Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Philvan

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Looking for the best budget finder, is this it ?<br />Any happy owners of this unit,please give me your feedback,comments<br /> Thankyou
 

ThomWV

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Well, you won't have to look any farther than you already have. The LS4100 probably is the very best inexpensive fish finder on the market. Second in line would probably be the Garmin 240, which I think has a price in the same ballpark.<br /><br />Thom
 

farginicehole

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Blueline,<br />I just installed my LS4100 this weekend, and it appears to be a pretty good quality unit for $200. Took the boat out to a lake last evening to try it out, and the display has very good resolution. It did, however, get "confused" sometimes when in shallow water. It was giving me much deeper than actual readings sometimes when in 4 - 8 feet of water, sometimes telling me it was as deep as 16 feet. The display showed the bottom at the correct (?) depth, but the number at the lower left was way off. I haven't dug out the manual yet to figure out what might be causing this, but this could be a big issue if I can't get it resolved. ThomWV, if you have any experience with these units, do you have any ideas? I had it on the 50 kHz single frequency setting, and the auto range. Thanks, and good luck, Blueline!
 

ThomWV

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Don't put it into the 50kHz setting unless you are in water that is over about 200 feet deep. That would be a good place to start. I suspect that you may have been runing it in manual operation and had the gain set very high as well.<br /><br />Just a quick digression. Gain in fish finders doesn't refer to how much power you're putting out, it refers to how sensitive it is to incomming signals. With that as background it is pretty easy to see how, in shallow water, you can actually shoot down a signal that bounces back up to the boat - giving you a good strong echo of the bottom which you can see displayed on the screen, while at the same time some of the sound actually bounces off the hull and goes back down for a second trip, and it is the return of this signal that will give you a reading that is some multiple of the actual depth.<br /><br />Another thing that happes is that unless a reasonalbe return is being received the fish finder will begin searching through its range scales in search of one in which the return signal it is receiveing is rational (a function of residual signal strength and timeing) signal. Sometimes it will find a signal that is rational as far as timeing goes but irrational as far as signal strength goes (it thinks its in 500 feet of water because of the timing of the return signal but the return echo is so strong it must be comming from much shallower water, so its irrational). When that happens you will briefly see the numerical readout show absurdly deep readings. It won't hold those settings for long but you do see it sometimes.<br /><br />Let me just touch on frequencys for a moment. You have two of them available to operate on, 50 kHz and 200 kHz. The 200 kHz side is there for shallow water operaton. Higher frequency sound has a tendency to attenuate (fade out) in deeper water so its not suitable for very deep water. That's why you use 200 in shallow water. The advantage of 50 kHz is that it can be used in deeper water. Every transducer shoots out its sound in a pattern and that pattern is a function of the size and shape of the element in your transducer. When you are shooting at the higher frequency (200 kHz) the width of the cone of sound that is being emitted will be narrow, covering a relatively small patch of bottom. This is called the cone angle and for most transducers its about 10 degrees or so at 200 kHz. When you shoot at 50 kHz the cone's pattern is wider, usually on the order of 45 degrees or so. It covers a lot larger area of bottom of course but because the area is larger the ability to discriminate small or closley spaced targets is decreased. <br /><br />So basically in shallower water you should probably keep the machine set on 200 khz. There are reasons to use low frequency in shallow water, for instance when bottom fishing, but in general you really don't want to be swithing over to low frequency until about the time that 200 quits working, probably somewhere arond 200~250 feet for your fish finder.<br /><br />Thom
 

farginicehole

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Thanks for taking the time to reply, Thom. And Blueline, I don't mean to hijack your thread. I am replacing an old, lower shelf Lowrance that was on my Alumacraft walleye boat when I bought it used a few years ago. Like I said before, the Furuno appears to be a very high quality unit, and looks to have better resolution and a brighter display than competitors' units in this price range. I was going to get the LS6100, but I think it would have been a tight fit on my boat's dash. I may look into adding a transom mount speed sensor to mine, as I like to use that feature along with my GPS ground speed when trolling for salmon in Lake Michigan.
 

snapperbait

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Have the 4100's big brother, the 6100... Not one complaint... Best fishfinder I ever had..
 

Philvan

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Thanks for the info guys, Very helpful,I am new to this forum and I must say I am very impressed with how quick everyone responds.Maybe this unit is overkill for me as 200 feet is the max I will be fishing in, if so can anyone recomend a cheaper unit for saltwater reef fishing or will this unit do the job better. <br /> Thankyou.
 

