Gimbal bearing time.

[Shadow91]

Okay, so I bought this boat about 2 months ago now and has been great. But the entire time ive had it ive had a groaning noise, similar to a bad wheel bearing, that has just gotten worse and worse. Looking into what it might be, ive came to the conclusion that the gimbal bearing is most likely shot. Ive done my fair amount of research and am looking at replacing all the bellows, the bearing and the lower shift cable.

Before i dive into this, any tips or tricks you would recommend? Do you recommend OEM mercruiser over a sierra part?

Right now i have in my cart,
Sierra Marine 18-8206-1
Sierra Marine 18-2190 Lower shift cable
Mercury Bellows adhesive
Hinge pin tool 91-78310

this is all going in a 1994 Alpha one (i think gen 2) with a 3.0 on it.
Engine Serial #0F071159
Transom Serial # 0F082492
Drive Serial # 0F109437

 

[Lewis1111]

You will also require the shift shaft tool to remove the old cable...

http://catalog.seastarsolutions.com/Items/Details/6549

Sounds like you got a pretty good handle on everything else. Bring your patience and I would allot a full day for all this work or a good Saturday/Sunday if this is your first time.

 

[AShipShow]

You can also use a 5/8" spark plug socket for the shift cable..

I would also recommend an engine alignment tool to align the new bearing to the coupler and check your alignment.

 

[Bondo]

You can also use a 5/8" spark plug socket for the shift cable..

I would also recommend an engine alignment tool to align the new bearing to the coupler and check your alignment.

Huh,..??
Last shift cable I did, I used a plain ole 9/16" deep socket, as the little white piece of plastic liner, unscrews from the brass fittin',.....

Hinge pin tool 91-78310

I use a plain ole 1/2" allen key for the hinge pins, which are 1/2" 12 point,.....

 

[AShipShow]

Huh,..??
Last shift cable I did, I used a plain ole 9/16" deep socket, as the little white piece of plastic liner, unscrews from the brass fittin',.....



I use a plain ole 1/2" allen key for the hinge pins, which are 1/2" 12 point,.....

Oops, my bad, 9/16" is correct, not 5/8"... Need more coffee!! lol
The spark plug socket works without removing the plastic liner which is nice, but as you mentioned, either way works.

 

[Shadow91]

As far as the alignment tool, how necessary is it? Sucks spending the cash on a tool ill only use once (hopefully)

And is there any reason the cheap $20 ebay special one wont do the same job as the name branded one?

Also, i keep seeing various different transom kits from Seirra, would anyone be able to direct me to a site that would allow me to verify i have the right parts before ordering?

And yeah, i was just planning on taking it to the shop (professional tech by trade) to do it. Had already heard of using a spark plug socket to do the shift cable, but nice knowing that it separates in case i need to for whatever reason.

 

[harringtondav]

Huh,..??
Last shift cable I did, I used a plain ole 9/16" deep socket, as the little white piece of plastic liner, unscrews from the brass fittin',.....



I use a plain ole 1/2" allen key for the hinge pins, which are 1/2" 12 point,.....

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm: I didn't know about the white liner screwing out, and stripped the brass fitting flats with the split 'special' socket when it opened up around the split. Someone in Fond Du Lac must've had a bad day in 1996, 'cause that shift cable fitting was tight-tight. Ended up moving the bell hsg. over to my drill press to drill it out. Live and learn. Worst part was the cable was fine. I had the engine out, bellows off for deep maintenance and said 'what the heck, easier now than later'. Mistake.

 

[Oshkosh1]

As far as the alignment tool, how necessary is it?

Only necessary if you want to check the alignment...

I know...A lot of coin for a once per year or two check but you can loan it out to others so it won't just be laying around. I'd loan you mine if you were close.

 

[Shadow91]

Only necessary if you want to check the alignment...

I know...A lot of coin for a once per year or two check but you can loan it out to others so it won't just be laying around. I'd loan you mine if you were close.

Yeah ive been doing some readings and it looks like the general consensus is to check alignment once a year as well. Just doing this right now on a small budget and trying to make it all work.

anyone in the Seattle area have an alignment tool i could borrow? and/or the bearing installer if you have one haha

 

[AShipShow]

I have an Ebay version... works great. I just used a cheap pair of digital calipers to verify the part was accurate when I got it.

 

[harringtondav]

A three jaw slide hammer will eventually get the brg. out. Rigging up a plate across the bell hsg. with a hole to pass a threaded rod into your puller assy is better. A hard washer with a nut on top will pull the rod and puller assy out with the bearing. Until recently I used a generic seal driver head, large enough to cover at least the inner race, better to cover more of the bearing, and hammer it in with a handle fitted to the driver head. Mind the instructions that come with the bearing, especially if you buy a greasable brg. The lube holes must line up. Grease the tolerance ring and bearing bore, and start it square, and keep it square. If it cocks, you'll wish you were John Henry. Drive it to bottom. Check how much bore is showing before you pull the old one so you know where bottom is.

