Help removing outboard tub

molo_30

Seaman
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
HI guys, thanks for the great forum, lots of great info here.

I am replacing a transom in a Haines V17C and have cut the gunnels as shown in the pic. What I need help with is the outboard well is stuck to the inner wall on the transom and I cannot lift the top of the boat off out of the way.

Any ideas on how to get it to come off?

Also I have read that people are using epoxy on repairs, I was told to use Polyester, can I use micro-balloons with Polyester?

Can I seal up the ply with polyester resin before glassing?
 

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Woodonglass

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Re: Help removing outboard tub

Your splashwell is glued to the hull. A sawzall with a long blade and or a long flat bar with a sharpened edge to use a long chisel. Bang it it will break loose. Your boat is made out of Polyeser Resin. I would use it for your repairs. You can use cabosil to thicken it. Most definetly you should seal the ply with the resin before applying the fiberglass mat.
 

molo_30

Seaman
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
Help removing floor and inner transom

Help removing floor and inner transom

Thanks Woodonglass. Got it off now.

I have attached some pictures, the transom is rotten in the center near where the engine was mounted. The floor has a few soft spots so that needs to come up. Up in the nose is the storage area with a soft floor also.

As for removing the inner face of the transom, the sides of the boat have these box structures and I was wondering how I need to deal with those to get at the transom and floor.

Any ideas or tips would be appreciated.

Molo
 

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Woodonglass

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Re: Help removing floor and inner transom

Re: Help removing floor and inner transom

Again, the sawzall, is going to be the tool of choice. I suspect the boxes you are referring to will be foam filled. You will also need a 4 1/2" grinder to grind the fiber glass edges left over from the sawzall. Take measurements so you can put everything back like it was. You will nee to remove ALL of the Deck material to get to all of the stringers and cross members below. Your boat has quite a structure to it with a lot of below deck storage which make things a bit more complicated but can be done. Jus t take good measusrements and go slow and document everything you do.
 

molo_30

Seaman
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
Re: Help removing floor and inner transom

Re: Help removing floor and inner transom

Thanks for the heads up. Finally opened everything up and heres what I found.

The stringers are rotten to about half way so I will splice them in. I am going to make the transom level across the back as I don't need the splash well with a pod.

What I am not sure of is once I remove the stringers and glass, then replace the stringers, how do you get the glass to mold around the top of the stringers with no air gaps? I did read someone used a 3M spray to hold the glass in place until the resin was added. I just think that the top of the stringer would need to be wide and rounded so the glass will follow it.

I understand that using microballoons to thicken up the resin for the base of the stringer and make a fillet to reduce the sharpness of the join to get the glass to meet the hull. Does this part sound correct?
 

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Woodonglass

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Re: Help removing floor and inner transom

Re: Help removing floor and inner transom

You need to be aware that the transom needs to be built EXACTLY the way it was. They are designed to accomodate the motors shaft length. If you change the height of the transom then it will NOT be correct for the motor. I would STONGLY advice you NOT to mess with the design of your boat, especially in the transom area. As for your stringers, again, I would NOT advice you to scab in Half a stinger from top to bottom. You can do it length wise if you "Sister" in pieces on the sides, but it is NOT a good sound practice to scab in wood, top to bottom. As for laying the glass you should round the edges of the stringers to make it easier for the glass to conform to the wood. If your wood is only 3/4 to 1" thick then I would recomend using a lighter weight of mat and using mulitple layers to build your strength. 3 to 4 layers of 4 oz mat should be all you need and it will lay up nicely on your stringers with no air bubbles. Get some GOOD thick rubber gloves and you can use your hands to help smooth it all out.
 

molo_30

Seaman
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
Re: Help removing outboard tub

Thanks for the info, I will replace the whole stringer to be safe.

The transom will be fitted with a pod so I can adjust the motor height on that.

The old stringers look like 2 laminated pieces of 3/4" ply, does this sound right?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Help removing outboard tub

Yep laminated ply is the way to go. POD??? Could you explain please.
 

molo_30

Seaman
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Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
Re: Help removing outboard tub

Have a look HERE

This way I can reclaim some fishing room in the back after the seats are gone.
 
