Wee Hooker
Chief Petty Officer
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2005
- Messages
- 618
Anybody trailering a boat knows that their rig launch's and hauls best with the water at a certain depth as compared to their boat/bunks/rollers. Put the trailer too deep and it floats on crooked and /or push?s off hard/slow. Too shallow and it may bottom out on launch or come on hard/slow. Find the sweet spot and everything gets predictable and easy. My new 16' Mirrocraft Outfitter on a factory bunk trailer is no exception. With this boat, a water level 2? shy of the bunk tips is about perfect. Problem is that it's often to see how deep I am through the truck window/tailgate and / or boat. Lots of neck cramming and or "get out and look" was the norm at the ramp. Here's how I fixed it;
First, I mounted a 12V LED on top of my guide on where I could see it well from the drivers seat. ( Salvaged from a broken tail light actually.) Then I mounted a float type bilge switch on the trailer frame at a position / heigh so that it would kick in as the water depth got "just right" for a launch. Power was tapped from the directional circuit at the tail light and brought to the LED. ( I used the blinker circuit so I could shut it off and also to assure that stready glare wasn?t an issue on the LED on bright days. )The other lead of the LED was wired to the input on the bilge switch. The other side of the bilge switch was wired to the frame for ground. (i.e It?s all wired in series.) So now when I back in, the bilge switch sets activates a blinking LED at eye level as soon as I get to the sweet spot. Simple fix and I highly recommend it!
hth
First, I mounted a 12V LED on top of my guide on where I could see it well from the drivers seat. ( Salvaged from a broken tail light actually.) Then I mounted a float type bilge switch on the trailer frame at a position / heigh so that it would kick in as the water depth got "just right" for a launch. Power was tapped from the directional circuit at the tail light and brought to the LED. ( I used the blinker circuit so I could shut it off and also to assure that stready glare wasn?t an issue on the LED on bright days. )The other lead of the LED was wired to the input on the bilge switch. The other side of the bilge switch was wired to the frame for ground. (i.e It?s all wired in series.) So now when I back in, the bilge switch sets activates a blinking LED at eye level as soon as I get to the sweet spot. Simple fix and I highly recommend it!


hth