ThomWV

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Blueline,<br /><br />That 4100 is the best inexpensive fish finder you could have bought for saltwater reef fishing. It has another hugh advantage as well, that is it uses the same transducers that will work with every Furuno up to their largest LCD machine (the 582L). So if you decide that you want to sell the 4100 and move up to another model, say the 6100 or 600L, you can keep the same transducer and be just fine.<br /><br />By the way, you can still use the 50 kHz side in shallower water if you want to survey a larger footprint of the bottom, but keep in mind that definition will go down hill by about a factor of 3. I it will, however, still pick up targets in the 50 kHz mode, its just that they will be less distinct blobs on the screen. I have nothing against blobs, particularly big blobs.<br /><br />Thom
 

farginicehole

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

ThomWV,<br />I was out again last night and put the 4100 on the 200 kHz setting and turned the gain down a bit. Worked much better! Thanks for the info. I think I'm really going to like this unit, particularly when I go out into deeper water in Lake Michigan. Does this thing have enough power(?) to pick up the thermocline? I also have Walker Duo Temp downriggers, so I can look for it that way too. Blueline, I think you will love the Furuno, especially if you're doing reef fishing. I'm thinking about getting my mom one for Christmas, as she and my stepdad do a lot of bottom fishing off of Ensenada, and they've had a lot of problems with their Humminbird. I know that I get mad at that thing everytime I go to visit and fish with them!
 

Philvan

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Thankyou ThomWV and farginicehole, say no more I am getting one !! One more Q. Does it read in meters ? The great barrier reef Queensland is my heaven on earth. Roll out the big blobs !!
 

farginicehole

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

I was playing around with mine while out on the lake last night, and you can change all of the measurements to several different units. So, I guess my answer is a strong "I'm pretty sure you can!" Good luck, and I'm very jealous if the Great Barrier Reef is where you do your fishing!!! Tight lines
 

ThomWV

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Feet, meters, fathoms, temperature F or temperature C, statute miles or nautical miles. Its all up to you. This may be the smallest Furuno, but its still a Furuno.<br /><br />It may pick up thermoclines for you, it may not. My 600L wouldn't do it, but a friend of mine has an older LS6000 on his Parker and it will. I have never seen on from my 582L, but that doesn't mean they either are or aren't there. How's that old saying go, "lack of evidence is not evidence of lack", or something like that?<br /><br />One thing I wanted to say about all of the Furuno machines that are normally found on small boats. They have a great automatic feature. If its primarily bottom structure that you are interested in just put it in automatic and see how you like it. You can always tweek it yourself of course and depending on your fishing location there are all sorts of things to do looking for fish in the mid depths (finding fish at 600 feet in a thousand feet of water) but what I really wanted to say was that you should look at your range scales.<br /><br />Your range scales should be user selectable and setting them appropriately can be a powerful tool, and one that most guys never use, for improving the utility of your machine for your circumstance. Basically what you want to do is set one or more at the shallow depths so it never rolls over when you are running in shallow water but then to set one so that its about 150% of the depth of the most common water you fish in. If you fish in 20 feet of water most of the time have one set at about 30 feet, maybe a little less. What this does is makes it so you can pretty much always have the maximum amount of your screen giving you useful information. Also, don't be a bit bashful about using range shift downward to follow bottom if you are in an area with a lot of variation in bottom depth. Its a real handy feature.<br /><br />Thom
 

TwoWatt

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

ThomWV. After reading through this thread I have decided on the Furuno LS4100. <br />I posted a new thread looking for recommendations & fell upon this thread. <br />It seem's this will be a great finder for my needs. (small /shallow lakes) <br />I should have it in my hands by next week, so I'll post about my initial experience with it.
 

Philvan

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Thanks again fellers, I am getting mine on tuesday, from the shop, I was bidding on E- Bay but there is no Australian warranty so I will bite the bullet an pay Australian $500 for it!!<br />I get two year warranty this way.Looking forward to getting to know my new fish finder :) <br />Good Fishin to you.<br /> Phil
 

farginicehole

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Do you know how much that is in U.S. dollars, roughly? I paid $200 plus shipping for mine. Yesterday, while out fishing with my wife, I was poking around the screens a little more and realized that mine was set on saltwater! That, along with setting the frequency to 200 kHz and turning the gain down a bit, has it working beautifully. I was also trying to figure out how to turn the backlighting on while the sun was still up, but couldn't. As it started to get dark, the thing just started glowing. Must always be lit? Guess I'll have to get out the manual one of these days. . .
 

