans racing fuel. I track my car also (well, autocross), and do tons of tuning on it. On regular 91 octane pump gas, I am currently running about 270 hp/290 ft/lb of torque at the wheels. On e85 I'm up to 300 and 330 ft/lb of torque. Yep, you read correctly. With no other hardware modifications, I safely pick up about 30 horsepower and 40 ft/lb of torque, just by running e85.

The trick is that although e85 has a lower energy content, it also has an amazing high octane rating, and burns cooler (I see 1650f 3 inches from the exhaust valve with 91 octane, 1450-1500f is what I run on e85). Engines that are tuned to take advantage of it can put out an amazing amount of power, and do it far cleaner than gas. (I've heard of guys passing sniffer tests catless, while running e85) With e85, you can run the boost and timing far above what you could with gasoline, the engine would be in pieces if you tried.

Heh, I read all about this a while back and was intrigued. Of course the 87 octane pump fuel with 10% ethanol doesn't do much for that, you need e85. To set the record straight, my annoyance with ethanol is purely limited to the forced usage of it in regular pump gas. If you want to make it available as a second option, GREAT! Stop forcing me to use it though! Then again, I'm guessing that this is the same reaction most people had to unleaded gas back in the 70s... :p
 

DracoDan

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Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
44
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Here's the problem: If you suck all the water/ethanol glop out of the bottom of the tank, you will have "pure" gas left that no longer has the original ethanol content. Among other things, ethanol raises the octane rating, so that "pure" gas is below the proper octane. Your motors will NOT be happy with this. Think melted piston. Theoretically, you could top off with very high octane gas to try to balance it out to the proper octane rating, but the stakes are too high, IMO.

BTW, I'm a big fan of ethanol. In fact, I'm enjoying some right now.:p

Hmm, this is a VERY good point, maybe what I thought was backfiring was pre-ignition from exactly this... oh god :facepalm: I honestly think that I should be just fine at this point since both engines are running great and I've run it long enough to have gone through anything in the bottom of the tank. The fuel in question is 89 octane while the boat only requires 87 (yeah, I know that's not much of a difference). Combine the thought that my fuel shouldn't have been totally separated (if at all) with the fact that I just added 70 gallons of GOOD gas, I think the octane should be high enough. I think while I'm getting the sta-bil, I'm going to go ahead and grab some octane booster as well, just in case though...
 

DracoDan

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Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
44
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Ok it looks like you can get the Moeller stainless reed sender, made by WEMAUSA, right here on iboats.
http://www.iboats.com/Moeller-Reed-...8873078--session_id.833631186--view_id.368241 If iboats doesn't have your size, you may have to order from wemausa/com. They have them in 1/2" increments. When you hook up the wires, use the crimp connectors with heat shrink tubing to make the connections totally water tight.

NO soldering wires near the gas tank, right? :eek:

It is way better than that toilet bowl float ball valve sender thing. The only issue, is that you have to order the exact size your need, based on the depth of your tank. You could just look up the specs for your tank if you can find them, but it's best to remove your old sender, and stick a tape measure in the hole to measure the distance to the bottom. (Tanks, especially if they are plastic, can warp a bit, changing the true depth number.) Be aware that if you do this, AND your tank has a V shaped bottom, your tank depth can vary about 1" depending on what side of the hole you measure from.

For a pick up tube, they are really pretty generic. Most have an aluminum square headed fitting, attached to an aluminum or plastic tube. You generally get one too long, and cut it to the correct length. Cut it at a 45 degree angle. You don't want it flat down near the tank bottom. Too easy for it to get re-clogged.

