I very lightly sanded the hull with 220 grit then i lightly hit it with a red 3M scuff pad
In preperation the the next coat of paint
I knocked a few nibs also
The hull still has a very light sheen to it
Is this good enough for the next coat of paint or do i have to get the paint completly flat and with no shine what so ever?
Also the paint is very hard already !!
The shiny areas are the weakest links, but you dont have to go crazy about it, just scuff it everywhere, but I would overdo the vertical sections, cuz you could easily drape or run vertical, under sanded areas....
I accidently sanded through the paint in 2 spots (hard corners) is the rustoleum going to lift the edge of where i sanded through on the next coat of paint?
I got the 3rd coat of paint on Looks like a sheet of glass I only thinned the paint 10% this time with acetone and used my "special gun" with a 2.2 tip
For the new deck to prep it to paint
What should i do im going to give it a light sanding to flatten out the csm
Then should i prime it with rustoleum primer and hardner then sand it?
Im going to paint it with totalboat non slip deck paint
Im getting the hull ready for the cap now
But there was 1"wide foam tape all around the hull so when the cap goes on it goes over the foam tape and gets screwed together
My foam was so badly deterorated that i have no idea how thick of foam tape i should buy
Anyone have any idea????
Maybe 3/16"thick??
have you tried sitting the cap on and measuring the gap? That would at least give you direction. I haven't heard of foam tape around the parting line before.
Yes there was foam where the cap overlaps the hull
To put the cap on and lift it back off is going to be very hard as i have to gather up enough people to put the cap on
I really only have one chance to get the cap on
What about buying a couple different thicknesses to have on hand, then when your crew is there put it on for a quick fit. Then raise it up slide some boards between the hull and cap. Then you could put on the correct thickness and put the cap on.
Today is raining so i cant really put the cap on But i did put the hand railings on now because its going to be very hard to reach after the cap is in place I also gelcoated underneath the bowrider area for some extra water protection And i also tabbed in a "standoff" made of fiberglass to mount the bildge pump on I didnt like the idea of drilling into my new plywood deck to mount the bildge pump To me this seemed like a better solution
Having just put my cap back on, I can say you'll thank yourself later for everything you do now while the cap is off. I missed fixing a few things before putting the cap on and now my arms are all scraped up by working through the access portals.