Furrylittleotter's Starcraft Chieftain Revival

[Watermann]

Oh yeah we tin heads love to see some nice think stock being bent and fabbed from being nothing into a boat part! :encouragement:

 

[Furrylittleotter]

You got a deal getting those 4 pieces formed for $108.50.

What are the plans for a rudder?

I'm installing a Nicson off a Mastercrap ski boat.

 

[Furrylittleotter]

THis is the basic setup. Packless shaft seal, 10 degree bronze shaft log, 1" stainless shaft, 10 degree 6.5" bronze strut, 4 blade 13 by 13 cupped nibral prop, New cutlass bearing, new nut, new keys, new stainless shaft coupling.

 

[Furrylittleotter]

Oh yeah we tin heads love to see some nice think stock being bent and fabbed from being nothing into a boat part! :encouragement:

Well it wasn't nothing, it was a ladder guard from the side of a building.


THis is better.

Neil

 

[GA_Boater]

I'm sure you thought this through, but with a 6,5" strut and a 13" prop, wont the prop be close to the hull? The 10 degrees will offset a little.

Still the set up looks sweet.

 

[Furrylittleotter]

I thought that at first too.

There is a learning curve to figuring out inboard set ups. There are also a lot of variances which lead me to believe as long as the blades don't hit the rudder or keel, you are good!

But basically, the shaft protrudes past the strut at an angle, which gives you more than the apparent 13 inches of clearance.


I was thinking today about how much I've had to learn, and it is a lot, but it really is quite simple, and compared to the inboard/outboard rats nests with wires, hoses, dreaded out drives, bellows, etc. I am pretty sure I made a good choice.

Neil

 

[dozerII]

Really cool built Neil, looking forward to seeing this one come together. Can't say I remember anyone else trying this to a Starcraft.

 

[GoldDuster360]

I'll bet that diesel will be a real symphony of sound humming inside an aluminum hull

 

[g0nef1sshn]

I think we now need a boatissery smiley. I look at this thread a lot, keep up the great work! opcorn:

 

[Furrylittleotter]

I'll bet that diesel will be a real symphony of sound humming inside an aluminum hull

This is certainly the million dollars question.

I actually hope to hear that noise for hours and hours day after day while I am out fishing and all these other boats that require $200/day in fuel to take out fishing are sitting in driveways and marinas all over the country.

Because, lets be honest here, that's the fate of 99% of all the boats in this country.

I have thought about this issue, and this Deutz is known to be quite a shaker! I have purchased liquid filled mounts, and will be using a cv jointed shafted from a Porsche instead of U joints to try and eliminate as much vibration as I can, and the box over the engine will be insulated.

The entire floor will be filled with foam with a 2" layer on top, covered in aluminum and a rubber mat, This should help absorb sound and vibration.

This may all be a waste of time but I think it will be ok. If it is horrible I can always put in a different motor later. the great thing about this setup is it will be a piece of pie to change motors should I decide to later.

I actually have a Subaru EJ22 with a converted harness sitting right here right now. That would be a nice runner in this boat.

Maybe I'm an idiot and should've stuck with a 20-40 year old inboard/outboard setup like is most common here. TIme will tell.

Btw some of my orders are here. Gluvit, pop rivets, Jegs rivet gun, some aluminum pulleys,shark hide, clecos, etc. etc


And I made my first cut. no turning back now!

 

[classiccat]

I have to say, after you said this:

...if you are offended by people that "Think outside the box" and "don't do what is commonly done", please excuse yourself from this thread right now, you will not like me or the boat I'm building."

...I was a little nervous... After seeing this level of thought & execution, I don't think anyone in their right mind will be offended! Great work otter! :thumb:

 

[Furrylittleotter]

Great work otter! :thumb:

Thanks man, but we aren't out of the woods yet!

TOday I cut a notch out of the keel and was shocked to find:


I guess the keel isn't all that sealed!

It will need to be sealed for my plan to work so, I will work on that.

I figured if I'm working on a boat made of recycled beer cans I might as well make my model out of aluminum foil:

I'm making a transition for the front of the new flat keel piece here.

Next I sacrificed a cereal box and made a paperboard template:



Then I hammered out an aluminum version out of .050:




Its not perfect but I think it will work. More to come.

Neil

 

[jbcurt00]

Is there evidence of frequent beaching on the keel at the bow?

Repetitively running the bow up on a sandbar is about the only way I can imagine that much sand getting packed into the keel.

NO the keel isnt sealed.

