got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

Ranger 330V

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
242
Re: got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

thats what I'm about to do..we had Bible study tonight and I'm at the shop now, I'm going to mark the flywheel here in a little bit and I'll post my results.
 

Ranger 330V

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
242
Re: got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

okay, I'm confused...I just did the timing gun, 1 and 3 are firing at the same place on the flywheel, 2 and 4 are firing at the same place on the flywheel, which actually makes sense to me. Reason being is the timber base I pulled off the engine has 2 metal strips in it...that would make me think that each time the magnet passes if would fire twice for each revolution. The new CDI timer base I got is the same way. They had previously sent me the wrong one..a newer one that had 4 metal strips on the inside..that would make more sense to me as it would fire on 90 degree intervals to each cylinder. The number on my original is 581812 as far as I can tell the number on the new CDI unit is 133-3376....are these right?? I was told by the parts guy that it was. I also looked it up and it was right....so why am I firing 180 degrees apart like I am?? This confusing me...I figured it should be firing on 90 degree intervals which would make 1 revolution. I had a PERCTLY steady light on all cylinders and it did not move at all. Can someone shed some light on this?? I'm at a loss...thanks again!!
 

mikesea

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
1,830
Re: got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

are you positive somewhere along the yrs someone didnt screw up the order for the smaller primary coil wires,if your going by the color on the wire,it could be wrong,not uncommon to have 2 orange blue striped and a plain orange,then you hopethey plugged it in the right boot slot.Ive seen it happen,also be sure your ingnition switch is screwing up.it could be throwing intermittent ground to kill circut,disconnect the black yel lead from the powerpack,BUT if the engine starts,you have no kill other than choke
 

Ranger 330V

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
242
Re: got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

The only thing that is not new are the coils and the wiring harness...could there be anything in the wiring harness that would cause this?? Everything else is new...powerpacks, timing base, stator, rectifier...all new. The left bank is firing at the same time and the right bank is firing at the same time, they are perfectly 180 degrees apart.
 

Ranger 330V

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
242
Re: got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

didn't see the part about the kill switch, the engine will run...just back fire and sputter really bad unless you advance the timing then it tries to run away.
 

Ranger 330V

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
242
Re: got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

EUREKA!! okay, Mike, you were right...on the left bank the two wires had been crossed...they were right with the old equip. but wrong when I put the new stuff on...I think...lol, stupid stuff always seems to happen to me, she ran beautifully for about 15 minutes...could leave my hand on the heads for a good time...well really didn't have to take my hands off, although the water I was using was very cold and its in the 40's outside here...and the top was off the engine, she was peeing great. I will redo all that soon. Here is the new problem. When I start it it runs at a high rpm on all four, when I try to kill it will keep running on the left bank. I know my timing is high right now because I don't ahve the linkage hooked up and the timer base I got from CDI hits a bolt on the crank seal...which stops any further retardation of the timing. Unless you actually push the wires over the bolt, has anyone seen this before? The timer base is the 133-3376 on a 1978 140hp johnson...should be right. I think once I get that worked out she'll calm down and idle low like she should. Now what about the not dieing part?? Do I need a new kill switch?? Is there something in the harness that will not allow the left bank to die?? I had to choke it to kill it. THANK YOU ALL for your help, I've learned alot from this...and will be learning more seems like...lol. We are now at least a little closer to getting to replace the 1150. I must have had some other troubles before because I tried switching plug wires with the old equip and it backfired worse. Now if I can only get her to die and get the timer base to push past that bolt...I can't hook the timer shaft up to the throttle linkage because of this problem. Thanks again!
 

peacekeeper6

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
Messages
765
Re: got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

EUREKA!! okay, Mike, you were right...on the left bank the two wires had been crossed...they were right with the old equip. but wrong when I put the new stuff on...I think...lol, stupid stuff always seems to happen to me, she ran beautifully for about 15 minutes...could leave my hand on the heads for a good time...well really didn't have to take my hands off, although the water I was using was very cold and its in the 40's outside here...and the top was off the engine, she was peeing great. I will redo all that soon. Here is the new problem. When I start it it runs at a high rpm on all four, when I try to kill it will keep running on the left bank. I know my timing is high right now because I don't ahve the linkage hooked up and the timer base I got from CDI hits a bolt on the crank seal...which stops any further retardation of the timing. Unless you actually push the wires over the bolt, has anyone seen this before? The timer base is the 133-3376 on a 1978 140hp johnson...should be right. I think once I get that worked out she'll calm down and idle low like she should. Now what about the not dieing part?? Do I need a new kill switch?? Is there something in the harness that will not allow the left bank to die?? I had to choke it to kill it. THANK YOU ALL for your help, I've learned alot from this...and will be learning more seems like...lol. We are now at least a little closer to getting to replace the 1150. I must have had some other troubles before because I tried switching plug wires with the old equip and it backfired worse. Now if I can only get her to die and get the timer base to push past that bolt...I can't hook the timer shaft up to the throttle linkage because of this problem. Thanks again!



the two sets of kill wires under the cdi pack. sounds like one is not hooked up. same thing happened to me. find the black/yellow and make sure both sides are hooked up. should kill it now.
 

Ranger 330V

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
242
Re: got her all rewired, and now she runs, but backfires and dies

okay, got that fixed and everything zipped and tied up...looks nice and she runs nice. Got a new joint kit from BRP and will link and sync today after school. Ran for about 20 minutes last night on muffs and both heads stayed cool enough I could put my hand on each of them for about 5-10 seconds. Where can you get the temp sticks at?? Haven't checked auto parts stores yet, figure you can get them there. Water pump is pumping very well and thermostats are opening and closing right as far as I can tell. Two questions...has anyone ever had to modify where the wires come out? I had to cut into the wire brace that come out of the side so the wires would clear the bolt that goes into the crank seal?? Mine would drag on it so it wouldn't idle down. I'll try to get a pic of what I'm talking about, the modification didn't hurt anything just raised the wires up to clear the bolt head. Next question, between the lower unit and midsection I have alot of water coming out around it...water out of exhaust through prop and peeing very well, should I have water seeping out around the that area? I know there are some drains there but there seems to be alot of water coming from there. My merc wouldn't seep water between the two...just out of the ports and prop...could my seals in my water pump be leaking?? could I have to much pressure from the muffs?? I'm going to rebuild the water pump and thermos this winter...but its staying cool and peeing well..just wondering if this is normal?? All the water...I'll post pics later today.
 
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