Fuel not getting to cylinders, carbs and fuel pump ok?

[kpudden]

I have a 73 85HP that i can't figure out. Am am using a store bought tester gapped at 7/16". I have been through the troubleshooting guide a couple of times and have the following results: Rectifier is new, and tests ok (just to be sure) Stator is new, generates @120 VDC at the Power Pack while cranking (Brown and Brown/Yellow wires); guide says 150V minimum...possible issue? Resistance across Brown and Brown/Yellow wires wires is 740 ohms, recommendation is @500 ohms? Tested Timer Base sensors and i am reading 8 ohms, not the recommended 10-20 ohms? DVA output from Timer Base is an adequate 1V. Not sure what to do next...i know i am getting the 300 RPM as i am using a new 1000CCA battery with a charger attached to it while cranking just to be sure Please help!!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

The rectifier has nothing to do with the ignition but it's good that you mention everything you've done so far. Hopefully you're testing the spark with all of the spark plugs removed...... it does make a difference in testing.

Disconnect the large RED electrical plug at the engine, then test the spark, cranking the engine by using a jumper from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal that energizes it. If you now have spark, the usual cause is a bad ignition switch (you did have the key turned ON doing the previous test didn't you?).

If still no spark, considering what you've already done, I would assume that the powerpack is faulty.

 

[airframer]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

cranking on a test bench, or your engine? flywheel might be shot. i'm no expert for electrical though.

 

[kpudden]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

All plugs have been removed for testing and i am testing with motor mounted in boat. I have been cranking by using the Solenoid to Starter method described below. Any other thoughts? Test procedures for identifying bad PowerPack? Thanks.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Obvious questions, Is the ignition switch turned ON, and is the kill switch/lanyard connected?

These ignitions are a 'Ground to Kill', any ground and the ignition fails to spark.

Unplug the large red canon plug and retest, if spark then your ignition is working, the problem is in the ignition switch the lanyard kill switch or wiring to them.

 

[Reggie08]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

I was gonna mention the same thing as CharlieB. I had a heckuva time getting my motor started after a rebuild. All it did was crank over and over. I tested for spark and absolutely no spark on either of the 4 cylinders. Wound up being the kill switch lanyard was missing

Sometimes ya gotta start with the simple stuff

 

[UncleBuck81]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

It sounds to me like the power pack. Before I spent that money though, I would ensure the ign switch is good. The test in here is posted by "Reeves" I think. Hope you figure it out.

 

[kpudden]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

All,

Thanks for the response!

I have made sure the ignition is not the issue...i have pulled the black/yellow kill wire and still no spark. Pulled the red cannon plug, still nothing. I don't believe there is a kill switch on this control. Pack is on the way...hope this is it cause the boss is starting to complain about the budget :redface:

 

[kpudden]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Well, i have some good new and some bad news to report...good news is i am finally get a good strong spark Bad news is i got some fuel system issues I put some Seafoam in the cylinders and let it soak for 15 minutes, cranked the engine over and it fired right up, but only long enough to burn off the Sea Foam. Pulled the air silencer cover and sprayed a shot of carb cleaner in the carbs, it fired right up. Next, i pulled some lines going to the carbs after the Fuel Pump, cranked it over, and fuel shot out, so i am quite sure the Pump is ok...Next, i blew a shot of air down the fuel lines toward the carbs, and air shot out first, followed by some fuel. The Carbs look very clean from the outside, no visible carbon anywhere, but i am thinking now that i might have to pull them to clean/inspect/rebuild? Another concern i have is the lid to the fuel tank, it has the plastic cover/shroud missing that covers the gauge. Could this be the issue? I have a new bulb, and it is very firm, and i have confirmed that fuel is being shot past the Pump by manually pumping the bulb. I would assume no fuel is reaching the plugs based on the instant response from the starting fluid. Suggestions? My manual isn't obvious as to what the problem is...

 

[ottertail]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

First of all throw the starting fluid away. starting fluid and 2 stroke engines do not go well together. Sounds like you will have to pull the carbs and clean them. When you winterized the engine did you drain the fuel from the carbs? With todays fuel it is a must to drain the fuel from the carbs before storage. You stted you have fuel getting to the carb but not to the cylinder, yep, pull the cars, not a hard job.

 

[kpudden]

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Re: New Stator and Rectifer, still no spark

Thanks. So do all of you "experts" agree that i should go ahead and rebuild the Carb's? I don't mind doing this, but from a troubleshooting perspective does it sound like the Carb's are likely the problem?

 

[kpudden]

Fuel System issues, help please!

Fuel System issues, help please!

Ok...i have pulled the Carb's and everything appears to be sqeaky clean? This motor is new to me, based on the appearance these things could have just been rebuilt? The pictures in my SELOC manual suggest that everything would be coated in carbon? I am now all but convinced the Carbs are good, but for good measure i am going to pull the remaining high-speed orfices and the float valve. Why else would i not be getting fuel into the cylinders?

 

[iwombat]

Re: Fuel not getting to cylinders, carbs and fuel pump ok?

Carbs usually look clean - even when they're not.