Philvan

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Yippee i got it today, pity its dark an cold I have to wait to put it in my boat, it looks cool Oh well I can always read the manual for some entertainment until I get out on the water ! <br />Stay posted.
 

TwoWatt

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

I'm with you Blueline. I am picking mine up Thursday & plan on going fishing Sunday (weathers looking good so far).<br />I had a couple questions. On the LS4100 it has the two round knobs on the sides. Is that where you unhook it from its base? No way I'm leaving this on the boat when the boats not in use. <br />Anyone have a picture they can provide of the transducer & mounting bracket? <br />On a side note, I regret not buying this from Iboats, I seen they sold them, but no listing for the unit + transducer. So I bought it from an authorized online dealer in Ocean Isle Beach, NC (left the name out to avoid "advertising")<br /><br />While I'm here. What is "range scale" is that like a "bottom lock"? This will be my first "real" fishfinder so I have a lot of reading to do when my it comes. I've read Furuno's online manual in PDF, but it's hard to read that way.<br /><br />Thanks everyone for spending my money wisely :p <br /><br /><br />(woohoo. My 100th post, It's only taken 3 years to get here :D )
 

farginicehole

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Yes, the knobs on the sides are to attach it to its mounting bracket. Not sure which transducer you are planning on getting, but I have the transom mounted one. I could take a picture of it for you, but wouldn't be able to post it or e-mail it to you until tomorrow morning. It was pretty easy to mount, and required three holes drilled in the transom. I filled the holes with clear silicone, then filled the threads of the screws with silicone prior to screwing them in. I just followed the directions on the positioning of the transducer and it seems to work great. I'm still getting familiar with the functions, but I believe the range scale is so you can limit the depth scale displayed to maximize your resolution. I think the bottom lock may be so that you can stay focused on the bottom however many feet, even as the depth changes, so you can detect fish hanging down there at or near the bottom. ThomWV, please correct me if I'm wrong!
 

