Golden Jubilee Evi Sportwin 10 - Should I convert?

Crosbyman

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where would you put nylon inserts ???
just mount the plate over the bypass cover using tad longer bolts as you see fit.

the pump is reverse bolted with bolt head between the bypass cover and the plate with the threads sticking out the 2 mounting hole locations.

If one bolt head interferes with the cover plate just off-set pumps plate location so you can have one bolt installed on the outer edge of the plate
(not in the bypass cover cavity)

see post#6 "pump on plate" off-set a bit

install the gasket on the plate & bolt everything up with small star washers to secure the nuts on the face of the pump.

make certain the bypass cover plate's drilled out "pulse hole" and plate pulse hole line up (not overly critical)
 

LaqueRatt

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Fuel pump installed. Now on to the ignition system.
 

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Crosbyman

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nice job! you can reorient the fuel pump cover 90 degrees down to shorted the hose and free up some space

up to you
 

racerone

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I believe you may find an arrow ( factory pump ) that must point up.-----If this is a pump from amazon ( hooflungdung ) then i do not know.
 

LaqueRatt

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Thanks for the tip and I'm sure you're right. I've seen that before. Pretty sure no arrow on this one. Think it's actually hongkongphooey brand. Same as last one I bought which worked fine. Sure hope it's on right. Guess I'll know if no gas comes out.
 

LaqueRatt

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Done with the ignition. Got really good spark. As long as the pump does what it should she should start.
 

LaqueRatt

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Well she started up on the 4th pull. Not too bad. Seemed to run OK at first, then started sneezing. Tried to adj it out, but ran out of room on the knob. Took the linkage off so could adjust the actual jet and now it just doesn't want to idle no matter what and it seems down on power. After a bit of fiddling she wouldn't start anymore, even though it had been coming to life with one easy tug. Always something.

Pulled the plugs, fouled. Cleaned them up, went to put them back in and I'll be damned if the top plug hole isn't stripped out! Never had this happen before and no, I didn't use an impact to reinstall the plug. I know they make something called a helicoil for this, but like I said I've never had to deal with it. Any tips would be appreciated. Also, guess I can't do this without pulling the part (is it the head?) that the plug goes in right?
 

Crosbyman

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you will need to pull the cyl head and install a helicoil using the proper kit. use full metal inserts not the spring looking type. use some red lock-tite

kit comes with a proper size drill tap and inserts

did it on a 7.5 and all good.
 

LaqueRatt

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Is that easier and cheaper than replacing the head? Guess I'm going to need a new gasket if I pull the head? If I want to replace the head must it come off a similar vintage 10HP?
 

racerone

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The helicoil can be installed without removing the cylinder head.----Most small engine shops ( if you still have one ) can do this simple job.
 
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Crosbyman

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The helicoil can be installed without removing the cylinder head.----Most small engine shops ( if you still have one ) can do this simple job.
surely yet $$$$ on this oldy for an hour's labor ($100-125) OP could by a gasket and helicoil kit. as a first time job . keeping shavings out of the cyl would require grease and practice.
 

JimS123

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There is nothing wrong with the pressurized fuel tank concept.
I was going to say that ^^^^ was the correct answer. But since I see it is already too late I'll say it anyway.

Pressurized thanks are readily available. EBay, OB meets, etc. I have 4 of them and 2 I got out of the garbage. For 20 bucks you can buy a rebuild kit with gaskets and seals and it will perform like the original. I would venture to say that once you add the pump, hoses and new disconnect fittings it will cost more.

Regardless, this is an iconic motor and is worth more in its unmolested form. The Golden Jubilee is worth more than most other years.

1746141976492.jpeg
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LaqueRatt

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One time I tapped out an oil pan on a Kawasaki when the plug stripped out. I used grease to catch the shavings. Guess this would be kind of like that? Think I'd rather remove the head if it's just a few bolts. Can I reuse the gasket?

I looked for a pressure tank and found only one and I'd have had to buy another motor to get it. Figure even if I got one cheap, I'd still need a hose kit which must be what? $75 or more these days? I hated to convert it, but figure it would be easy enough to convert it back. That sure is a nice 18 Jim. Yours? Fastwin, isn't it?
 

JimS123

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One time I tapped out an oil pan on a Kawasaki when the plug stripped out. I used grease to catch the shavings. Guess this would be kind of like that? Think I'd rather remove the head if it's just a few bolts. Can I reuse the gasket?

I looked for a pressure tank and found only one and I'd have had to buy another motor to get it. Figure even if I got one cheap, I'd still need a hose kit which must be what? $75 or more these days? I hated to convert it, but figure it would be easy enough to convert it back. That sure is a nice 18 Jim. Yours? Fastwin, isn't it?
I googled it yesterday and found one for 50 bucks. I know Laing's Outboards has a whole stack of used tanks, but I don't know what he charges. The tank rebuild kit is 20 bucks. Hose is about 4 bucks a foot.

Yes, it's a '59 Fastwin. I got it about 15 years ago, and it came with both the regular and suitcase tanks. $20 at a garage sale for all 3 parts.
 

LaqueRatt

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If it was larger and intended to hang onto it, I'd do it the correct way. A tank though very well may leak, need paint, maybe need treating inside. I'd need more than a few feet of hose, would need the bulb, some fittings. It's just a hella lot easier to use the single line tank I already got. So anyhow what do I need to do to pull that head? Anything special? Just R&R, helicoil, reuse gasket?
 

Crosbyman

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carefully unscrew the bolts (don't break any !!)
if to stuck try some heat on the bolt head and wd40 to seep in the bolt head...
a sharp knife blade between the head and frame should release it..

scrape clean the cyl head and engine block . check the water jackets for crud and clean them out.

it may be advisable to check the new or helicoiled head for flatness . If not circle 8 it on 150 grit paper over a plate glass or large ceramic tile till it become shiny all over.
install new gasket

bolt down the head to bolt specks. after a run recheck torque on cyl head bolts
 

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LaqueRatt

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Thanks for the diagram. It'll come in handy if I end up pulling the head. Current thinking is that would really be asking for more trouble. I see 10 bolts. Bet at least one would snap after all these years.

I ran across a guy, actually he seems to be pretty good with this kind of stuff who says to do it this way:

Guess it's worth a shot. Even if end up doing a helicoil fix, think I'd be better off to not pulling the head. Difficulty level: 2 beers.
 

racerone

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I have the kit to repair this with a helicoil.----No need to remove the head at all.---10 minutes and done !!
 
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