The anti-siphon valve is a VERY common cause for fuel restrictions. It's designed to not allow your tank to siphon out all its gas under your deck, if you get a leak in the fuel lines or carb or whatever BELOW the level of the tank. They are pretty much required for an I/O, and pretty much NOT required for an Outboard (even though most boat builders installed them on both boats) I'm not familiar with your boat. I don't know if it's an I/O or an outboard. IF your boat is an outboard, AND all your fuel lines are above the top level of your tank, you don't need an anti-siphon valve (you can install a normal barbed fuel fitting). If you have an I/O, it's probably best to replace the anti-siphon valve. The next time you have a fuel issue, suspect that valve first. Here's what it looks like from the inside: (click to embiggen)

View attachment 151793

Instead of spending the $5 for a new straight-thru fitting, you can convert your anti-siphon valve by sticking a drywall screw in there and ripping out that spring and ball. DON'T do this if you have an I/O, or your fuel lines drop below the level of the top of the tank. It's a safety thing. You don't want a failed fuel hose fitting to siphon gallons of gas into your bilge.

You haven't mentioned fuel/water separator. If you don't have one, get one. It's that fat can that looks like a car oil filter. It not only filters crap outta your fuel, the water separates out and drops to the bottom of the can. Some have a spigot on the bottom of the can, so you can just drain the water out of the filter, and keep using it.

Here's a sample, but note that there's different types, depending on if you have an I/O or and Outboard.
http://www.iboats.com/Spin-On-Fuel-...28873078--session_id.642518035--view_id.67902


The 10 micron filters are fine for most outboards, except the newest highest tech expensive motors, which like the 2 micron filters. I use a 10 micron for my 1998 Johnson OceanRunner outboard. I figure the 2 micron filters probably clog too easily and often.

Here is the sending unit I had in mind, what are your thoughts? It's designed specifically for my gauges and solid state SHOULD mean that it practically never wears out. Sure it's expensive but only like $30 more than the one you posted.

At this point I have decided that my next course of action is to replace:
Fuel level sender unit
Pick up tube
Anti-siphon fitting (yes, I have I/Os)
Fuel filters
Fuel/Water separates (or add them if they aren't there already) and the fuel lines.

When I'm dealing with something like this, I want to be VERY sure that everything is working as intended. If it means a few hundred dollars then I think it is a well justified expense.

This may be a silly question, but would it be a horrible idea to run the fuel filters in line, first the 10nm and then 2nm? My initial thought it that it would be much harder on the fuel pump and possibly limit the fuel pressure to the engines by too much.
 

H20Rat

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Joined
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Messages
5,204
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Heh, I read all about this a while back and was intrigued. Of course the 87 octane pump fuel with 10% ethanol doesn't do much for that, you need e85. To set the record straight, my annoyance with ethanol is purely limited to the forced usage of it in regular pump gas. If you want to make it available as a second option, GREAT! Stop forcing me to use it though! Then again, I'm guessing that this is the same reaction most people had to unleaded gas back in the 70s... :p

Yep, e10 is pretty much worthless. I still have regular gas available, so I'm usually running that ECU programming. I've also got a program set up for e30, (30% e85, 70% 91 octane), as well as full e85. But yeah, without an engine specifically set up for it, and especially in a vehicle that isn't often used, ethanol is far from the best choice.
 

Silvertip

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Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Flex fuel vehicles (my Impala is just one example) the ECU can determne the mix of the fuel (amount of ethanol in the mix) so anythng from straight regular through E-85 can be mixed in any proportion. The ECU then has the ability to advance ignition timing and injector pulse width to take advantage fo the higher (104) octane of E-85. Peformance is better but obviously mileage goes down a bit because of the increased fuel flow. The marketeers did a poor job of promoting ethanol blended fuel and most people were led to believe it was a replacement for gasoline. Well -- it is an ALTERNATIVE fuel - not a dollar for dollar or less expensive replacement. In my area if E85 is 40 cents/gallon cheaper than regular I use it becaue the mileage difference means that's the break even point. Any price difference greater than that (it has gone to 65 cents cheaper at times) is money in my pocket. Unfortuantely, folks in the "non'farm" areas pay much more for E85 than regular so it is a loser all the way around. The good part about ethanol is that carbon build up in engines that use it is far less than in one that runs regular fuel.
 

