Frozen Prop on SX-M Duoprop, Seeking Advice

[Bt Doctur]

Well if you remove the nut for the rear prop it just slides off

 

[Jason_SJC]

Prop and hub are bonded with rubber.

Maybe heat the prop enough to break the bond and pull prop off hub

Then put puller on hub

This was the winner. You can deliver heat to the outer prop body without getting near the shaft seals, and doing so makes the delamination quite easy. We took a 3-jaw puller and replaced the jaws with chains and hooks. The blade was not damaged at all, even though we really cranked on it.




Then I used a die grinder, a multi tool and a Dremel to open channels in the outer hub and make two precision cuts 180 degrees apart. After the first cut I pried the hub and it would flex but did not break loose.





And then a cold chisel to split if off. One side came off easy, and the other was frozen on so badly I had to knock if off with the chisel perpendicular to the shaft.





Good times!

 

[Scott Danforth]

now buy a few tubes of prop shaft grease.... https://www.iboats.com/shop/volvo-penta-grease-3809449.html

 

[Rick Stephens]

Nice teardown!

You can see the corrosion from here. Little bit goes a long ways.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... A finger fulla grease coulda prevented that,......

 

[Lou C]

Doesn’t look like the PO ever greased it. I’ve been using Evinrude triple guard grease on driveshaft splines and prop shaft splines for years with no problems. Even after 6 months being moored in salt water the prop just about falls off the shaft. Great stuff!

 

[Scott06]

Doesn’t look like the PO ever greased it. I’ve been using Evinrude triple guard grease on driveshaft splines and prop shaft splines for years with no problems. Even after 6 months being moored in salt water the prop just about falls off the shaft. Great stuff!

I think any grease… woulda been better than what he had

 

[Stanpjr]

I'll try a dead blow hammer with an iron pipe against the hub, around the splined shaft, to break it loose. We've already been hitting it with penetrating oil frequently.

 

[Stanpjr]

I had one stuck bad on a 73 merc 9.8 , soaked it good with penetrating oil for 3 days. Hitting , prying with 2x4 did nothing. Drilled to holes and pulled it off with 2 jaw puller. Was changing out the prop anyway.

 

[cptbill]

Yea if the rubber is slipping the you'll probably get the metal prop off and need to cut the rest. Best not to beat up the lower unit at this point

 

[Jason_SJC]

This project is already done. I did end up heating the prop to delaminate the hub, then cut the hub off the shaft. Then I couldn't get the carrier out to change the leaking seals, so I ended up salvaging the lower internals and sourcing a freshwater case from the Carolinas. Setting up the new internals was quite a task, but now I have a good 10 or 15 hours on it and it seems perfect - just a little noise from the u-joints when turning, so I keep the power quite low when turning sharply.

Here is the setup thread - not much of a discussion starter, lol

DP-SM Setting up shims and contact pattern.

Having been unable to remove my bearing carrier from my salty drive, I have purchased a good replacement case from a freshwater unit that self-destructed internally. I will be transferring the good internals of my salty drive over to the new case. Having read through the setup procedure, I see...

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