getting fuel in my oil.... ive read similar threads.. changed pump.. still happening.

[youknowmeasbud]

Re: getting fuel in my oil.... ive read similar threads.. changed pump.. still happen

yea i never actually got it WOT or even near, my temp guage either doesnt work or the engine never actually got warm, im supposing it takes a while longer than 10 min.
so, i have a chance today to work on it.. but its raining.. think i might just order parts today..
so there is no diff between the automotive and marine rochester 2jet rebuild kit? cause i found some cheap ones
also, what sort of kit should i buy for my out drive... at a minimium should i buy a seal kit? or wait to inspect the gears and bearings? i know that i want to replace the bearings anyways, what kit would you buy for a overhaul on an outboard.. i really want to just replace all the old worn out junk in there and call it good.. im still reading about how to adjust my shift cable, found a good video that makes it look real easy, Mercruiser Alpha Shift cable adjustment - YouTube , this could be part of my problem, but i still wanna open it all up, clean it, and start fresh.

 

[thumpar]

Re: getting fuel in my oil.... ive read similar threads.. changed pump.. still happen

The rebuilds kit is the same for all the Rochesters of that type. I got mine at Napa since they are close and will fix it if it is wrong. For the outdrive rebuild you would need all the special tools. They are SPENDY. You would be better off just replacing the drive with an SEI. It would be cheaper.

 

[NHGuy]

Re: getting fuel in my oil.... ive read similar threads.. changed pump.. still happen

Don't buy any drive seal stuff yet. Treat the drive as an assembly that you can split for the water impeller. Check the gear oil for condition, that's your best start point. Later you may check for seal leaks with an air pressure rig.
Drive bearing repair is complex, like rear end work in trucks. It requires some special tools that cause it to not be cost effective for most folks. But if you find that your upper seal is bad, that's do able. I did mine with a replacement input yoke which has the surface on it for the seal to contact. I wish I had just listened to folks on here though. I could have placed a new seal at a different depth and saved a lot of money and time. Or I could have done a speedi sleeve on there too.

As far as your shifting, you probably need the lower shift cable. Here's why, when you shift out of gear the drive won't let the gears disengage until they are unloaded. And they don't unload til a cutout switch that's in the shift linkage momentarily stops the ignition. Once the gears slip into neutral, the load on the shift cutout goes away and the cutout switch returns the ignition to run position. This requires a good cable, correctly adjusted. It's common to need it when we hear of boats grinding in and out of gear.
If it grinds going into gear "wet" and shifts ok out of the water it's either the cable, the adjustment, failing to quickly click it into gear, or your idle could be too high. Idle should be nice and low. Dying as you go into forward can be the cutout activating if your cable is bad.
You can disconnect the lower cable at the shift plate and check how it moves. Push on the end to feel how it goes into forward. Pull for reverse. It must feel smooth and free. Any "catching" or friction is grounds for replacement.
You have to adjust it by the book method too or it will give you fits.
Check your compression and check your carb to figure out why you are getting gas in the oil. Hopefully it's the carb dumping fuel, that's an easier fix than ring failure.