Also Merc OEM and Sierra are the same Link Belt bearing. Merc. doesn't make bearings. Merc just makes more $$ on their version.

Good luck with the alignment tool.

 

[JoLin]

I use the cheap ebay alignment tool, too. Works fine. I check the alignment every season when I r & r the outdrives.

My .02

 

[thumpar]

A three jaw slide hammer will eventually get the brg. out. Rigging up a plate across the bell hsg. with a hole to pass a threaded rod into your puller assy is better. A hard washer with a nut on top will pull the rod and puller assy out with the bearing. Until recently I used a generic seal driver head, large enough to cover at least the inner race, better to cover more of the bearing, and hammer it in with a handle fitted to the driver head. Mind the instructions that come with the bearing, especially if you buy a greasable brg. The lube holes must line up. Grease the tolerance ring and bearing bore, and start it square, and keep it square. If it cocks, you'll wish you were John Henry. Drive it to bottom. Check how much bore is showing before you pull the old one so you know where bottom is.

Also Merc OEM and Sierra are the same Link Belt bearing. Merc. doesn't make bearings. Merc just makes more $$ on their version.

Good luck with the alignment tool.

I have removed 3 with a 3 jaw puller. Each time was 2-3 easy whacks and it was out. It took longer to take the tool out of the box than to remove the bearing.

 

[harringtondav]

I have removed 3 with a 3 jaw puller. Each time was 2-3 easy whacks and it was out. It took longer to take the tool out of the box than to remove the bearing.

I've heard this often. Mine, and others I've worked on have always been a knock down drag out. Maybe my wimpy arm, or a wimpy slide hammer slide weight, or maybe virgin or low limit tolerance bores. I hope I've changed out my last one. I've also heard others talk of 'tapping them right in". Karma has never been on my side with gimbal bearings.

 

[Shadow91]

Well ended up just buying a complete installer, puller and alignment tool for the bearing. Was the best overall option at $140..

Now then, i went to purchase the Sierra kit and am now not sure which kit to actually get
18-8206-1 Greaseable bearing
18-8218 non greaseable bearing.

Whats the better option? And for my curiosity, why?

 

[JoLin]

You may get a debate. IMO, a lubed-for-life bearing is fine until its life ends. A greasable bearing lubed annually may last longer than you do.

My .02

 

[harringtondav]

Well ended up just buying a complete installer, puller and alignment tool for the bearing. Was the best overall option at $140..

Now then, i went to purchase the Sierra kit and am now not sure which kit to actually get
18-8206-1 Greaseable bearing
18-8218 non greaseable bearing.

Whats the better option? And for my curiosity, why?

I believe Merc. has moved to only sealed/permanently greased gimbal brgs. Advantages include longer survival under maintenance neglect and maybe a higher survival rate in a wet driveshaft bellows, and the convenience of throwing away your grease gun. Sierra has followed, but maintains the greaseable version for old schoolers like me.

The choice is yours. I like to pump out enough of the old grease to inspect it, and know it's fully packed before I button it back up.

 

[thumpar]

If yours has the grease hole plugged go with a sealed bearing. If not you can pick either but I would go with greasable if you will keep up on it.

 

[fishinrado]

I just posted on where to get the proper tools for free to remove the bearing.
And pics of the alignment and install tools.
Cant imagine doing the job without the proper equipment and fighting to get things out and put them back in for $140.
At least it wasn't worth my time to do so.
The kit makes it a breeze as well as the free loner tools.

 

[Shadow91]

I just posted on where to get the proper tools for free to remove the bearing.
And pics of the alignment and install tools.
Cant imagine doing the job without the proper equipment and fighting to get things out and put them back in for $140.
At least it wasn't worth my time to do so.
The kit makes it a breeze as well as the free loner tools.

Yeah I just ordered the puller, installer and alignment tool. I finally just came to the decision that I would rather the job go as smoothly as possible and just have all the right equipment. Plus being a tech, im a tool ***** haha.

I scrolled through some of your post and didnt see any post about free loaner tools, but maybe i missed it? And go figure you tell me this after i already bought the tools. oh well, at least i have them now.

Still trying to decide if I want a greaseable or non greaseable bearing. Ive read up a bunch on them now and its a pretty even split one way or another. Im pretty good at doing all my own maintenance and definitely keep up on it. My livelihood is funded by people that dont on their cars, so i know first hand how expensive neglected maintenance can get. I guess i need to see if i still have the grease hole or if its plugged already.