UncleWillie

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Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
3,995
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethanol grows...

If you originally had water/ethanol phase separated in the bottom of the tank, adding more fuel caused it to redissolve.
It is a myth, that once separated, there is no way to get rid of it except to pump it out. BUNK!

The one item that has not been mentioned is the fuel pump.
You seem to have fuel issues only when the tank is low.
That could be because the fuel pump suction is marginal or the restrictions in the fuel line just overwhelm the pump when it has to pull fuel farther uphill.
The restrictions coud be a pickup problem (Blocked, Leaking air), dirty/blocked fuel filter, Kinked fuel line, etc.
Or the fuel pump diaphram may just have seen better days.

If replacing the fuel pickup tube, it is recommended/required that the tube pull fuel at least 1 inch OFF of the bottom of the tank.
This prevents any issues with tank crud and/or water until the problem actually becomes overwhelming.
an inch of water/crud is a huge amount of undesirables.

Look at you fuel tanks specs closely and you may find in the fine print something like...
Tank capacity = 160gal.
Usable capacity = 148gal.

That is due to NOT pulling fuel from the very bottom.
 

DracoDan

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Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
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Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethanol grows...

If you originally had water/ethanol phase separated in the bottom of the tank, adding more fuel caused it to redissolve.
It is a myth, that once separated, there is no way to get rid of it except to pump it out. BUNK!

The one item that has not been mentioned is the fuel pump.
You seem to have fuel issues only when the tank is low.
That could be because the fuel pump suction is marginal or the restrictions in the fuel line just overwhelm the pump when it has to pull fuel farther uphill.
The restrictions coud be a pickup problem (Blocked, Leaking air), dirty/blocked fuel filter, Kinked fuel line, etc.
Or the fuel pump diaphram may just have seen better days.

If replacing the fuel pickup tube, it is recommended/required that the tube pull fuel at least 1 inch OFF of the bottom of the tank.
This prevents any issues with tank crud and/or water until the problem actually becomes overwhelming.
an inch of water/crud is a huge amount of undesirables.

Look at you fuel tanks specs closely and you may find in the fine print something like...
Tank capacity = 160gal.
Usable capacity = 148gal.

That is due to NOT pulling fuel from the very bottom.

All very good points. The biggest reason I doubt it's my fuel pump is because not only did the engines run after adding fuel, they ran perfectly. Once I get all of this done and I'm comfortable with the fuel system I may try to make one of the fuel pressure test setups to test it. Regardless of anything else though, I want to replace everything on my list currently.

Right now I am trying to figure out the fuel line sizes so I can get the correct anti-siphon valve, does anyone have a clue?:confused:
I'm not sure if the fuel line size (prior to the fuel/water separator - which I do have) is specific to the boat or the engines, I would think engines though but I don't want to order parts until I'm sure. I'm about to leave town for a week and I won't be able to get back to the boat before mid next week, so I really want to get this all figured out so I can get the parts ordered and be ready to go as soon as I get back.
 

The Famous Grouse

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 26, 2008
Messages
291
Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Re: Fouled fuel? My hatred for all things ethenol grows...

Great idea on the dissection, do you have any suggestions for filters? (brand, pore size, material, ect)

I don't think there are vast differences between filters. Since the filters have to work as part of a system, the manufacturer's recommendation is what I'd stick with. I'd be more interested in what can be learned by taking apart your current filters to see what they might tell you about the cause of your problems.

Bingo, this is something I really wanted to have clarified, now I just have to find a place that can do it for me. Is there a better term than "polish" for this? I don't want to sound like a TOTAL tard when I call up, lol :p

Errrrm, actually "fuel polishing", is the term that professionals will often use to describe the process of cleaning and drying contaminated fuels. So, as most people know, as long as you're following my advice, you won't sound like a total tard.

Grouse
 
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