Joined
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Re: Help removing outboard tub

Molo,

Nice job on the tear out so far. Since you are installing an engine jackplate/mount, then you can level off the top of the transom as you want to. I know this is after the fact, but you should have cut your splashwell horizintally along the bottom the gunwale. That way you don't loose too much strength of the cap in the rear of the boat. Repairing those vertical cuts through the gunwale are going to be tricky. Make sure you measure carefully so that the cut gap is maintained when you repair or the cap will not go back on. Also you will have to add a significant amount of glass at those cut lines to maintain the cap strength. Good luck and keep the pics coming.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Help removing outboard tub

Ok I gotcha Now. Another thing to think about would be a bow mounted fuel tank to counter weight the extension of the motor off the back.
 

molo_30

Seaman
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
Re: Help removing outboard tub

Been a bit of a break for me. Finally got most of the transom out. Will finish sanding it all back tomorrow once my arms stop itching....

Found more rotten material up the front, will replace that but will leave the floor in the storage compartments as is. Might just put some hard plastic on the floor to support the EPIRB, jackets ect as not really weight bearing.

All the stringers are stuffed and need to be replaced. That will come once the transom is installed.

100_1629.jpgPresentation1.jpg
 

molo_30

Seaman
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Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
Re: Help removing outboard tub

I forgot to ask about the resin to be used.

I have read a lot of material that says Poly resin layers need to be layed up whilst the previous layer is sticky. Epoxy is a bit more forgiving.

Can anyone let me know if you can lay epoxy resin onto poly?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Help removing outboard tub

Yep, Epoxy sticks to almost anything. Poly.....Not so Much!!!!
 

molo_30

Seaman
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Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
Re: Help removing outboard tub

So should I use epoxy or Poly?

I have sanded all the areas ready to go now.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Help removing outboard tub

Your boat is Made out of Poly. I would stick with it. Since you are going with a POD you might want to consider installing some transom braces that will attach to the stringers. POD's place a LOT of added stress on the transom and the braces would greatly aid in reducing this stress. www.uscomposites.com 435 resin would be a great choice. 5 gals to start. Also start with 10 yds of 1.5 oz CSM and 10 yds of 1708 biax mat.
 

molo_30

Seaman
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
56
Re: Help removing outboard tub

Finally got a chance to make some progress on the transom. I made up a cardboard template from a fridge box and copied it onto the ply.

I cut the 2 layers out, both being 3/4" ply and laminated them together with the poly resin and let set overnight.

In the pics you can see the coating of poly I gave the whole thing for waterproofing. I have a couple of questions though:

1. The cabosil I will use to bed the ply into the transom is coming out with little clumps in it. Is there any way to remove these before adding to the resin?

2. I have existing holes in the transom from where the motor mounted, what is the best way to block off the holes on the outside so I can fill the inside with resin?

3. I am removing the splashwell and fitting a pod, the new transom ply will go straight across (not dipping down like it used to), what is the best way to fill in the rear of the transom so it is all flush? (By the looks I have about 4-5mm to fill)

Thanks for your advice.100_1650.JPG100_1651.JPG
 
Joined
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Messages
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Re: Help removing outboard tub

Molo,

Your transom looks good. A couple of questions though. Did you put any glass between your plys before gluing with the resin? Or did you just use plain resin. Poly resin by itself will not hold very well without a layer of CSM. If your are using epoxy resin resin then your okay. Same goes for installing the transom to the outer skin. If you are using poly resin then use two layers of CSM (soaked with resin) between the wood and the fiberglass skin. If you are using epoxy then using a thickened mix with cabosil will be fine.

The cabosil should break up easy when mixing with the resin. You can use a thicken resin mix to fill the gap around your transom after it is installed. Create an even filet around the edge and then totally glass over the transom with a couple of layers of 1708. Extend the 1708 out onto the hull sides and bottom 10"-12". The holes in the outer skin can be filled with a thicken resin mix also but I suggest you thicken with microspheres instead of cabosil because it will be easier to sand the final product. To restore the outside top of the transom to match the remaining skin you have to build it up with glass until it's all even. You will have to do filling, fairing and sanding to get it all to perfectly match and even. How are you going to finish the outer skin? Paint or gel coat?

Another question is are you planning on installing some knee braces from the transom to the stringers or hull bottom to help distribute the load from the transom bracket? Typically when you convert from the transom mount to a transom bracket it is a good idea to re-enforce the transom from the inside in some way.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Messages
25,929
Re: Help removing outboard tub

Your boat is Made out of Poly. I would stick with it. Since you are going with a POD you might want to consider installing some transom braces that will attach to the stringers. POD's place a LOT of added stress on the transom and the braces would greatly aid in reducing this stress. www.uscomposites.com 435 resin would be a great choice. 5 gals to start. Also start with 10 yds of 1.5 oz CSM and 10 yds of 1708 biax mat.

As I stated before, I totally agree with Greg, you NEED to add some additional bracing. And it is IMPERATIVE that you use CSM when laminating your transom pieces using Poly resin.
 
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