ThomWV

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Yep, the big knobs on the sides hold it in its bracket. I don't leave anything on the boat either. Way to much money invested to offer them up to any petty thief spry enough to jump up into the boat.<br /><br />Let me talk about range scales for a moment, because they are generally not understood at all and they are really important to getting the very most out of your fish finder.<br /><br />The first thing you have to understand is that there are a couple of performance characteristics of your fishfinder/transducer combination that are variable. The two most important of these are the pulse repitition rate and the pulse duration. That is to say the 'ping' rate and how long every ping lasts. <br /><br />In shallower water the rate at which the fish finder (when I say that I mean the combination of display unit and transducer) pings can be very very fast, often at a rate greater than 1,000 per minutes (I think a LS4100 will ping up to 1,500 per minute). It can get away with this because in shallow water it doesn't take very long for the sound wave to leave the transducer, hit bottom, and bounce back up. So because it doesn't take long you can pack a lot of pings into a short period of time. At the same time in shallow water the ping duration has to be very short in order to allow a lot of them to be emitted. That is pretty straight forward.<br /><br />This is very good because the more pings you have the greater sample the fish finder can draw from to decide what to display on the screen. Now I know that is personifying a mechanical device, but cut me some slack here because I'm trying to explain this with the expectation that there are some people reading who know very little about how this works. Anyway, it is desirable to have as many pings as possible going out, but there are limitations.<br /><br />The problem is that when you get into deeper water you need to have a fish finder that pings at a slower rate. It simply takes time for the sound wave to make its journey down and back and the deeper the water the longer it takes. A transducer can not be making an outgoing sound and listening for a returning echo at the same tme so the ping rate has to slow down just so time is available for listening.<br /><br />When a fish finder is required to operate in deeper water it needs to shoot slower, that shold be pretty obvious. The thing is that it costs money to build a fish finder with the capability of a wide range of ping rates or pulse durations. Still, its a needed function for the fish finder to operate across a wide spectrum of depth.<br /><br />So, a way that fish finder makes approach the problem of pulse rates and durations is to divide the possible depths their machine might operate in into ranges. By that I mean that they might establish a range that covers the water column from 0 feet to 30 feet and call that range one. When the fish finder is operating in range one it will shoot at its fastest rate and the pings will be of their shortest duration. Then the maker might define a second range from 31 feet to 200 feet, and use a slower ping rate and longer pings when operating in that range. Finally they might set a third range that was 201 feet to infinity, and when set in that range it would shoot at its slowest rate and have the longest pings.<br /><br />Keep in mind that it is desirable to shoot at the fastest possible rate (with the duration really being driven by the ping rate) to get the most clairity out of your machine but that the depth of the water limits what can and can't be done in terms of speed. <br /><br />So with that as background it might jump out at you that when setting ranges the fish finder maker is stuck with having to live with the requirements of the deep end of the range but apply them to shallower water. What I mean by that is that in the example of 31 feet to 200 feet the machine has no choice but to act like its in 200 feet even though it might only be in 40 feet, which means that the quality of the picture you see when in 40 feet of water simply will not be as good as it could be because the machine is set up to operate as if it were in wate 5 times that deep.<br /><br />OK, with that said it should be pretty clear that more range scales is better. That is point 1.<br /><br />Now onto point 2. <br /><br />Most fish finders have an automatic function in which the fish finder will continue to follow the bottom as you move into progressively deeper water. As you go into deeper water from time to time the machine will jump to its next range scale and when it does the screen will be redrawn to encompass a deeper water column. It might go from having the screen show a maximum depth of 40 feet to a maximum of 100 feet or 250 feet or something like that. Of course as the screen covers a larger column of the water the detail it is able to display decreases. That means that given a choice it is always to your advantage to show as little of the water column on the screen as is necessary to cover the bottom or whatever other display that might be of interest to you. So you need to keep that in mind too. Now, there is another thing, when a fish finder shifts from one range to another it takes it a little bit of time to decide if it is operating in the right range. What the machne's internal logic will do is compare the strength of its strongest return echo with the depth range its set to. If it finds itself receiving echos that are illogically strong it will automatically switch to a lower range scale where stronger returns are expected. The opposite is true too of course. <br /><br />Now this really wouldn't matter very much except for one thing, if you are moving from deeper water into shallower water what you will be left with is a blank screen while the logic circuitry is doing its thing and that may be a blank screen while you are screaming hell-bent for a grounding. It is very undesirable to have a depth finder switch range scales while you are running in shallow water.<br /><br />So, that's the background, in simple terms. In the real world it works out like this. If you can buy a machine which allows you to define your own range scales you will be better off than having a machine where they are factory set and locked. As far as the ping rate and duration go you can't do anything about them (before you guys with new Lowrance machines start screaming I'll address their variable ping rate feature in a minute) because they are locked by the properties of sound in water. <br /><br />Basically what you want to do, if your machine permits it (and all Furunos do) is to set at least one range scale so that you can use it while running in the shallowest water you normally encounter without it flipping scales on you while you are running (which, as you now know blanks out the screen). Say you run out through a creek that has a minimum depth of 4 feet and a maximum depth of 12 feet. I'd set the first range scale to something like 15 feet just so as long as I was running it would always show me bottom and not blank out at any time. If I then move out into open water where I fish pretty often and its something like 30~40 feet deep I would want my second depth rante set to something like 45~50 feet because it will allow as much of the screen as reasonable to be used and once again, it would not blank out while I was most in need of it. This would continue until all the ranges had been set.<br /><br />Now, the next thing. Remember that the repitition rate (PRR)is fixed and is a function of range but if you are able to change the range scales it doesn't change the fact that the rate is fixed. So one of the things you need to keep in mind when setting ranges is that you want to, if possible, stay right at the upper end of the PRR. Normally you can figure out where that is pretty easily. The screen advance rate, how fast the picture marches across the screen, is linked to the repititon rate. You can over ride the advance rate on Furuno machines (and quite a few others too) but in truth it doesn't give you any more information or improve clairity at all - its an illusion but one that traps a lot of guys.<br /><br />Oh, I almost forgot to say something about that variable pulse rate that some of the new Lowrance machines are selling as a special feature. It is not anything special at all, its just marketing hype. What Lowrance has done is purposefully slowed down the pulse rate (remember, you can slow it down all your want, the limitation is on how fast it can ping, not how slow) by 50% and then they give you the ability to bring it back up to where it should have been in the first place - which happens to be exactly where every other fish finder made, including all the other models by Lowrance, is operating anyway.<br /><br />There, did that help any?<br /><br />Thom
 

farginicehole

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Re: Furuno LS4100 ??any good ??

Wow! Thanks for the explanation. So are you a product engineer at Furuno, Thom?
 
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