Getting Frustrated.

[daddycajun117]

Bought my first real boat. It is a 17ft, 94 VIP Fish and ski. With a 115 Johnson V4 Year unknown. Would guess it would be a 94 also. Having trouble planing boat. It seems to take a heck of a lot to get it to plane. With that size motor I should have no problem. So Saturday my dad and I go through the motor. We find every gas hose has zipties holding them on instead of clamps. And the lower unit oil is like sludge. I changed all hose clamps but one. and the lower unit oil.

The Clamp I did not change is impossible to get to without removing the upper carb. Also noticed that the connection at that carb moves, is it supposed to move? And can I remove this carb and not have to resynch them if I don't adjust anything.

The Next problem is the trim. the motor will trim up and down at idle or out of the water, but at any speed it will not trim up. Thinking it is low on fluid. What kind of fluid does it take.

One more problem. The steering is very hard. Lubed and cleaned everything I could Saturday and still have a real hard time steering. Should I just replace the cable?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

steering. disconnect at front of motor. motor should turn freely. is cable still stiff. if so. remove the cable from the tilt tube, and clean tilt tube and cable. regrease and replace. check again. You may have to lift motor to get cable out.

zip ties, they now use a special tie, instead of clamps.

what is the model # of the motor. we have to specify year. have you check spark on all 4 cylinders? have you checked compression?

tilt, have some activate the switch to raise the motor, and you push up, till ti gets all the way up, and lock motor in postion. now refill the fluid. and close. now lower motor all the way down. and back up, lock and refill. do this till it does not take anymore fluid. the cycle U & D several times.

until you have posted model #, spark and compression results. this is about as far as i can go, giving you the best advice i can. the V-4 is almost bullet proof motor.

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

I replaced every fuel line on my V6 and used the tie straps from my local Johhny-Rude dealer.They have a radius type end that is designed for fuel lines.Regular hose clamps can actually get too tight.Remember all the fittings are plastic.
As long as that top carb is not leaking around the fuel line inlet do not worry about it.
If you do not know the motors history a complete carb rebuild is in order.
90% of the time thats the cause of poor performance.
Remember to ALWAYS replace those white plastic washers every time a drain plug is removed.
The model number should be on the port side of the transom bracket.

 

[daddycajun117]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Yes will get the model # tonight. What kind of fluid do I use for the tilt. Just plain Hydraulic fluid???

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Dextron trans or power steering.

 

[daddycajun117]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

OK Here is the model # and info

Model# J115TLC1H
Serial # J5498722

Compression

Drivers side Top 115
Bottom 100

Passenger Top 110
Bottom 110

U have to excuse me I am in the air force and never learned the proper naval terms.

 

[crb478]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

OK Here is the model # and info

Model# J115TLC1H
Serial # J5498722

Compression

Drivers side Top 115
Bottom 100

Passenger Top 110
Bottom 110

U have to excuse me I am in the air force and never learned the proper naval terms.

Your drivers side top and bottom cylinders are a bit far apart. Try to do a decarb and see if all of the numbers come up some and more importantly if they even out more. You may well need to rebuild the carbs, but try the decarb first.

 

[daddycajun117]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

What is a decarb???

 

[daddycajun117]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Does the trim have any thing to do with the boat not planing. It just bogs down and does not want to come out the water.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Compression is fine. +/- 10% is acceptable.

 

[Theoutdoorsman]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Compression is fine. No worries there. But what about the spark? Should jump a 7/16" gap on all four, with a strong blue "zaaaap", using an adjustable spark tester available at your local automotives store. Just judging by your initial post, it sounds as though your running on three cylinders. Could be a coil failing which is a rather inexpensive fix. Check the spark and see what you have there. You have already determined that the compression is fine and you have no real internal issues. If you have spark on all four, it's most likely that the carb's are subject. Another realatively easy fix but a little time consuming. Before removing the carbs, I'd highly recommend an OEM Service Manual available right here at iBoats. Check out the "store" link. Avoid the cheaper Clymer manuals. Stick with the OEM for better information specific to your particular outboard. Good luck!................. ALAN


P.S........ Your model number is indicative of a 1981 Johnson 115hp. If you wish to view exploded parts diagrams and look up part numbers for it, might I suggest the following:

Click here............ http://www.brp.com/en-US/Related.Products/Parts.htm

Now....... Under the "Parts Heading" click on "Visit the site now".