In fact it has a small diameter hole in a few places along it's length once it flattens out after the rise for the bow. The hull is a continuous sheet of aluminum that has a sort of pie shape piece cut out in the center at the front. When the aluminum is folded up to form the bow, there's a gap in the continuous sheet that the keel covers, so that portion could be considered sealed (from the inside there should be some brownish colored sealant visible at the keel.

The rest of the keel is simply applied to the hull, and the edges along it's length aren't sealed, just riveted to the hull. Normally, you want any water that gets in, to get out, esp in areas w/ cold weather.

To accommodate your drive system, from your stuffing box back to the rudder, the keel has to be removed and that box channel you had fabricated, installed, correct?

 

[Furrylittleotter]

Thanks for the layout information.

It looks like I can just cut off the pointiest part of the keel and leave the "flange" part of the keel. The new flat piece will cover the "stern-most" section of the old one completely. I may drop a bilge pump in there since it will be the lowest point in the boat now.



I will seal the new section I install and isolate it from the existing "bow-most" keel section. This transition I made today won't be waterproof. It will basically be installed like the original keel. Sealed rivets, but not watertight.

A little speed bump, but I think im still moving forward. Today I bought some.080 sheet to patch the stern and 4 sheets of .040 to cover the foam on the floor.

Btw I see the drain hole in the keel and a missing rivet on the bow section of the keel.

Neil

 

[Furrylittleotter]

a little progress over the weekend.

THis is the driveshaft out of the Porsche. I want to use it instead of the U joint shaft that was in the Hot boat for less vibration. Here are the two side by side

Here is the Porsche shaft:

Obviously I need to adapt the ends to fit the motor and V drive. I bought a porsche rear wheel flange to bolt onto the shaft and then made a plate adaptor to bolt to the flywheel.

Heres the adaptor flange that the Porche flange will bolt to. Keep in mind I am making all this crap with hand tools so don't notice the shady work... (those flathead bolts are just temporary for the photo.

Next I need to adapt the cv joint:

to the V drive input flange

I was fortunate enough to find a company in CO that makes this CV joint to Spicer joint flange adaptor for Pantera Cars so i ordered one for $100. should complete the drivetrain (propulsion system)!!!

if anyone is looking for the cv adaptor here is the forum I found it in http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1510042044/m/8201085436

Ipsca.com makes the adaptor (although it is not listed online) and Performance Pantera sells them ostensibly for Panteras but the Spicer flange pattern is the same. Spicer=U Joint, same thing. Spicer is the man credited with it's invention.

I believe that leaves me with foam, seats, paint and primer and a fuel tank to purchase, that and a lot of work. So, maybe $1000 more and I'm done.

Neil

 

[dozerII]

That's some pretty cool backyard engineering and inventing you have going on there Ott.

 

[laurentide]

That's some pretty cool backyard engineering and inventing you have going on there Ott.

x2! This may be the coolest Starcraft resto-mod ever. And you're not wasting any time!

 

[g0nef1sshn]

a little progress over the weekend.

So, maybe $1000 more and I'm done.

Neil

And videos. :couch2:

 

[Furrylittleotter]

Yes videos are forthcoming! I do get a lot of people stopping to chat and compliment me on the boatisserie! They usually "wish me luck" as they leave so I suspect they either think I'm nuts or my project will never get done.

Hopefully I am just nuts enough to get it done!

Yesterday I took the new flat keel piece back to get the angle changed.
They got it perfect this time! It was exactly 2 degrees off. (1degree each side).

Today I worked on the keel piece end caps and cut some more of the old keel off.

Here I used some long strips of aluminium to hold some 1/2 bars while I drug them across my table saw. I had a block clamped on and raised the blade one half turn each pass, then I moved the block 1.5" either way and made two more passes to give me approximate hull curvature.s1382.photobucket.com/user/Neil_Fink/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-04/8CC6063A-661E-426D-972D-C1F0DD769D88_zps3gm30akn.jpg.html]

[/URL] then I did the final cut with a grinding disc and cut it down on the saw.

I had to use two pieces because I didn't have one thick enough but it should be fine.URL=http://s1382.photobucket.com/user/Neil_Fink/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-04/7F51CEDC-ED03-4354-A3D1-E66A89A4F747_zps27ay10am.jpg.html]

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There are some rivets holding it away from the hull here, but they have since been dealt with.

More to come.

Neil

 

[Watermann]

I have to say I'm impressed with your ingenuity Ott, although the set up is so foreign to me I'm having a tough time realizing your vision on how all of this is going to work out. Guess I will have to stay tuned to see how it comes together!