Next...... Click on the green check mark in the box located in the top left hand corner, so as to de-select it, and click on "View Parts Catalogs"

Now....... Click on the "Go" button beside the box, again in the upper left hand corner of your screen, that says "Evinrude". (Johnson owners need to change this to Johnson from the drop down menu first)

Now...... Select the appropriate folders for your year, horsepower, and model number to view the parts lists and exploded diagrams.

 

[daddycajun117]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Cool. I am going to run it tonight to check spark. I might have a week module. But what about the upper carb, should the fuel inlet be loose. It swivels on the hose. It is very hard to get to. Cannot do it without removing the carb. Can I remove the carb without having to synch them again.

 

[Theoutdoorsman]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

In the event that carb removal is necessary, it is likely that carb syncronization will be a must. You can check spark without taking the whole rig to the lake. You can even make your own tester. I'll see if I can find a link to some photo's for you. While your testing spark, remove the plugs and make a visual inspection of their appearance. What do they look like in relation to the others? All the same....... one different? Maybe two different? In regards to the fuel inlet being loose, it's supposed to be snug. Does it leak?


EDIT:

Here's a bit of information on your spark tester, should you decide to make your own. If not, you can simply purchase a tester at the automotive store rather cheap ($10). This information comes courtosy of Joe Reeves who is a very intelligent and well thought of member here at iBoats. You should remove your plugs prior to testing in order to achieve maximum cranking rpm's. DO NOT CHECK FOR SPARK WITH A SCREWDRIVER LIKE YOU WOULD WITH A LAWN MOWER!!! THIS IS NOT THE SAME!!! IT CAN, AND WILL, HURT YOU!!!





(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas the!y could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

your motor is a 1981. 507067 Service Manual Set. compression is good, this is my preference for diagrams, and part #s, you can also order OEM parts directly from there. you have good advice above.

 

[Theoutdoorsman]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Does the trim have any thing to do with the boat not planing. It just bogs down and does not want to come out the water.

Trim has a lot to do with your planing out. When attempting your initial forward thrust (from idle to plane), the motor should be trimmed all the way down (tucked in). Once on plane begin trimming the unit up (out). If your trying to get on plane with the outboard trimmed up (out), your boat will have an incredibly hard time getting out of the water and onto plane. Furthermore, on your initial thrust (assuming your motor is trimmed too far up), your boat will be positioned more vertically and stay there for a very long time and maybe not ever get on plane. Tuck it in, plane it off, and then trim it out. Does this make sense?

What is a decarb???

A "decarb" is a process by which you clean the interns of your outboard and burn away any carbon deposits which might be trapped inside and out of sight. These trapped carbon deposits can lead to internal problems via stuck or broken rings and what not. Although it's highly recommended as an annual maintanance routine, right now, I would put it at the bottom of my "to do" list. The reason I say this is because your compression seems to be average, or even a little better than average, for a 1980 model. Do keep this in mind though. It needs to be done yearly. Let's get you running correctly and then take care of this afterwards. If you are still curious as to the proper method, here's a link to ponder on.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158076

 

[daddycajun117]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Ok Think I got it. Stopped and got a plug tester. Top right plug has no spark. Top left plug has a weak spark. So I guess I need two coils. At least that is out the way.

Now for the carb. They look clean, and the motor idles great. I really hate to remove the top carb and tighten the loose inlet, then have to have them synched. I dunno how to do it, and hate to spend that much money on getting them done when all it needs to be is tightened.

Thanks for all the info. Any more advice is appreciated. I will let ya'll know how it works out for me.

 

[Reggie08]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Synching the carbs is actually very easy to do. It's just a matter of making sure the "butterflies" close completely at the same time. It's really just a matter of loosening one screw, making sure both carbs are closed, taking up any small amount of slack then re-tightening the screw.

But definitely get yourself an OEM/OMC manual.

 

[daddycajun117]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Also Looked at the trim yesterday. Filled moved up and down and filled again. Put some force on the motor while lifting and did not fail. So I guess that is good.

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Before you go spending money on new coils try switching the top coils with the bottom coils to see if the no/weak spark follows the coil or stays at the top cyl's.

You want to be SURE that it is the coils and not the ignition modules or the trigger, there is NO RETURN on electrical parts.

 

[daddycajun117]

Re: Getting Frustrated.

Did not think of that thanks for the info. I will try that.